multi meter advice

[Dunckel]

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 

[slidebabyslide]

I have one of this, i got it for way more, i like it.http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/esi585k.html

 

[jetjock]

My insight is don't put a meter in your lap when working with 440 three phase

It'd been connected for a few minutes when it beeped once and then spontaneously disassembled itself. Blew the case clean apart. Safety glasses FTW. Only casualty besides the meter was a pair of skivvies. IIRC the culprit was an original series Fluke 87. They gave me a new one after I sent the remains back.

 

[Poodles]

dunno why, but I like a good non-digital meter, makes it easier to see the changes without it jumping around in ranges rapidly...

expesive multi meters can also be used with circuit boards and sensative electronics without frying them...

but I don't need them often enough to warrant me buying one...

oh, yeah, make sure it's got a fuse in it! I've seen some without :3d_frown:

 

[slidebabyslide]

What Justin said. You could do worse than John Fluke. Much worse. The 87V is my current favorite but you can go cheaper. Whatever you get study up on how to use it. And yes, most Flukes beep. I had one beep just before it exploded in my lap...

Uhm, did you had it in continuity? Why did it go boom?

 

[jetjock]

Just be sure an analog is high impedance or it'll be limited for working on the EFI system. Not many of those meters around these days.

Dunckel: Get something with an analog bar graph, frequency, and Min/Max/Average recording. 4000 or 5000 count is nice too.

Slide: No, it was in AC volts and autoranging. Stuff happens, even with Flukes that have 1000 volt isolation ratings.

Poodles: Now that you mention it that's one downside to Flukes. The fuses in some of them aren't cheap.

 

[Poodles]

yeah, analog is REALLY easy to set a TPS with, while it was hell to do with a digital (though actually checking the ranges I used a digital)

checking coils and stuff, I would use digital...

 

[RedDogOIF]

Good old harbor freight, you get what you pay for there. Fluke is great if you have a bike too.

 

[tte]

You dont need a $200 one for automotive electrical work.
A $50 will work fine. Just buy a decent one and use the rest of the money on your aftermarket car part.

Cheers,
Roy

 

[Dunckel]

That's all good stuff guys. I might have to PM some of you for details, because I have no idea what you were all talking about. I have NO electrical skills, but am determined to learn. And I don't want anything exploding in my lap. Well.....No, nevermind.

 

[Justin]

Dont' buy the Craftsman ones either, they're shit too. In my opinion *shrug*

I had one of those cheap little fuckers and was trying to test battery voltage.... I had it on the battery for about 3 seconds waiting for it to register then I noticed the leads were to hot they almost started melting... Needless to say that meter went in the garbage.

There's no better feeling than knowing you have the best meter money can buy.

The only time I had a fuse go in a fluke was the first lab I had in school... I was attempting to measure current, and standard to my M.O. I went at it without listening to the teacher.... alot more current is drawn when you put your meter in parallel than series


Ya know what... I was trying to find a good site with the 111 and 112, and it looks like they're both discontinued models. Contrary to what I posted earlier I think I have the 110, and the 111 is backlit.


Just another thing to note... Make sure you spend the money on a good set of test leads. I find those make a huge difference as well.

Ex: These

 

[RedDogOIF]

I really don't like getting shocked...oh but it is comical for my family to see me work on electrical in the house. I Iraq I learned how tingly 220v feels, yeah had to lay down on the bed after that one.

 

[bigaaron]

I bought a Fluke 76 back in '95 iirc, it still works awesome. I used it for countless electronics projects, electronics classes, 6 years of car audio/alarm install, and now for all sorts of automotive electrical work. Best tool I ever bought. I think I have gone through about 6 sets of test leads, but the meter still works purfect. The 40 ohm scale is nice for testing things like coils and injectors, and it has a capacitance test function, plus the frequency counter can be good for projects. It also has an analog graph across the bottom, in addition to the numeric display. If you buy a Fluke meter, you probably will never have to buy another one to replace it.

Be carefull about buying super cheap test equipment. If you can't trust what it is displaying, then it's worthless. Are you going to buy two cheap meters, test everything with both, and then average the readings? :biglaugh:

 

[BorHor]

for general purposes $20 ones are fine. My dad as some of the oldest multimeter ever made = ) and they all can do the same things no matter the age.

 

[Dunckel]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I have a good idea on what to look for.