most hp for little money
- Thread starter peachtits
- Start date
anyone happen to know the cost of a metal head gasket..? cause i decided thats gonna be my next move... after that i will have the wastegate shimmed
The cost for the gasket itself isn't that bad - check out Horsepower Freaks, they usually have them in stock.
The cost of the work for it is another story, you need to get the block and head machined to make it seal...
The cost of the work for it is another story, you need to get the block and head machined to make it seal...
yea install isnt gonna be too bad cause i happen to know a guy who can do it and is in love with mk3's so he does shit real cheap... ill give a look at that site... thanks
things i've done is new air filter, still OEM but i got it for 5 bucks new and mine was VERY old and grey with a little black haha. replace that makes a big difference.
if you want you could shim your wastegate, but i do warn you that it will shorten the span of your turbo. i shimeed mine and yeah my turbo ended up having death whine quicker than it's supposed too.
another way you can free some HP up will be hollowing out your catalytic converters, but that's not going to help you pass smog.
what i decided to do was just take out the 2nd catalytic converter, power is noticable, not exactly sure how much, but it makes a difference.
another way to MAKE YOUR CAR FASTER, but not really gain HP is to lighten your car. Sprung weight makes a big differece, er actually weight in general. Sprung or unsprung. make things lighter and you feel a great big difference.
if you want you could shim your wastegate, but i do warn you that it will shorten the span of your turbo. i shimeed mine and yeah my turbo ended up having death whine quicker than it's supposed too.
another way you can free some HP up will be hollowing out your catalytic converters, but that's not going to help you pass smog.
what i decided to do was just take out the 2nd catalytic converter, power is noticable, not exactly sure how much, but it makes a difference.
another way to MAKE YOUR CAR FASTER, but not really gain HP is to lighten your car. Sprung weight makes a big differece, er actually weight in general. Sprung or unsprung. make things lighter and you feel a great big difference.
peachtits said:
I have a better idea!
Why don't you learn to work on your car!
With all due respect I'm guessing you're not rich. So I think you may want to pick up a wrench and figure this shit out. Otherwise you'll go broke, get ripped off with high repair costs or bad work or both and you are at the mercy of whoever happens to be butchering your car at the moment.
Spend the $200 on tools.
I must be stupid 'cause I can't believe how many people own Supras without any intention of ever turning a wrench. Sad.
:nono:
dont want to encourage him too much, but if he really needs help, he isnt *too* far from Shaeff
<Shaeff, aka the most helpful guy I can think of in New York>
but yeah, intake, exhaust, and if yer gonna shim, may as well at least retorque the head.
<Shaeff, aka the most helpful guy I can think of in New York>
but yeah, intake, exhaust, and if yer gonna shim, may as well at least retorque the head.
it would have to be on a weekend, though...actually i can work on my car....im not stupid and i have tools... just before i bought the car my friend owned it but unfortunatly never got to drive it... just put the new engine in and payed for installation and other shit done by someone who also has a mk3 so he did everything cheap... the whole fluid change was done by that guy before i even owned it...
doing your own hg is the best way i can think of to learn how to work on your supra. thats how i learned, didnt know much before, now i do everything myself.
peachtits said:
When I said "spend the money on tools" I didn't mean it in a bad way. I just know from seeing what people pay to get stuff fixed that anyone but Donald Trump is going to go broke that way.
Anyway, I would say to anyone with a broken Supra who is waiting to get the money to pay someone else to fix it to roll up their sleeves break out the tools (or aquire some) and get busy. It's amazing what you can do on a budget if you do all your own work.
oh i know you save a shit load of money.. especially with stuff like a headgasket... which im not sure if i would be able to pull that one off by myself... that why i was sayin i would see how much my friend would want to do it... unless someone would help me on it then i would have no problem gettin my hands dirty while learnin some shit
What you SHOULD do is retourque. It takes very little time, and you get familiar with the top of your motor, which is usually covered with so many "things" it's unreal. Then you get to see how the rubber piece between the 3000 pipe and the TB is, you can check/ change your plugs and wires, make sure that the tiny little ground strap from your coil packs to the intake mani is still there, figure out how the backwards throttle linkage actually works, make your cam covers stop leaking, (trust me, they are) and know that you can keep boosting to 12 without blowing anything up. Then when you want to change your turbo and go bigger, pull the head, lap the block, machine the head, brake quite the gasket, and put it back together. With ARP headstuds.
I really think a retourque is the best thing to do. You'd be suprised just how loose 56 ft-lbs is. Especially after 10 years or so. After that, get a BIC DDP, and good catback. If your running 12 psi now, your wastegate is probably already shimmed, and you can't run any more (maybe 1 psi) before you hit fuel cut. After you do exaust and schyte yourself, get a nice big k&N and get rid or the rubber parts of your IC piping. If you hit fuel cut because your turbo spools 3000 rpm quicker and harder, get a MAFT from fullthrottlespeedandstyle.com you can dial out fuel cut, and do some dyno tuning to get more power as well. You should be able to run some good quarters and slaughter all things honda with that setup.
Have fun, get a second car.
-Jake
I really think a retourque is the best thing to do. You'd be suprised just how loose 56 ft-lbs is. Especially after 10 years or so. After that, get a BIC DDP, and good catback. If your running 12 psi now, your wastegate is probably already shimmed, and you can't run any more (maybe 1 psi) before you hit fuel cut. After you do exaust and schyte yourself, get a nice big k&N and get rid or the rubber parts of your IC piping. If you hit fuel cut because your turbo spools 3000 rpm quicker and harder, get a MAFT from fullthrottlespeedandstyle.com you can dial out fuel cut, and do some dyno tuning to get more power as well. You should be able to run some good quarters and slaughter all things honda with that setup.
Have fun, get a second car.
-Jake
yes, i just found out alls i need to do is re torque the head bolts... and while im there im gonna change up the plugs and wires... the move on to the upgrades..thanks for gettin me on the right track... im new with the whole supra thing.. so im learnin
naa im all set on rebuilding it... as for right now i am going to re torque my head bolts and other lil shit and call it a day on that
On an OEM HG? I would reccomend against retorqing the heat bolts... you could mush the HG and cause it to leak faster.
well basically... ive heard different things... ive heard ill be set for right now with just retorquing the head bolts and dont need a gasket and just go by the phrase "if it aint broke dont fix it" then others say its necessary to switch up the headgasket before i do anything... so is there a final word that can sum all this up?
No. Unfortunately, the jury is still out on the retorque - some people swear by it, some swear at it. In this case, you pay your money and take your chances.
alright well ill take that advice and torque my head bolts and just go with it for now... thanks