More FFIM questions

[supradavenz]

I want to remove the crank case ventalation pipe from the cam covers, possable or not? and if it is what exactly can i do with it, Ie. can i just instal a length of piping with a filter on the end of it or do i need to make some sort of oil catch and drain for it?

heres some pics of what ive done. if you didnt catch my post on the jz tech.
Front turbo side clicky
Bottom of intake fitment clicky
OMFG IM ON TOP clicky

My issues so far, kick down connection hitting cam cover
TPS sensor
and possably cold start (havent tested fitting) Okay cold start valve looks like it will be okay. 1 bolt doesnt line up but an easy fix.

Good news tho, with little modifying ports line up
intake stands the same height from top of the ports in the head (ruffly 7inches for both)
Looks a F'k load better then over the head 7m intake.

.Dave

 

[bowsercake]

I just want to say that that looks really good!

 

[zbaVR4]

yea now while your at it....

clean up your garage!

 

[tlo86]

from my understanding your valve covers will leak if you remove them, even put breathers on them... (if they are dirty) mine have with news seals thus is why i got a catch can

 

[Enraged]

you can remove that particular hole, but you should replace it with another hole in another location

 

[flubyux2]

i hope you dont mean you want to remove the nipple and plug the lower crank case vent... cuz then you will have HORRIBLE problems with oil drainback from the head. i too also considered removing that vent tube, blocking the cam cover nipple and putting a big K&N filter on the crank case vent nipple... but i would get oil vapor condensing EVERYWHERE under the manifold and alternator. itd be disgusting. what i did, was just cut down the PCV vent hose at the top so the 90* bend sits MUCH closer to the head. the only down side now, is that the upper alternator pivot bolt protrudes and butts up against that tube. nbd, it doesnt ever move, so i dont think it will abrade a hole into it.

the 2jz manifold is supposed to have a 30mm spacer (maybe thicker) between the head and the manifold flange itself so that it actually has some room between the cam covers and the plenum. you kinda messed up a little and painted yourself in a corner.

good news is, it looks good

 

[supradavenz]

Haha yeah i realise now i've cut it a bit close.. but not TO close that it isn't possable to work around.

and ahh so i still need to connect the cam covers to crank vent.. might be able to cut the alloy bit off the covers and re-angle it down and use a oil grade length of hose between it.

Any idea's as towards these questions:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=689343#post689343

 

[supradavenz]

yea now while your at it....

clean up your garage!

If i clean my garage it will only get messy again.. :wuteva:
I'll clean it when i move..

 

[Enraged]

for my FFI, i simply took the stock hose, cut about 4" off the top, and instead of routing it out and around the stock alt location, i brought it up along the side of the block. lower profile, and now theres room to mount my BBK TB.

 

[bountykilla0118]

for my FFI, i simply took the stock hose, cut about 4" off the top, and instead of routing it out and around the stock alt location, i brought it up along the side of the block. lower profile, and now theres room to mount my BBK TB.

Post a pic

 

[dbsupra90]

mine is hard pipe cut and welded to fit. iirc it was water pipe off of a semi.

 

[Enraged]

Post a pic

here you go

 

[flubyux2]

heres mine, if it helps any

 

[supradavenz]

Cheers for the idea's there guys.

Anyone have any idea's how to remove the throttle cable connection off the throttle body? so i can remove the kick down connection.

 

[supradavenz]

Few minor clearance issues.

i want to remove this part of the throttle, any tips?

Got about 1mm of clernace from this valve after grinding a little bit off the side

 

[tte]

Looks like more and more people are making their own FFIM..

Cheers,
Roy

 

[supradavenz]

Looks like more and more people are making their own FFIM..

Cheers,
Roy

Shipping one from the states is a little above my pockets im affraid so its not much of a option.

 

[tte]

I always like making my own stuff too...That way you make them just the way you like it.

Cheers,
Roy

 

[flubyux2]

honestly... i would redo the manifold. time to face the music and admit you did it wrong. not for oursake, but your own. youre only going to create more problems for yourself down the road by compromising everything else around an poorly thought out manifold. the engine around the manifold isnt thep roblem you need to worry about fixing. its the manifold ON The engine you have to fix.

stop trying to rig everything else around your manifold to make IT work. make the manifold work around IT (the engine).

btw, you cant remove any of that throttle linkage and have the rest of it work. its all dependant on eachother. there is NO way to make it work short of making a custom bell-crank. ive done it before using 7M parts, cutting, grinding and rewelding it to work. the only down side is, the throttle response will be TOOOO sensative. the radius of the 7M linkage is far shorter than the 2jz. the cantilever system on the top of the 7M is what makes the GTE throttle body more easy to drive w/ small throttle changes. also, when you cut off that throttle stop screw, youll NEVER be able to set the base idle of your 2jz TB. thats also a problem i ran into when doing a custom linkage on my friends MKIV. it idled too low and would stall out alot.

sorry, someone had to say itl.

 

[Nick M]

I love threads about how to throw shit away your car doesn't need.