MKIII RR BRAKES - replacement options?

[crisp]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1278491,parttype,1704

Okay, so my '89 T has CRUSTY:cry: rear calipers that are LONG overdue for replacement. I'd LOVE to go WILWOOD's as I did the front, but a little too tight on cash to do that at the moment.

I've been looking at the LINK above (ROCKAUTO) for replacement OEM type calipers, since I ALREADY have a set of NIB Toyota OEM organic pads sitting around.

QUESTIONS:

1) I see multiple options at Rockauto... WHICH is my best bet?

(Are SOME better than others??? How do I know?)

2) I would like AT LEAST braided lines upgrade... what is my best option for stock calipers? (From whom?)

3) I KNOW there are full rotor/braided line kits... but how about a CALIPER/LINE/ROTOR kit that won't break the bank? (I'm thinking most of the kits are ROTOR/PADS/LINES but NO caliper, unless you go BBK... am I mistaken?)


I know there is a bunch of material on these questions if I search a bit, but I'm in the office in meetings most of the day with just a moment at lunch to post this... and wish to ORDER tonight after work if I come up with a good solution from in here and decide to pull the trigger...:biglaugh:

Thanks in advance for any help!


NOTE: OTHER suggestions or observations are welcome...

-crisp

 

[Poodles]

Clean em up and wait until you can afford the wilwoods?

 

[adampecush]

If you can source a set of mkiv turbo rear calipers and rotors for cheap (mine were ~450 including a cylinder rebuild kits), and can enlist the discount services of a machinist, the two-piston mkiv rear upgrade is a cost-effective upgrade option.

Otherwise, look into a rebuild kit for the rear calipers...these are $14/each from toyota and include all necessary seals and boots to get your calipers working like new again. Unless you have some serious piston corrosion issues, I wouldn't bother with new calipers.

 

[crisp]

Clean em up and wait until you can afford the wilwoods?

^^^ That was my FIRST plan... but they are just TOO ROUGH to rebuild!:cry:

(...and I may NEVER be able to say I can "afford" the Wilwood's... although, Andy is pretty fair with his setup! Actually, even generous!)

If you can source a set of mkiv turbo rear calipers and rotors for cheap (mine were ~450 including a cylinder rebuild kits), and can enlist the discount services of a machinist, the two-piston mkiv rear upgrade is a cost-effective upgrade option.

Otherwise, look into a rebuild kit for the rear calipers...these are $14/each from toyota and include all necessary seals and boots to get your calipers working like new again. Unless you have some serious piston corrosion issues, I wouldn't bother with new calipers.

^^^ As stated on the "cost effective" rebuild... just not feasible, and the cost of the MKIV route seems to come to $600 or more by the time you pull it together... and it makes me wonder if I'm not about half way there to ARZ set... depending on whether I retain E-brake or not.)


Hmmm... makes me wonder...


Now I'm rethinking my whole "brake" dilemma. Maybe I'll park it for the winter and come up with the Wilwood's for spring, or decide what to do then.


-crisp

 

[Poodles]

Pics of how bad they are?

 

[crisp]

Pics of how bad they are?

Hmmm... unusual NOT to have any pics of something like this. We took a long, hard look and my guy at the shop and I pulled the calipers away and studied them, but honestly, I don't WANT these back in "play" on the car. Bad enough, in fact, that we didn't want to mess with them any further and risk screwing them up. Rotors are also shot.

The more I think about it, the more I expect I'll have some cash outlay... with no "low-dollar" option if I want rear brakes!:cry:

I need to just do it "right"... sigh...


-crisp

 

[Poodles]

You'd be surprised what a wire wheel or media blasting will do. If they don't leak and they're not siezed it's just cosmetic, but I can understand with now having such a clean car how it's gonna stick out like a sore thumb...

 

[crisp]

You'd be surprised what a wire wheel or media blasting will do. If they don't leak and they're not siezed it's just cosmetic, but I can understand with now having such a clean car how it's gonna stick out like a sore thumb...

Yeah, that's a lot of it, Poo! I also think the one side is half-seized, if that's even possible!:nono:


Hmmm... the Wilwood's would be SO NICE back there! I hate to lose my e-brake... so I need to get the EXPEN$IVE kit from Andy... and just can't cut it right now!:cry:



-crisp

 

[gaboonviper85]

How about you find someone parting out a supra in non rusting area such as AZ...get the good calipers then beadblast them, por15, paint then rebuild them...you'll have some nice working rear brakes...

I'm not understanding your questions I think.

 

[Zumtizzle]

^what he said.

what poodles said.........

and unless i rebuild it myself i don't trust jack.

As for pads and rotors i've had good luck with centec and beck arneley. Wagner is the forum choice though lol.

 

[bfr1992t]

You'd be surprised what a wire wheel or media blasting will do. If they don't leak and they're not siezed it's just cosmetic, but I can understand with now having such a clean car how it's gonna stick out like a sore thumb...

You'd be surprised what an Ohio winter can do. ;-)

Crisp, you can usually get a caliper, caliper w/bracket, or loaded caliper which also includes pads. Since you have pads you could get the cheapest rotors and decent yet cost effective caliper w/bracket to get you by. Inspect remans well before trusting them.

I'm in the same boat with my truck - rears down paper thin and pass side inner pad cracked wearing a 1" grove in the middle of the rotor surface. It's one that proportions (dynamically) the rear brakes considerably more than usual. I ordered new rotors/pads from Rock Auto but they delayed shipping long enough to ruin any chance of getting them by that Saturday. I ended up buying the cheapest set of pads Autozone had ($20), cheaper than anything that could have happened to the Supra due to weather, deer, late night, etc. They honestly work quite well and look like they will get me to spring when I intend to put the new brakes on and sell it.

 

[ogre]

My supra was sitting since 2000 with no love in someone's back yard until I scooped it up and started the reviving process . I just replaced caliper's all the way around on it all of them were locked up , they would not go out or in , I as well had the replace all the rear hard lines... The front went for about 100$ for the set of unload caliphers from oreillys and the rears even though they are smaller went for 130$ for the set same place... Do you self a favor and get some high temp caliper paint , because mine already are showing surface rust...

 

[Mastapip]

Crisp

Based on what you said, I'd go to that link and pick up a set of Cardone calipers. Doward uses them on his front brake kit, so it's at least a recognized name brand.

A friend of mine is upgrading his rear calipers to 300zx Z32 calipers. They're dual fixed piston calipers, but you'd require new brackets, rings and rotors, so i suppose it's not really a "replacement" option :biglaugh:

Do you need new rotors to use mk4 rear calipers?

 

[adampecush]

mk4 rear rotors and hub spacing rings are required.

 

[Keros]

You have a wilwood front BBK and you're going to install Toyota OEM Organic pads in the rear! Are you nuts?

Yeah, you could get away with running the stock rear brakes, but those organic pads are going to FADE like a mofo under serious braking... while the fronts are still ICE cold: Which in certain situations could kill you.

Get some Hawk pads, or Axxis... I would recommend Ceramic top performance pads. Semi-metal would be alright, but some brands like to squeal, whereas most ceramic pads are pretty quiet.

 

[Poodles]

Front brakes do most of the braking force, he'll be fine...

Ok, if you're going to replace them with stockers, make SURE they either come with the mounting bracket (best as then you don't have to clean your old one up) or at least replacement slides. The slides will wear causing uneven pad wear.

 

[crisp]

Hey, GREAT feedback all around guys! I'd pull individual quotes, but I'm in an international video conference with Japan and have to get right back to the agenda!

I'll comment more later as I decide what my next step is, but essentially, several have touched on it... brakes are bad, can't readily be "refurbished", need SOMETHING for now... would like Wilwood's but will "settle" for some decent "drag" back there until funds free up!


-crisp

 

[crisp]

UPDATE!


Well, now that the car is back from body and paint (had a bunged up tail end... and buckled rear-left quarter... but it's GOOD NOW!:biglaugh


...I need to address the BRAKE ISSUE that I left unattended when I SHOULD have been ordering parts! Started to DRAG pretty bad RIGHT after picking the car up from the shop... so I did a couple hot laps and a short photo-shoot (while it's still NICE and FRESH paint... since ANYTHING could happen if I wait! DOH!) and decided to PARK it for the week... until I fix the "hot-box" left-rear... and brakes in general.

Finally just took the plunge and ordered:


- REMAN set of "loaded" rear calipers
- POWERSLOT rotors
- Braided lines


I figure that will at LEAST slow me down without SCREECHING and SMOKING out the left rear now!



Another update once installed for effect and balance with the Wilwood's on the front... but I'm not concerned about the balance, since the fronts do SO MUCH of the braking, and even WITH the lame-o condition on the current rear, STILL manage to haul the car down GREAT!


-crisp