BLACKCAT;931371 said:You are currently running -2 I & +3.5 E cam timing at 119.5 lobe centre & 25 degrees valve overlap.
Have you filed the dizzy slot so you can retard the exhaust cam more & obtain more static advance as the distributor drive on the cam is out of sync?
I have filed mine down to 1mm from the end & can retard my exhaust down to -4 & still obtain 15 degrees timing.
You need to retard the exhaust more to pick up power.
Try altering your cam timing to -3 I & +1.5 E, giving you 118.5 lobe & 27 overlap. You wont loose any torque down low & will pick up power after 4500.
BLACKCAT;933496 said:Yes 9 degrees for Toyota & 8 degrees for the BC.
I have given you two lots of figures: one for seat-to-seat & the other for .05" lift.
You should probably start another thread to find out what other people have found to be good cam settings as there should have been dozens sold & installed by now.
From previous experience finding usefull tuning info on these cams is like getting blood out of a stone.
Good luck:biglaugh:
BLACKCAT;933911 said:There are two methods of measuring cam specs ie seat-to-seat & lift @0.05" thats why it appears confusing.
At intake +3.5 & exhaust +4 (cam timing) overlap will be 9 degrees.
What are your valve lash (clearance) settings?
Kristian_Wraae;933501 said:@IJ
Ok. You think the compression test is not ok?
I was told it was good and that there always would be small differences.
So you still think that there could be valves not closing correctly.
When I put my ear to the engine I seem to hear more noise around the 5 and 6 cylinders valves.
The engine has a new 2 mm HKS stopper gasket and both the block and the head have been resurfaced. Actually I had to provide the engine builder with three heads before he got one that he accepted as been good enough (not the slightest warped).
I have used ARP bolts and the head has been torqued with 100 nm.
The engine has not been driven hard yet. Only just touched 4000 rpm once.
IJ.;934029 said:Time to do a leakdown test Kris.