Mechanical Fan on 2jz swapped MKIII
- Thread starter Turbo Drifter
- Start date
I found a nissan clutch fan that fits nicely with the waterneck and the koyo rad and is not reverse rotating. It however did require some very careful bolt hole repositioning which I would be hesitant to do without a lathe or rotary table. I will check the garage in the morning and see what it came out of.
Well here's a pic of that clutch fan from a Nissan SR20 (whatever the hell that is, I have no clue. They just told me to give it a try.) It works really really well. Spins in the correct direction, way quieter then the electrics.
But most important of all is, it moves way more air and should be far more reliable than electrics.
Best pic I could manage, it's not an easy spot to get a clear shot of it.
Not sure if you can tell, but it sits pretty much perfectly between the water neck and the koyo rad. Give just slightly over 1" of clearance from the thicker than stock koyo rad.
Now I just gotta find my shroud or work something out in the direction.
But most important of all is, it moves way more air and should be far more reliable than electrics.
Best pic I could manage, it's not an easy spot to get a clear shot of it.
Not sure if you can tell, but it sits pretty much perfectly between the water neck and the koyo rad. Give just slightly over 1" of clearance from the thicker than stock koyo rad.
Now I just gotta find my shroud or work something out in the direction.
Well I gotta say the fan worked great........until, one of the blades let go and went through my rad. It appears that my particular plastic blades had a defect in the base of one of the fins in the form of a giant bubble. The blade with the big air bubble in the base of the plastic let go, caught in my rad and then other blades caught and.....you get the picture.
You can tell the blade with the bubble just let go because the white plastic is uniformed in the same coloring and the blades that then hit it show discoloration and are much whiter where they bent then broke off.
Here's a pic of the bubble defect in my blade portion.
In the second picture I circled the part of the rad that the blade stuck into and remained until I pulled it out. They chewed up the hood pretty good also.
You can tell the blade with the bubble just let go because the white plastic is uniformed in the same coloring and the blades that then hit it show discoloration and are much whiter where they bent then broke off.
Here's a pic of the bubble defect in my blade portion.
In the second picture I circled the part of the rad that the blade stuck into and remained until I pulled it out. They chewed up the hood pretty good also.
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Ouch... I had the stock 7M 10 blade fan do that to my PWR, but the clutch just slipped instead of tearing everything up that badly. Looks like there's still a clutch on that setup - does it lock up really hard? Wonder if there is some way to reduce the lock to something that will give instead of break...
I had one of mine do that. One piece went through the radiator and another nearly through the hood. At first I thought it might have been road debris, but later I found that one of the motor mounts had failed and allowed enough movement for the fan to contact the shroud and grenade.
Hmmm... crazy horror stories on the mechanical fan setups. I guess I'll keep my temperature activated electric fans with Fluidyne aluminum radiator for cooling my 2JZ.
GrimJack;1616981 said:
I think it had alot more to do with the RPM it let go at than the amount of lockup it had at the time. It let go on the very upper end of a very hard 3rd gear pull. I would estimate I was very near or at 6800-7000 RPM at the time of failure. I imagine at that RPM speed and judging by how deeply I found the one blade stuck into my rad that it takes very little for failure to the other originally unaffected blades to get caught up, bunch up and go to all hell. The plastic blade portion was externally perfect and new. I still believe this single blade with the large bubble defect was the original start of this entire failure.
Ah, that would probably explain it. Mine was normal driving, and as I'm officially a dirty old man, that means I rarely push the engine over 2500rpm. I pulled the shroud off and drove it home, then modded the shroud and put it back on with the same fan. The back of the PWR was a little bent out of shape, but both the fan and the radiator are still working perfect to this day.