MBC in glovebox?

theKnifeArtist

Fire on High!
Apr 6, 2006
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i've heard of mounting a manual boost controller in the glove compartment. will the excessivey long lines cause spike or any other bad things? and is there a hole to get into the glovebox? or do i need to make one?
thanks.
 

OneJoeZee

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Mar 30, 2005
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You should be ok. The hose routing on my 1J turbos is at least two to three times longer than the distance from a CT26 to the glovebox and I have no spiking issues.

Try it. If it's too long, you will know the first time you boost up. If it doesn't work, then just stick it back in the engine bay.
 

Idealsupra

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Mar 31, 2005
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OneJoeZee said:
You should be ok. The hose routing on my 1J turbos is at least two to three times longer than the distance from a CT26 to the glovebox and I have no spiking issues.

Try it. If it's too long, you will know the first time you boost up. If it doesn't work, then just stick it back in the engine bay.

arent the hoses on the 1j controlled by vacuum switches?

the longer the hoses off of the wg/turbo pressure port the worse off you are...put it that way....

IMO its not worth it to put it in the glovebox...
 

Sawbladz

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Mar 14, 2006
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Why put it in the glove box? Do you really change the boost that often. I havent touched mine in about a year...its set where I like it...as high as is safe. lol
 

OneJoeZee

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Idealsupra said:
arent the hoses on the 1j controlled by vacuum switches?

the longer the hoses off of the wg/turbo pressure port the worse off you are...put it that way....

IMO its not worth it to put it in the glovebox...

No. They're just like a CT26 except there are two. They are two independant turbos with their own individual wastegate. To get them to work with a boost controller, the front two compressors have to be tee'd together, to the boost controller, then tee'd out to the wastegates. So it's really twice the distance from the rear turbo to the front turbo.

There's no vacuum switches or anything.

The point is, if I am able to control boost that has to go a long distance like I described above and still suppress spiking, then he should be ok. But every car reacts a little differently to a boost controller... So the only way to know is to find out by trying it.
 

foreverpsycotic

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Jul 16, 2006
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the question is, how often are you going to be changing the boost. most people that i have met with a MBC set the boost and forget it. if you are going to be changing it i would go map based and use an EBC.
 

Idealsupra

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OneJoeZee said:
No. They're just like a CT26 except there are two. They are two independant turbos with their own individual wastegate. To get them to work with a boost controller, the front two compressors have to be tee'd together, to the boost controller, then tee'd out to the wastegates. So it's really twice the distance from the rear turbo to the front turbo.

There's no vacuum switches or anything.

The point is, if I am able to control boost that has to go a long distance like I described above and still suppress spiking, then he should be ok. But every car reacts a little differently to a boost controller... So the only way to know is to find out by trying it.

gotcha....im thinking of the 2j i guess since they arent true twins stock....

the point still remains that the shorter the lines the better for boost response...whether it be boost coming online, or spiking...the shorter the better. every single ebc you see out there says in the booklet "put solenoid as close to wg and pressure source as possible" for a reason ;)
 

hottscennessey

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Jun 3, 2005
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If you really need it in your glove box, and you want to be safe you could use hardlines instead of rubber hose, this will help to prevent boost spikes/sluggishness. I think you'll be fine with even rubber lines tho. I believe shaeff ran his MBC in his glovebox, but I can't remember. that was a long time ago.
 

OneJoeZee

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Of course. I understand that. My lines are long but I made them as short as I can. But the difference between having it in the engine bay and having it in the glovebox for him may be negligible.

Idealsupra said:
gotcha....im thinking of the 2j i guess since they arent true twins stock....

the point still remains that the shorter the lines the better for boost response...whether it be boost coming online, or spiking...the shorter the better. every single ebc you see out there says in the booklet "put solenoid as close to wg and pressure source as possible" for a reason ;)
 

OneJoeZee

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theKnifeArtist said:
ah, thanks guys, yeah i think ill just put it in the engine bay, guess it's better just to 'set it and forget it'!

If you're just going to set it once and leave it, then yeah it may not be worth your effort to route it to the interior.

I, personally, have a high and low setting on my EVC1 depending on if I'm running 91 or 100 so it makes it nice to be able to change with ease.
 

Wills7MGTE

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May 12, 2006
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I have an HKS MBC and its mounted in the engine bay on the fender in front of the wheel well right below the intake. I set it to 10psi and maybe change it 2 or three times in 6 months, and thats when it warms up a great deal or drops off a great deal in temperature. I now have my summer setting of 10psi dialed in, but in september and october it will need tweaking otherwise I'll hit fuel cut anytime I romp it.

IMO It's not worth it to mount it in the glovebox, it's your car do what you wish but I'd rather just slap it in the engine bay and pop my hood a couple times a year to reset it, hell now I don't hardly have to test it because I can naturally get it about dead on just from having it a couple years.
 

Wills7MGTE

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If I get a built motor or a bigger turbo then yes an Electronic boost controller is in my future since the ease of tuning and the safety features are there too on some of them. Until then I'll keep my simpleton style $80 Boost controller that wouldn't cost me 25 nowadays. LOL
 

MA70Snowman

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Oct 17, 2006
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i honestly don't think it would be such a bad idea to throw it in the glove box. (me personally i'd go closer... coin tray or the center console somewhere) i'd use a hard line just to be on the safe side.. and honestly its not that long .. just tap into that hard plastic line running along the back of the firewall, right at the passengers side in the corner of the engine bay.. then just run your MBC vacuum line in through the firewall where your harness runs and maybe drill a small hole in your glove box and route it in. mount it, set it close it and call it a day. its all easy to tear apart and takes maybe 5 mins. if i had MBC i'd definatly cabin mount it somewhere.