Making the throttle react quicker...
- Thread starter Reign_Maker
- Start date
A standalone will cure that. It's the nature of having a modded car with a load of piggybacks.
Run an AEM and you can solve it.
Run an AEM and you can solve it.
It used to really bug me.. the sluggish response, but after time the ECU will correct it dramatically.. or so I've noticed.
Return AEM get new AEM... :icon_razzIHI-RHC7 said:Ran aem, still have it.
Speaking of AEM, I need to go update my build thread... :icon_bigg
It's not sluggish responce, it's just when idling and you snap the throttle open, you get a Cough-rev. The cough is the plenum filling, and then the car revs. It's just a split second, not at all sluggish, it screams to redline there-after. With itbs, only the volume between the intake valve and plate would be under vaccum, the rest would be filled with air waiting to enter the engine. Snap the throttle, a few cubic inches fills much quicker than a 2 liter surge tank with a whole lot of nothing in it...
Yes, a long runner manifold like a 5.0 Mustang or the ACIS on naturally aspirated Toyotas.robbo185 said:
In a draw through maf system, the pressure difference wave has to travel from the throttle body, through ALL THE MILES of IC piping, up and out the turbo, and finally hit the MAF sensor - THEN the ECM can read the actual amount to adjust fueling. There should be a TPS vs AE pw or similar table in the stock ECM - that is all there is to cover that tip-in hesitation. A MAP system will also cure it - as a MAP reads it instantly, without waiting for the MAF to finally get a new signal.
Hope this isn't off topic, but I was wondering if this can also happen at low revs, opening the throttle slowly. My car used to be very smooth accelerating from idle -> 3000rpm, but now it pretty much jumps from idle to 1200rpm and the accelerator pedal feels a little 'stiff'. Feels like there's a lump between 800 and 1100 rpm that you have to push the revs over before it's free to soar!
I'd say mine's more related to the actual throttle linkage or the auto tranny linkage holding it back (or my recent change from 10w-60 to 15w-60 oil?), not any of the above-mentioned electronic causes.
I'd say mine's more related to the actual throttle linkage or the auto tranny linkage holding it back (or my recent change from 10w-60 to 15w-60 oil?), not any of the above-mentioned electronic causes.
miggles said:
What other sort of problems would I be experiencing if my cam timing was out, Mik? (I'm pretty positive it's acurate.)
it just seems to take longer to rev. may get some misfire and spluttering/coughing. sometimes you can get funny noises. Ive had mine out by 2 teeth and it misfires and carries on. Out by one tooth and you start to wonder if something is wrong.
I tightened the throttle cable and tranny throttle link this morning and it feels a LOT smoother.
I didn't think it felt any more powerful or quicker to respond, until I floored it around a corner and felt a surge of power that I didn't feel yesterday on that same corner.
Mik, is there any conclusive way to check whether my cams are out by a tooth, other than taking off the timing cover and checking the marks? when I put the belt on they were perfectly aligned (as far as I could tell).
I didn't think it felt any more powerful or quicker to respond, until I floored it around a corner and felt a surge of power that I didn't feel yesterday on that same corner.
Mik, is there any conclusive way to check whether my cams are out by a tooth, other than taking off the timing cover and checking the marks? when I put the belt on they were perfectly aligned (as far as I could tell).
on mine when I line up my markings the notches in the cam gears and the backing plate are off by half a tooth. (due to the belt having teeth)
IIRC the intake is slightly towards the sparkplug valley and exh is also slightly on the sparkplug valley. Yours may vary with the amount of metal removed from your head/block and thickness of hg.
Ive gone with a 2mm cometic and it still lines up with my previous mhg's.
I think Ians one had some crazy deflections from "normal tdc" due to his 3mm cometic.
On another note have you put the cam gears back on with the pins in the same hole?
Check your timing again too.
IIRC the intake is slightly towards the sparkplug valley and exh is also slightly on the sparkplug valley. Yours may vary with the amount of metal removed from your head/block and thickness of hg.
Ive gone with a 2mm cometic and it still lines up with my previous mhg's.
I think Ians one had some crazy deflections from "normal tdc" due to his 3mm cometic.
On another note have you put the cam gears back on with the pins in the same hole?
Check your timing again too.
Yep the cam gears have the pins in the same hole.
The timing is 10deg BTDC, checked it a week ago.
OK, so in the case that mine is slightly out because of my block/HG, how would I know whether it's lined up or not?
The timing is 10deg BTDC, checked it a week ago.
OK, so in the case that mine is slightly out because of my block/HG, how would I know whether it's lined up or not?
for the record i fixed my problem so it seems.....
got my walbro and a new fuel filter installed today.
A/fs went to where they were tuned at wot....11.8ish
no bogging on takeoff from a light
my fuel filter was about 80% clogged.
Just some food for thought to help with this problem
got my walbro and a new fuel filter installed today.
A/fs went to where they were tuned at wot....11.8ish
no bogging on takeoff from a light
my fuel filter was about 80% clogged.
Just some food for thought to help with this problem
I was thinking of replacing my fuel filter ($65 AUD.. how much is it in the US?) , but was told it doesn't ever really need replacing.
Maybe I should consider it again.. sounds like a good thing to replace when installing new fuel pump/fuel lines...
Maybe I should consider it again.. sounds like a good thing to replace when installing new fuel pump/fuel lines...