MAFT problem

[Intothenight19]

So after going out with my friends, I came back to my car, start it up and my p.o.s maft throws me a red light that stays on then shortly after a CEL comes on. Now, this thing was working fine before this, then all of a sudden decided to stop working. Has anyone encountered this problem? And if so have any ideas on what to do. Or does anyone just have any ideas in general..Im so pissed right now.....Oh and I tried to reset the thing, which did absolutely nothing, I was told to do so by full throttle....It did nothing..Ok, if anyone can help please feel free to chime in. Thanks

 

[drjonez]

1. how is it wired up?

2. how are the connections made- solder? crimp? twisted wire?

3. where is the device located?

while things do suddenly die from time to time, it's fairly rare. there IS a reason....

 

[Intothenight19]

Its all crimped, the wiring looks ok, I checked all of it. Checked it to the ecu, checked it to the maf. It just pulled this out of nowhere, it was working fine, then bam red light comes on stays on, CEL follows..sigh.......Oh and it's located in my glove box, not under the hood or anywhere else where its exposed.

 

[drjonez]

codes?

 

[Intothenight19]

Haven't checked yet, I will though, its throwing a CEL, I'm not sure if the MAFT is causing that or what...Im so exhausted from dealing with one thing after another...Damn 7m's.....I love em though.. I'll check for codes and be back later...Thanks drjonez..

 

[Intothenight19]

Im just thinking about scraping the translator, and maybe just replacing it with a new one, or going back to maf sensor and an safc. This thing is becoming more of a foe than friend. And I just looked for codes and none came up, the translator must have taken a crap...hmm

 

[shaeff]

you need to keep you friggin head on straght man. seriously, look at all the conclusions you jumped to just in this thread alone. :nono:

if you ever expect to have any luck what-so-ever on any car you ever buy, you might want to think about systemizing how you diagnose your problems...

i doubt the translator took a crap. check your wiring.

-shaeff

 

[Intothenight19]

I do agree my friend. I double checked the wiring to the ecu, and it seems solid, the only wiring I cant see is in the firewall, but how could that be fazed? I will go over it a third time just for giggles later on. You really dont think the translator could go bad? I find it hard to believe myself since the car started up no problems, then two hours later is giving me this issue..Hmm..The plot thickens..

 

[87_7MGTE]

pull the codes so we arent guessing, im thinking when we know which code(s) its throwing, it will be way easier to track the problem down

 

[Intothenight19]

Ok, I checked the codes, Im getting a 24, and 31. I think I may have cooked my MAF by running so rich. Any ideas on a fix? Thanks!

 

[87_7MGTE]

ive never heard of anything like that. 24 and 31 both relate to the AFM, so you probably have a dead AFM, or the wiring is bad. check that out first.

 

[drjonez]

yup, 24 is due to the MAFT, 31 means the ECU isn't seeing an AFM input- either the MAFT isn't outputing anything or the wiring is bad.

 

[Intothenight19]

Think my MAF could have gone bad? Tomorrow I'm going to go ever my connections with a fine toothed comb. Could it be the translator just went bad all of a sudden? Once I check over the wiring and make sure everything is good I'll get back here with the results...

 

[drjonez]

while it's certainly possible the translator went bad, it's rather unlikely. the MAF may have gone bad if something came in contact w/the element.

 

[turbobob]

99% of the MAFT's that have problems are due to external issues.

On DSM's the users frequently crush the wiring and fry the power feed circuit. Its an easy fix, but its not the MAFT's fault......

On Supras it seems that the power feed connections are not always secure.
If the MAFT is not getting power you will get an AFM fault, but the air temp is just a resistor. If the ground is faulty, then I can see having both faults.

Are the LEDs coming on at key-on? Does the green one light up when you start the car?

Bob

 

[Intothenight19]

No the red LED immediately comes on when I just turn the key to ignition position. Then once I start it up the red LED continues to stay on. I checked all my connections, including the ground, power. I checked the volatage on my power wires, and on the MAF connector, and Im getting 12v. Something that was off though when checking power the yellow wire on the maf connector was only getting around 5v? Im clueless, I don't see how after driving for an hour shutting it off for another and starting her back up could have caused a malfunction. I drove it normal, BUT, extremely rich...I mean really rich, my A/FR's were rich as hell at every throttle position including idle. I wonder if that was an attributing factor? Any ideas on how to fix? Any lol..?

 

[drjonez]

where do you have the MAF located?

 

[Intothenight19]

It located about 16 inches before the TB on the upper IC piping. I checked the inside of it and there was some dark liquid which smelled like fuel. I wonder if the richness cooked it. But how? Is the real question.....

 

[turbobob]

if the red led is staying on, you have a bad ground, or your MAFT needs repair.

Bob

 

[Intothenight19]

Yeah my ground is fine, I think the thing needs repair. Now just so Im not overlooking anything the e2 wire for the ground is hooked up to the brown wire correct? If so then its hooked up fine...Looks like I need another MAFT...