Machine just the timing cover?
- Thread starter CyFi6
- Start date
So motors were turbo'd in Japan in 86? Interesting never knew that. Would posting the casting number tell any secrets here?
The pressure relief valves are actually in the bolts, not the nozzles themselves. The bolts should be replaced.
The Supra in Japan never came with the 7M-GE. It had the 7M-GTE from the get go, squirter nozzles were added at the same time the 7M-GTE made it's debut here in North America. Same goes for the Soarer, the 7M-GTE was used in it for the same time period without squirters, and then the nozzles were added in 86.8.
Jeff
The Supra in Japan never came with the 7M-GE. It had the 7M-GTE from the get go, squirter nozzles were added at the same time the 7M-GTE made it's debut here in North America. Same goes for the Soarer, the 7M-GTE was used in it for the same time period without squirters, and then the nozzles were added in 86.8.
Jeff
Interesting, thanks for the info! Im going to get some pics soon here, are there any other particular areas i should take pictures of (besides where the squirters should be and the exhaust side of the block)?
Got some pictures. Here is the side of the block, looks to be the "weaker" version. Also, no squirters. I also seem to have a 6M Crank. I forgot to mention, the dipstick tube is the push in style, not the screw in, so that is something else that leads me to believe this is not an NA block. Seems like the best explanation right now is that it is a JDM turbo motor.
I also removed and plastigaged all the rod bearings. They were all in specs, and the largest clearance i saw was .002", but the majority of them were between .0015" and .002". But the problem is the bearings don't visually look that great. They all seem to be rubbed off and the outer Babbitt layer seems non existent on some of the bearings. Would this qualify for a simple drop in replacement of the bearings (the crank pins were flawless)? I also posted some pictures of the stamp on the back identifying the bearing, if anyone has any idea what kind of bearings they are (they are all the same size) (both bearing shells have an oil hole).
This brown blotchiness is part of the bearing, it would not just wipe off.
I also removed and plastigaged all the rod bearings. They were all in specs, and the largest clearance i saw was .002", but the majority of them were between .0015" and .002". But the problem is the bearings don't visually look that great. They all seem to be rubbed off and the outer Babbitt layer seems non existent on some of the bearings. Would this qualify for a simple drop in replacement of the bearings (the crank pins were flawless)? I also posted some pictures of the stamp on the back identifying the bearing, if anyone has any idea what kind of bearings they are (they are all the same size) (both bearing shells have an oil hole).
This brown blotchiness is part of the bearing, it would not just wipe off.
Ok so i have figured out these are KING bearings. They are marked STD, so does that mean they are original standard size?
I am having trouble figuring out the numbering system toyota uses. My rods and crank are not marked in the same way that the manual states they should be, so someone with a little experience here would be great (or should i just get another set of "STD" size bearings like clevites?). Thanks.
I am having trouble figuring out the numbering system toyota uses. My rods and crank are not marked in the same way that the manual states they should be, so someone with a little experience here would be great (or should i just get another set of "STD" size bearings like clevites?). Thanks.
Toyota has used more than 1 numbering system in the past, depending on what year you have.
What numbers are stamped on the block and/or crank (whatever is applicable)?
Jeff
What numbers are stamped on the block and/or crank (whatever is applicable)?
Jeff
Poodles;1243077 said:
Yeah, looks like Toyota was more consistent on the 7M than on some other engines. I've checked a few years of the TSRM and they're all the same.
They still do it weird on the 7M though, haha.
You'll need to get the numbers from the crank and rods to figure out what rod bearings you need, and the numbers from the crank and block to figure out what main bearings you need. They're in various places.
Check the TSRM, it's all in there, but you'll definitely want to look at it for yourself, me explaining it won't help as much, haha.
Jeff
Unfortunately i pulled the main caps and was not happy with what i saw. The number 1 and 2 main journals on the crankshaft dont look too good. Theres some pretty major pitting on number two. Number 1 has a little, but not quite as bad. All oil clearances are still within spec despite the wear on the bearings and the pitting. Im trying to figure out my options at this point and any suggestions would be great. From what i know, machine work would be quite expensive. I could pull the crank out of my 7m NA engine that's in my car right now and use that, in hopes that it is actually in good shape as well. Im pretty close to no money at this point, so unfortunately (and i am really hoping it doesn't come down to this!) I might have to ditch the project and take a loss.
Here are some pics. Of course in the pics it looks worse than it did in person, but i guess the pictures really bring out the detail of it all.
^ Top center is the one from the journal with the pitting.
Here are some pics. Of course in the pics it looks worse than it did in person, but i guess the pictures really bring out the detail of it all.
^ Top center is the one from the journal with the pitting.
Not looking good, those pits look pretty deep as well. You could take a look at your other crank, have you ever had water in your oil?