Lowe's - 1 Harbor Freight - 0....

[KicknAsphlt]

It's amazing what the proper tools will do for a job. I finally started working on the Supra again, and decided that the best way to route my IC piping is to relocate the battery and go through the fender where the battery tray would normally go.

Enter Harbor Freight -- Figured I'd buy their 'Bi-Metal' Hole-saw kit, and a new cordless drill setup to do the job with. The drill kit seems pretty good for HF goods, but the hole-saw bit flattened the tips of the teeth within about 10sec on that fender.

Enter Lowe's -- Figured I'd need a better quality bit, so I ventured to Lowe's...found a pre-arbored Hole-saw bit on sale for about $25. Then I saw a shiny new 8-amp DeWalt power drill for $70...so I snagged that too, rather than dig my HF power drill out of storage.


Needless to say, I get home, and the next afternoon I decided to knock these holes out... The DeWalt power drill and hole-saw bit from Lowe's had all 3 holes cut in less than 5min... Seriously -- that first hole was done in about 15sec!

Suffice it to say, I think I learned my lesson....LOL! And now, pics of said holes and my relocated battery box. The box isn't completely mounted, but will be soon.

 

[destrux]

Looks good. I ran my pipes kind of like that, except I went around the frame and behind the radiator instead of cutting the second hole.

 

[Supra NA-T]

looks real good.

 

[arknotts]

Looks good! That's how I routed my IC piping as well. You can remove the battery tray pretty easily, just drill/grind off the spot welds and then tug at it. You may have to use a dremel + cutoff wheel as well. If you position the battery just right, you can still fit your targa in the hatch. Like it sits now I doubt it will fit.

BTW, what did you use to cover the edges of the hole? I need something as mine is currently just bare metal.

 

[TweeT91109]

I take offence to this post.


Wait never I just work there. I don't use anything from there except the engine hoist and stand. Lol.

 

[KicknAsphlt]

Looks good. I ran my pipes kind of like that, except I went around the frame and behind the radiator instead of cutting the second hole.

I can't quite picture the routing you're talking about, but I had to route mine this way...or I'd have to remove the A/C stuff, and I was leery of that because I wasn't sure how that would've affected the Heater/defrost for winter. I know in my truck, when you turn the heater or defrost on, the A/C compressor clutch still engages occasionally.

---------- Post added at 11:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 PM ----------

looks real good.

Thanks!

---------- Post added at 11:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 PM ----------

Looks good! That's how I routed my IC piping as well. You can remove the battery tray pretty easily, just drill/grind off the spot welds and then tug at it. You may have to use a dremel + cutoff wheel as well. If you position the battery just right, you can still fit your targa in the hatch. Like it sits now I doubt it will fit.

BTW, what did you use to cover the edges of the hole? I need something as mine is currently just bare metal.

Not sure if I'll remove the battery tray...may just make some sort of cover plate in the future or something. As far as the targa, I don't put it in the trunk anyway...my sub box is in the way...lol -- U just lay it on the back seat or the floor between the back seat and front seats.

The stuff I bought was Vinyl door and window bulb seal gasket...basically vinyl tube gasket with a flap molded onto it. Bought it from Lowe's, yellow packaging, made by 'MD'. All I did was take an X-acto knife and slit the flap off, then slit the tube along the back/outside edge that follows the natural coil. I can snap a pic of it if you'd like for reference.

---------- Post added March 9th, 2011 at 12:00 AM ---------- Previous post was March 8th, 2011 at 11:58 PM ----------

I take offence to this post.


Wait never I just work there. I don't use anything from there except the engine hoist and stand. Lol.

There are a few decent things there, but not an overabundance...lol. The hoist was worthless when I went to put the motor back in the car -- the arm was still too short even fully extended...lol.

 

[Poodles]

Knew I had this bookmarked for a reason. None of the HF hole saws are rated for metal, that's why you had an issue. Most hole saws are rated for wood, drywall, or glass/granite/marble.

Even the saws from lowes are the same way, though they're higher quality and will take longer to be destroyed from improper use. Going through the same issue right now trying to make my own washers for a project.

 

[dragracer]

Both places sell them for metal.
Just need to get quality ones.
And run them SLOW if going thru anything thicker than sheetmetal. And keep it cool.

 

[OneJArpus]

I used a HF Drill & Hole bit set - to go through my firewall when I did my 1jz project. They are still good, went thru it fast too, 3 yrs later i gave the set to a friend and he still has it and uses it. I kept it cool with wd40