Low coolant, but it refills itself.

[Phantom]

Well, the car had the low coolant light come on and I check the reservior and it was low on coolant. I checked it about an hour later it wasn't low anymore.

I remember that when the coolant had been flushed out and refilled, it was also burped. This was about 10 months ago.

Other than having it reburped, I'm not sure what else might have created the problem and how to solve that.

 

[CRE]

Interesting little fact: The coolant "overflow" tank is actually a full fledged reservoir!

As the system cools and as it heats up coolant contracts and expands... the excess is dumpered into the reservoir where it is later pulled from as things cool down....



In other words, ADD COOLANT TO THE RESERVOIR!

 

[jetjock]

"dumper"? At least you got "reservoir" right

He's correct phantom. Add coolant mix to the reservoir so it's at the full mark when cold. It should always be very close to where you filled it but only when cold. Fwiw I made another mark higher up and keep it there so as to not have the light winking at me during hot cornering.

 

[CRE]

"dumper"? At least you got "reservoir" right

Dere, I fixed it. :biglaugh:

 

[jdub]

Lmao!

 

[jetjock]

That's better

Btw the coolant isn't pulled from the reservoir. It's pushed back in...but I won't nitpick

 

[Phantom]

Thanks for the inputs.

I added water so now the fluid is over the max line on the reservior.

 

[Frank Rizzo]

It should always be very close to where you filled it but only when cold.

I've noticed, that it is dependant on ambient temperature as to where the coolant level acutally comes to rest when fully cold. For example, when it is 30 degrees outside, it will be lower than when it is 90 degrees out. Keep in mind, the difference in level is less than a quarter inch give or take a little. And it should be consistant, if it goes from 30 degrees to 90 degrees ambient temp, then back to 30 degrees over the course of a year, the "30 degree" level should maintain as it did when it was last 30 degrees ambient temperature. I'm rambling so I'll shut up now. I also made my own mark on my bottle long ago....

 

[jetjock]

That's good rambling Frank because it's absolutely correct. It's why I said very close. Cold level will indeed vary with ambient but not by much. What it should not do is change overall. Not even a little. It's a sealed system and the best way to know everything is alright is to keep it sealed and monitor the cold level over time to establish normal. It's why I rarely take the radiator cap off. Not only is there no need but it corrupts (at least for a day or so) the "calibration".

 

[Phantom]

So about two days (about 2.5 months after I originally made this thread), I got into my car and noticed my low coolant light came on. So I stopped at a local shopping center and poured a bottle of water I had with me into the reservior, with made the light go away.

I probably need to drain and refill new coolant in there. But I'm kind of wondering if this may be a sign of BHG. I'm hoping the 7M-GE could hold together for at least another six months because now is not the time and I don't have the resources to rebuild it. Limited mechanical skills on my part is not good.

How much would a factory style (with retorque head bolts to 72 ft/lbs.) rebuild cost for a 7M-GE in term just parts alone (gaskets and such)?

 

[cuel]

Do you show any other symptoms? Water in the oil, loss of power, coolant on spark plugs, a steady miss, exhaust gases in the coolant? I'd lean more toward a slow leak somewhere, like a hose clamp that's a tiny bit loose, and dripping. Borrow a pressure tester from A.Z., and see what you find. I'd also check the coolant level in the radiator(when its cold), just to be sure it's not low.

 

[Phantom]

I don't know how to check for exhaust gasses in coolant, but I think there weren't any oil in the coolant in the reservior.

I haven't check for water in the oil. I suppose I'm to remove the oil filler cap and see if there is any coolant on it.

The car sometimes on the initial start-up of each day would crank and stall. I would wait a few seconds and when I attempt another start-up it'll be able start right up.

I'll probably replace the spark plugs and the coolant some time this upcoming week.

 

[87silverbullitt]

In terms of the low engine coolant, i think i may have the same problem. The engine coolant light stays on no matter what. However when i go to check the coolant level in the engine it always seems topped up. I noticed the other day that on certain turns the coolant light would go away and then as soon as i started going in a straight line it would come back on. Can anyone tell me if this is the same problem and how to fix it?

 

[Phantom]

Was the top off in the radiator or the coolant reservior?

 

[Phantom]

So the coolant and the spark plugs were replaced a couple of weeks ago.

I also replaced a hose was leaking coolant over the #3 spark plug (probably where the coolant leak was from).

I also noticed that after removing the y-pipe, the intake manifold looked kind of wet. Not sure if it was oil or coolant; is it suppose to be wet (I don't think so)?

All I could do in the meantime is continue to drive my car and hope I don't have a BHG for now. I'm thinking of getting a ITM rebuild kit and see if my friend can assist me in a rebuild. That's all for now.

 

[Clip]

i just got done with a ge rebuild, ran me about $4000

rebuilt head, new pistons, ground crank, decked block, all gaskets. also had arp rod bolts and head studs, and new clutch/pp

 

[626na]

could of got a 2jz^

 

[jgcable]

So the coolant and the spark plugs were replaced a couple of weeks ago.

I also replaced a hose was leaking coolant over the #3 spark plug (probably where the coolant leak was from).

I also noticed that after removing the y-pipe, the intake manifold looked kind of wet. Not sure if it was oil or coolant; is it suppose to be wet (I don't think so)?

All I could do in the meantime is continue to drive my car and hope I don't have a BHG for now. I'm thinking of getting a ITM rebuild kit and see if my friend can assist me in a rebuild. That's all for now.

Sounds certainly like a BHG. Have a leak down test performed. A repair shop will do it for around $90.00 if you aren't sure how to do it.

 

[suprarx7nut]

i just got done with a ge rebuild, ran me about $4000

rebuilt head, new pistons, ground crank, decked block, all gaskets. also had arp rod bolts and head studs, and new clutch/pp

O_O :aigo:

Dude..... full, freshly rebuilt GTE would have been about that much if you did some of the work. i hope that price includes a lot of labor. That crazy for a GE...

could of got a 2jz^

That too.


Phantom: My bhg fix cost me ~$500 after all was said and done. That included new coolant hoses (3-5 of them), ARP studs, Toyota HG, Used head w/ new valve seals and machined flat, helicoil kit and some other small pieces.

If you pay a shop to do it, it will likely cost 1500-2000.



To check for oil in water, look under oil cap: If you see a milky, light brown color, milkshake-like substance you have a bhg.

To check your coolant for oil, see if it's brown? :dunno:

To check for exhaust gases in coolant: Get a block test kit; sometimes called combustion gas test kit.

If you keep losing coolant look on the exhaust side of the block and search for dribbles of coolant. Many hoses on that side can develop small leaks that may only leak when hot and be evaporated from you exhaust heat. I was losing coolant for some time after my bhg fix with no leaks on the ground.

See my sig link for more bhg info.

 

[Phantom]

Wow, $4,000 for a rebuilt 7M-GE?!

I might as well put that money to get a daily car and have the MA70 sit out for while
But then again, that must be one well-built 7M-GE that can perform.

As much as I hope it's not a BHG, I need the motor to last for at least another three months. I'm in the middle of my semester here.

I'm glad you did a write for your 7M-GE, suprarx7nut. I will use it as a guide. Did you order all your gaskets through Toyota? I was thinking of getting a ITM full engine gasket kit like the one mentioned by Rennat on this page
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78540&highlight=felpro+rebuild+gasket

I got lost among the felpro versus stone kit. At a local Toyota parts department, I remember that had a 22R head set made by ITM, so I thought like "oh, if the dealership is selling it, it must be good!"

I can't afford to fork over a grand for a rebuild of the 7M-GE. I'm hoping a friend of mine would be able to help me rebuild it since I'm a novice and haven't rebuilt any engine before...so on top of the ~ $500 for the parts I'm hoping that he won't charged me more than $200 for labor.

Is the block test the same thing as a compression test for the engine?

Other than that, thanks for all the info that you all have provided.