lots of helpfull tips and tricks

williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
this is a thread of somewhat commonly needed tips and tricks. i will add more to it as i think of them. again, just copied this fro mthe other forum i posted it on. figured it may help some folks.

CRANK PULLEY BOLT REMOVAL!

best way to remove or tighten that bolt(no nics on the inside of the block or on the rod, etc..)

step 1: remove the timing belt from the cam gears, then line the cams up so the intake and exhaust valves are closed on the #1 cylinder.

step 2: turn the crank ~1/3 turn clockwise past tdc for #1 piston.

step 3: remove the #1 sparkplug.

step 4: use some stereo power cable thats insulated. i used 8 or 10 awg. and slide ~6-12in or so in the cylinder

step 5: then turn the crank back counter clockwise. it locks the motor.

step 6: use a breaker bar and 6 point 19mm socket to break it loose.

for tightening, same thing, but turn counter clockwise first, then clockwise to lock it. then use a tq wrench set to the correct tq. 6m/7m is 195ft/lbs and 5m is 168lbs/ft iirc




PILOT BEARING REMOVAL!

this will work for w58 or r154. same pilot bearing. 5m,6m, or 7m.

step 1: get a couple paper towels and a cup of water and a stock headbolt or an aftermarket bolt the same size. i have several stock headbolts and they fit in the pilot hole perfect. a flat head screwdriver and a hammer!

step 2. tear off pieces of paper towel about 1.5in square.

step 3. dip the pieces 1 at a time in the cup of water and then stick them in the pilot hole. repeat till you cant force any more in there.

step 4. take the headbolt and put it in the hole and tap wit hthe hammer easily till it touches the crank inside. then remove it.

step 5. repeat step 3 and 4 until it is packed so tight that you have to hit the bolt wit hthe hammer hard for it to push the bolt in. at this point you will notice the bearing starting to push out. each time the bolt bottoms out remove it and pack more wet paper towels in the hole untill the pilot bearing pops all the way out.

step 6. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the large chunck of wet paper towels and your done. just a lil water to wipe off. no greasey mess like the haynes ends up causing you.




HOW TO HAVE A TIGHT LEAK FREE OILPAN!

this assumes youve already scrapped all old sealant off the pan and block

step 1: grab a can of acetone, some clean rags and a tube of ultra gray sealant. also some glaves wont hurt.

step 2: pour some acetone onto a clean rag and wipe the block mating surface and pan mating surface clean. the acetone will remove any oil or grease residue and dry instantly with no residue at all. might want to wear gloves so that acetone doesnt dry out your hands.

step 3: put a nice even bead around the entire block if you have the engine on a stand and upside down, or on the pan if the engine is in the car. ive found 1 full tube is usually used for the pan itself.

step 4: place the pan directly onto the block, do not allow it to slide around as this will damage the bead of sealant you have put down.

step 5: install all the bolts and tighten properly.

once the sealer has dried you could remove the bolts and the pan wont come off. lol. when it ever needs removed it will have to be "persueded" to do so as this gives a VERY good seal and bonds very well once its been heatcycled a few times.




BEST HG SEAL POSSIBLE!

step 1: you need your hg, a tube of ultra gray, some clean rags, and a can of acetone. also the proper socket and extension and a GOOD tq wrench!!!

step 1. pour some acetone on a clean rag and clean the head and block surface very thouroughly. it will dry leaving no residue at all.

step 2: put a tiny bead of ultra gray at the 2 spots where the front timing cover attaches to the block. DO NOT PUT A HUGE BEAD!!!!!!!!!! just a small one and may even want to smear it with your finger slightly.

step 3: place the hg on the block being sure it is seated over the dowel pins properly

step 4: install the head. get help if possible as you want to set it straight down and not slide it on the gasket at all. easier when you have a competent helper.

step 5: install the bolts or head studs and make all finger tight.

step 6: tq the bolts in the proper sequence to the proper spec in 3 even passes. i use 90lbs with head studs and lube on them. so i go 30, 60, then 90. with headbolts i go to 75 in 25, 50, 75 sequence.





HOW TO SEAL THIN PAPER GASKETS!

this is for any small paper gasket, like the diff cover, or the timing cover for the block and thermostat housing and other misc paper gaskets.

step 1: you need some clean rags, can of acetone, and a tube of ultra gray sealant.

step 2: pour some acetone on a clean rag and wipe the mating surfaces of the parts that are going together clean.

step 3. put a dab of the ulta gray on your thumb and forefinger and rub together and then rub it on the paper gasket working your way around the entire gasket. when done both sides of the gasket should have a thin coating of the ultra gray that will not squish out when the parts are bolted together.

step 4: place the gasket on the part and put the part on with the correct bolts. this works goof on the timing covers on the 7m and especially the upper 5m timing cover!



HOW TO KEEP ROCKERS IN PLACE WHEN INSTALLIBNG CAMS ON 5MGE/6MGE!

this is a easy headache releiver. may sound like common sense but lots of people have asked how to do this. lol.

step 1: you need a tub of wheel bearing grease, preferably synthetic, and some rags to clean your hands.

step 2: put a dab of wheel bearing grease on the top of the hydralic lash adjuster and on the top of the valve stem with your finger. use a fair amount.

step 3: place the correct rocker on each assembly. then use the rags to wipe your hands clean of the grease.

step 4: install the cam tower on the cylinder head whiel the greas holds the rockers from being bumped off so easy.



LEAK FREE EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKET!

this is the method i use and never have a leaking exhaust manifld gasket.

step 1: you need the gasket and a tube of ultra gray and some rags.

step 2. put a decent bead around each port on the gasket wit hthe ultra gray on both sides. dont use too much. use your finger to smooth it out slightly.

step 3: place the gasket over the studs on the head and use the rags to clean the sealer off your hands

step 4: install the exhaust manifold/header and tw the nuts to spec. it is recomended to only use the stock nuts as aftermarket nuts do not distribute the tq correctly and tend to cause the studs to strip the head even when tqed to the proper amount.

when the engine is started up for the first time there will be some smoke emmiting from the gasket area for a couple min. but it only does this the once. after that its fine.



EXHAUST STUD FIX! (ill add pics when i do my other head)

not really a special trick, but something i feel should be mentioned. if your head is off the car for ANY reason. helicoil the exhaust studs. they tend to srip with age and heat cycling etc... and also after helicoiled the exhaust nuts can be tightened a lil tighter and it WONT strip!!!.

step 1. buy the proper helicoil kit. it is 10mmx1.25 and make sure you have extra inserts just in case. lol. napa sells the inserts in packs of 12. also make sure you have the proper 13/32 drill bit and a GOOD tap wrench. buy some red loctite as well and some pb blaster and brake parts cleaner.

step 2. make sure all studs are removed and everything is out of the way so you can get the tap wrench in there easily.

step 3. drill wit hthe drill bit straight into the holes all the way down till the drill bit bottoms out.

step 4. use the brake parts cleaner to blow the metal pits out.

step 5. spray some pb blaster on the tap and tap each hole. it is VERY important you tap ALL THE WAY IN!!!! if you dont bottom the tap out in the hole the inserts will not install correctly. however, be care so you dont over tap and ruin the threads you made or your in BIG trouble.

step 6. use the brake parts cleaner and clean all the holes of debri and pb blaster.

step 7. install the helicoils and be sure the tab on the coil is the first part entered. before installing them put a lil bit of red loctite on the helicoil OUTER threads only. not the inner threads. then install them till it bottoms out in the hole. if done correctly the entire coil will be inside the threaded hole in the head. take a clean exhaust stud to thread in lightly just to make sure the threads are good and correct and then remove the stud. dont leave it in.


step 8. let this dry for at least an hour if you can before putting the studs back. dont want the studs accidentally getting threadlocked in there. lol.

step 9. after it has dried, install all the exhaust studs. put the shortest threaded half in the head. then your read to install the gasket and exhaust mani/header/turbo mani etc...
 

williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
PERMANENT EGR BLOCKOFF!

if your going to do this, wait till the head and intake manifold are OFF the car. cant really do it otherwise.


step 1 buy a 3/8ths npt tap and the correct drill bit for it and a GOOD tap wrench. also some red loctite and brake parts cleaner, a SMALL magnetic pickup tool. the cheapo $1 one is perfect and a exhaust manifold stud.


step 2. remove the egr cooler off the back of the head.

step 3. use the drill bit and rill the port on the back of the head to the #6 runner. going about 3/4-7/8ths of an inch deep.

step 4. blow out the hole with brake parts cleaner. all the shavings should come otu the #6 exhaust port easily

step 5. use the 3/8ths npt tap and tap the hole occasioanlly removing the tap. blowing out and inserting the pipe plug to see how deep it will go. you want to tap enoug hthat it will be almost flush wit hthe outside of the head.

step 6. spray the hole clean with brake parts cleaner and install the 3/8ths npt pipe plug with red loctite on it. you can then ptu the cooler back on if you want. i left mine off.

step 7. drill int othe port on the intake manifold. it will likely not touch the head and just remove the carbon buildup inside. this hole is a larger diameter.

step 8. use the red tube on the brake parts cleaner. stick it in almost as far as it goes so it will spray on the back of the port and push everything out. close your eyes. lol.

step 9. slide the exhaust stud in the hole and then tap it the same depth as the back of the head. once the tap is removec use your magnetic pickup tool to pulll the stud out and it should scrap all the metal shavings out with it. dont want these getting sucked in later.

step 10. do the same trick with the brake parts cleaner as in step 8. then install the pipe plug with red loctite and enjoy all the extra room from no eger and also the back of the head will run cooler.

heres some pics showing it on my 7mgte. i should of gone deeper to make it look nicer but was in a hurry and tired as hell. lol. they will hold.

sm_photo_missing.jpg


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HOW TO WIRE ELECTRIC FANS

here is a diagram for wiring electric fans into your car. i drew it up for dual fans as alot of people use the fal fans or the ford contour fans. i used the ford contour fans and they work great. if your running a single fan you only need 1 relay and fuse of coarse.

1 thing thats very important is the fuses need to be as close to the battery as possible and id recomend using 10awg wire for each fan. if you want a removable connector with 10awg wire and 2 pins, there is one on the ford contour. has green wires. i ground both my fans to one of the stock shroud mounting points and will wire this conector in to the 2 positive wires for my fans so itll make it easier to remove the fans with the radiator as 1 unit.

now, alot of people wound say run both fans on 1 relay and fuse. i recomend each fan have its own. this way if one shorts and pops the fuse you still have 1 fan running to help prevent severe over heating.


also here is a link to the electric thermostat to control them.

electric_thermostat

sm_photo_missing.jpg


7M VALVE COVER BOLT REPLACEMENT

#1 get some #6 allen head bolts about 25-30mm long, apropriate sized washers, new valvecover gasket set wit hthe rubber bolt washers, and some blue loctite.

#2. remove the necc components to gain access to remove the vavle covers.

#3 remove the valve covers and replace the old gasket with the new ones. then place the valve covers back on the head.

#4. slide the allen head bolts through the reg washers the nthe rubber washers, rubber side down. put a small dab of blue loctite on the threads and install in the holes on the valve covers.

#5 tighten them all in equal amounts in a criss cross pattern. it is recomended to follow the tq spec in the tsrm. iirc it is 25in lbs or so. i personally tighten them by feel.

#6 reinstall all the other components you had removed.
 
Last edited:

simpsons7s

Its pronounced Nu-clear..
Oct 9, 2005
253
1
0
Riverside, Ca.
I have to add, with the first suggestion about the crank pully bolt, Don't insert anything into your engine, there are many reasons but several are, once you crush the insulated wire in the cylinder you may not get all of it back out, you may put the wire in during a intake or exaust stroke and accidently put to much sideways pressure on an open valve bending the valve, you could knock off a piece of built up carbon leaving it in the chamber to get cought in the valve face, you could overtorque and screw up your piston, rod, wristpin or bearing. The easiest and best way to remove a crank bolt is to remove the flywheel inspection cover on the back of the engine and jam a screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel to hold it from turning.
 

williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
simpsons7s;968449 said:
I have to add, with the first suggestion about the crank pully bolt, Don't insert anything into your engine, there are many reasons but several are, once you crush the insulated wire in the cylinder you may not get all of it back out, you may put the wire in during a intake or exaust stroke and accidently put to much sideways pressure on an open valve bending the valve, you could knock off a piece of built up carbon leaving it in the chamber to get cought in the valve face, you could overtorque and screw up your piston, rod, wristpin or bearing. The easiest and best way to remove a crank bolt is to remove the flywheel inspection cover on the back of the engine and jam a screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel to hold it from turning.


reread the procedure.

step 1: remove the timing belt from the cam gears, then line the cams up so the intake and exhaust valves are closed on the #1 cylinder.


when valves are closed they cant be bent!!! also, all the wire will come out. always does. this isnt something ive done once to 1 engine. this is something ive done like 40+ times and not just to supras. also, your not gonna bend the rod. the bolt would strip before it got that tight. and ive never seen a messed up rod bearing or wrist pin from this either.
 

89_turbotrev

New Member
Mar 6, 2007
8
0
0
B.c.
Got any helpful tips as to stop oil from filling up and covering my spark plugs. I pull out the wires and I cannont see my plugs cause there is so much oil inside of the housing...
 

williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
yes, by new valve cover gaskets, then buy some #6 allen head ss bolts with washers to replace the stock philips head screws. they need to be i beleive 30mm long. but just measure a stock screw to be sure. put a lil dab of blue loctite on the thread of the new allen head bolts before installing and they should hold the valve covers down nice and tight with the new gaskets. then no more oil on your plugs.
 

grnmk3

New Member
May 31, 2007
36
0
0
San Diego
when replacing the valve cover gasket should the owner put some permatex all around the new gasket or just in the 4 front corners? i'm asking because i've searched around in sm how everyones fixed their valve cover gasket problem and it sounded like owners do it differently. which is best? permatex all around the gasket or just in the front corners? thank you.
 

AJ'S 88NA

New Member
Jul 26, 2007
2,419
0
0
Florida
grnmk3;1006649 said:
when replacing the valve cover gasket should the owner put some permatex all around the new gasket or just in the 4 front corners? i'm asking because i've searched around in sm how everyones fixed their valve cover gasket problem and it sounded like owners do it differently. which is best? permatex all around the gasket or just in the front corners? thank you.
I believe you are suppose to use RTV in the sharp corners in the front, at least that's what I use.
 

WhtMa71

D0 W3RK
Apr 24, 2007
1,813
0
36
Macon, GA
I rub a small amount of grey RTV all around the gaskets when theyre installed in the valve covers as well as a liberal amount on the 4 corners and around the cam area. Then use loctite on the screws as well, havnt had a leak yet.
 

grnmk3

New Member
May 31, 2007
36
0
0
San Diego
Sounds good. I'll try the all around gasket and 4 corner procedure. Hopefully that will seal up the valve cover. Thank you.
 
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williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
i never put gasket sealer on any part of the valve cover gasket and have had NO leaks. just get the allen head bolts and new gaskets. by using the allen head bolts you can tighten the covers down a bit more then with the philips head screws so gasket sealer isnt needed. it is a rubber gasket after all. just make sure the surface is wiped clean before putting it on. the blue loctite is to just insure they dont back out from engine vibration over time.
 

Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
967
0
0
54
Louisville, KY
williamb82;980898 said:
yes, by new valve cover gaskets, then buy some #6 allen head ss bolts with washers to replace the stock philips head screws. they need to be i beleive 30mm long. but just measure a stock screw to be sure. put a lil dab of blue loctite on the thread of the new allen head bolts before installing and they should hold the valve covers down nice and tight with the new gaskets. then no more oil on your plugs.

Don't forget the 12 in-lb torque spec (I believe that's right - double check the tsrm) for the valve cover fasteners. Make sure you have consistent torque all the way around the covers. Since switching to the phillips head screws and making sure they were evenly torqued, I haven't had a drop of oil in my spark plug galley.
 
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7MGTEsup

Formerly 'Down but not out'
Jun 14, 2005
614
0
0
England
I found after a couple of years head scratching and numerous re fittings of my valve covers that the leaks were coming ffrom the number 3 valve cover. remove the number 3 cover clean all surfaces with acitone put a thin bead of RTV around each of the 4 seating surfces for the plugs, then put thread locker on the plugs and re assemble should be leak free now.
 

grnmk3

New Member
May 31, 2007
36
0
0
San Diego
Thanks everyone! I've got the allen head ss bolts, washers, new gaskets, thread lock, rtv and all tools. I'm ready to play this weekend.
 

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
2,844
0
0
Tracy, CA
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