Took a few passes on my fresh motor to help seat the rings. Accidentally reached 6500 rpm redline shifting a little too slow. Lost power to tach, water temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, power windows. Engine fine. Have power to starter, ignition, power mirrors. Immediate problem is how to get the power windows up. Circuit breaker OK. Disconnected the battery to reset the ECU in case it had some kind of protection. Any suggestions?
Lost part of electrical when engine hit redline
- Thread starter Integrity
- Start date
This is a new one to me. Have you checked ALL the fuses both inside the car and under the hood?
As for the windows, either park it inside or find the motor harness and use 12 volts to bring the window up.
As for the windows, either park it inside or find the motor harness and use 12 volts to bring the window up.
Problem solved. Just one fuse bad. I missed it prior. Thanks. Wonder why it chose redline to blow. Perhaps a coincidence. Perhaps the alternator voltage regulator didn't do its job.
damn, Your engine must love to Rev.... I've never hit redline before.. my car just doesn't have the throttle response 
(I can almost take a nap in the time it takes my car to hit redline >.>)
(I can almost take a nap in the time it takes my car to hit redline >.>)I did some mild porting to the cylinder head when doing an otherwise stock rebuild. (I used to be a professional engine builder.) Prior owner of the car installed a K&N filter and better flowing muffler. All 4-valve per cyclinder engines tend to be a little low on torque below 3500 rpm due to port velocities being too slow. Actually, my engine pulls harder and harder as it approaches redline, despite having stock cams. The cast pistons are the weak link, so if I push it, I will grenade the motor. This is my first Supra ownership. I have a spare engine core and parts car, but if I build another one, it will likely be an engine swap. I agree the off-line torque is too low. That's to be expected considering the engine dsplacement, stroke, and 4-valve per cylinder arrangement. A lower gear ratio is another option to help the car launch, but I don't want to mess with this daily driver too much.
woooooowww.... I would love my car to keep pulling all the way to redline... right now it feels like it drops off after 4500rpm... so theres no point it holding one gear over 5k for any reason T.T.... Not going to matter soon though, it looks like I have a another BHG and if thats the case, well.. The car may have to go, cause I just can't afford another head gasket or the time off work it would take me alone to do the job. (I'm still new to the whole mechanic thing )
Anyway, good luck with yours If your "gauge" fuse blew you may want to look into why, for me it was one loose wire that the last owner just left dangling (I blew mine 4 times in one day and had a real OMGWTF!?!? moment)
)Anyway, good luck with yours
If your "gauge" fuse blew you may want to look into why, for me it was one loose wire that the last owner just left dangling (I blew mine 4 times in one day and had a real OMGWTF!?!? moment)Sorry to hear about your repeat BHG problem. If you re-used the stock head bolts, you might check to be sure none of the head bolts were stretched. An easy way to do that is to hold the bolt you want to check against a known good bolt. The threads should mesh / match together. If they don't, the one bolt being checked is bad.
no, I didnt reuse the stockers, I got ARPs... though after trying to re-torque them today and doing a second compression test I think it might be worse then a head gasket.... me thinks my piston rings are fried *runs into a corner and crys*... I got super random compression across the board.... Like how number 1 makes 40 PSI while 6 makes 180 and 4 makes 80.... lol ... just cant seem to win with this car and I don't have $2500 to send off the motor to boostlogic and tell them to "make it run" lol so... sadly the car will have to go T.T....
The reason I say this is because I think the car was pushing coolant not because of the compression leak but because of a small coolant leak i found today (air got in the system and boiled the water) so that made the low comp LOOK like BHG... but it still doesn't change the fact that it looks like the engine needs a FULL top to bottom rebuild witch i just cant do >.>.....
The reason I say this is because I think the car was pushing coolant not because of the compression leak but because of a small coolant leak i found today (air got in the system and boiled the water) so that made the low comp LOOK like BHG... but it still doesn't change the fact that it looks like the engine needs a FULL top to bottom rebuild witch i just cant do >.>.....
