Looking for some feedback/info on cams...
- Thread starter CajunKenny
- Start date
Depends on mods, but adjustable cam gears are usually necessary with aftermarket cams so they can be properly degree'd
allen600;1669882 said:
Of the the above three choices, I'd say 264's with adjustable cam gears; but, as Poodles pointed out, it's kind of an open ended question...
Well we shall se how 272's act with my setup...just picked up a set last night! I'm thinking I like the Fidanza cam gears' design as well.
allen600;1669882 said:
Not really going to see any power gains with stock cams+pullies..... All it's going to do is shift the powerband around some then the Dyno will lie when it see's a stronger pull up onto the ramp.
I never understood why people always say "cams make power, so I have to get them."
They don't make power, they shift it. You can say they "make" power in a different part of the powerband.
I was told cams made power and Google told me otherwise....
They don't make power, they shift it. You can say they "make" power in a different part of the powerband.
I was told cams made power and Google told me otherwise....
IBoughtASupra;1669976 said:
Incorrect, they do "make power" if the lift/duration is greater than stock you get a bigger window for cylinder filling and a bigger boom.
BC 264's are the way to go. Just upgrade to comp cams, they are cheap.
A lot of people upgrade to 264's on a 1JZ but it is made as a stock replacement just a little bit aggressive, at least HKS is, BC has different stages of 264's.
On a 7M, you would want a mid to low range cam because of the lower redline.
So while you are leaving your wife to hug the Teddy bear and sleep at night Kenny, you can throw in the Comp cams and 264's. :nono
A lot of people upgrade to 264's on a 1JZ but it is made as a stock replacement just a little bit aggressive, at least HKS is, BC has different stages of 264's.
On a 7M, you would want a mid to low range cam because of the lower redline.
So while you are leaving your wife to hug the Teddy bear and sleep at night Kenny, you can throw in the Comp cams and 264's. :nono
Does anyone know what the limit of the stock valve springs are before the shims get tossed?
I've heard that 264's are the limit; but, since there are different duration/lift combinations, I don't think that's a good "rule of thumb" to go by.
I've heard that 264's are the limit; but, since there are different duration/lift combinations, I don't think that's a good "rule of thumb" to go by.
CajunKenny;1670186 said:
It's more a geometry/lift thing NOT springs, the bigger Cams actually "wipe" the Shim off the top...
So what is the general lift/duration point when solid/underbucket shims becomes a necessity? I was looking at a set of Toda cams (288/304 waaaay too much for my car) but they only had ~8.5mm lift. Made me think about that since toda made an underbucket shim kit...
IJ.;1670200 said:
Damn! Here I go again. Ian I hope you can chime in here. I know I asked about this awhile ago in my build thread but I didn't press the issue with JE.
I'm using billet cams from Rich @ SIP. 9.2 MM lift, 268 duration @ 0.00 lift & 234 duration @ .050 lift--specs Rich gave me.
Before I 1st start this engine it sounds like I should press the issue and go ahead and change to Shimless buckets? What's another month after 2 years?
Also, where can I source Shimless buckets?
IJ.;1670200 said:
BC's specs on their 272's are 8.68 mm of lift. They feel that upgraded springs and retainers are necessary.
Isn't that to keep the shims where they're supposed to be? Is it really necessary or is that a marketing ploy? :sarcasm:
I believe them on the springs, but the retainers are a mystery for me... myself and Rob (92NSX) are running the comp cams BBC springs , and Rob hasn't had any issues that I'm aware of. (Aside from uber lean at idle=crappy idle+dies)
Main reason for the springs would be to prevent coil bind and make sure the vaves close on-time. Dual springs have more closing/seat pressure in theory, plus have a backup plan if a spring breaks. I think IJ had an outer spring break at one time, so it does happen!
I would like to hear reasons for retainer upgrade needs, though! (IJ...?)
Main reason for the springs would be to prevent coil bind and make sure the vaves close on-time. Dual springs have more closing/seat pressure in theory, plus have a backup plan if a spring breaks. I think IJ had an outer spring break at one time, so it does happen!
I would like to hear reasons for retainer upgrade needs, though! (IJ...?)
Direct from Toyota Fred.SWD Fredester 3;1670313 said:
1SZ-FE 1000cc Echo
13751-23030 5.12
13751-23040 5.14
13751-23050 5.16
13751-23060 5.18
13751-23070 5.20
13751-23080 5.22
13751-23090 5.24
13751-23100 5.26
13751-23110 5.28
13751-23120 5.30
13751-23130 5.32
13751-23140 5.34
13751-23150 5.36
13751-23160 5.38
13751-23170 5.40
13751-23180 5.42
13751-23190 5.44
13751-23200 5.46
13751-23210 5.48
13751-23220 5.50
13751-23230 5.52
13751-23240 5.54
13751-23250 5.56
13751-23260 5.58
13751-23270 5.60
13751-23280 5.62
13751-23290 5.64
13751-23300 5.66
13751-23310 5.68
For correct Valve control at redline Kenny, I guess you could look at it that if it doesn't bounce there's less chance of wiping a shim off the top but that's more a geometry issue.CajunKenny;1670356 said:
I run Duals in all of my engines for the redundancy/safety factor, break a spring (and it WILL happen if you hold it at redline for extended periods/often so don't kid yourselves on this one)toyotanos;1671191 said:
Upgrading rertainers while not stricly needed is usually done so they're compatible with the new Springs and most run a different/stronger angle on the Locks.
