Lets talk about head shaving

Tire Shredder

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Sep 15, 2005
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Hey guys,

I've done a search on this and only found a few, half-assed, non-dedicated threads that don't discuss it thoroughly enough.

I'm doing research for my 7M-GE engine build up, with desire to increase compression in the quest for more power.

from my calculations, decreasing the gasket thickness by approximately 1mm (39 thousandths of an inch) would provide a standard 7mge with a compression ratio of 10.5:1...which seems like the safe limit for 91 octane fuel. such an increase will theoretically net a 7hp gain at the flywheel. Since the head must be machined and I usually use premium gas anyways, it seems like a worthwhile thought.

obviously the ideal way to increase this compression is by higher compression/higher dome pistons, but that may not be the most efficient way to do it if your bottom end is still in good shape.

Now, it's not possible to purchase a .37mm thick headgasket (stock is 1.37mm) so material must be removed from either the block or head, to reduce the effective deck height. To avoid changes in the combustion chamber, this material would ideally be removed from the block. upon visual inspection, the pistons already seem dangerously close to the gasket surface, and thus contacting the head. Head squish is great, but I'd rather not reduce that safety margin.

This means our sights need to be set on the head. "fine" you're thinking, just shave some off of there. Well, That's what I'm thinking too, so long as any drawbacks are considered:

Piston to Valve Clearance
if keeping the motor non-interference is important (and it should be) this must be considered, including the use of aftermarket camshafts if planned that have extra lift.

I had a conversation with ED of toymods.net fame over the phone and he suggested there was " *ahem* loads of space", even after removing a total of 40 thou from the block and head combined, he measured 1.2mm of clearance still remaining.

Timing Belt Slack
This is often an argument against shaving the head, why? has anybody measured how much belt the timing belt tensioner can compensate for? I can't imagine Toyota's safety factor for such a thing to be so small that the belt's tension is compromised when only 1mm worth of material is removed. The tensioner would effectively have to take up 2mm worth of slack, since the belt completes a loop and this height change effects both the left and right side of the belt.

Valve Timing
This is a valid downside...but not a certain one. I measured the cam gears diameter to be 120mm...this means the circumference is 377mm. dividing this by 360 degrees means each mm moved on the outside diameter means 1.05 degrees of rotation. Applying the 2mm of movement to this degree change means 2.1 degrees of movement will be present at each of the gears.

The 7m has one tensioner, located on the exhaust side....so this 2 degrees of movement will rotate both cam gears counterclockwise (retarded).

To correct this, adjustable cam gears can be fitted, the bolts loosened and the cams advanced 2 degrees to set them back to stock.

I've heard "it won't run right even with adjustable gears, it screws up the timing." I fail to see how this is possible, the cam gears diameter does not change, nor does the crank pulley...since the gear ratios remain the same I fail to see how the timing can be wrong or changed at all if the cam gears are adjusted properly.

Combustion Chamber Shape
another valid drawback, but upon visual inspection, it doesn't like like it will change that much....how I'd quantify this, I don't know...but with material removed, the combustion chamber would also have a decrease in volume....I don't know what side effects this may have as I haven't taken internal combustion engines yet in school (next year). However, the bore side of the chamber will have a smaller diameter, increasing head squish area, which is definitely a good thing.

so the question remains, is this a draw back or a benefit? I'm not educated enough to tell...

Ignition Timing
this has been another argument against removing material. in my mind, everything I stated about valve timing applies to this too. The gear on the cams and the gear on the distributor both stay the same, turning at the same speed with respect to one another. Again, if the cam gears are set up with the same TDC relationship, I fail to see how this can be negatively effected.

Fuel type
to avoid detonation, premium fuel must be used




obviously, these key areas would need to be measured and inspected to give definite answers. I'd love to hear some other's thoughts on this subject, and if anybody has measured any of these key parameters. Please feel free to correct my thoughts or errors in calculations.

Steve
 

Tire Shredder

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Sep 15, 2005
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thanks for mentioning alan's build.

I've read every post but it doesn't really apply to the theory or purpose I discussed. I'm mainly frustrated with the HUGE amounts of misinformation I found when researching this subject.
 

Ma70.Ent

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Feb 26, 2006
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I found out a little information from certain people here and posted it in the N/A Upgrade FAQ, but now we actually have a topic like this, we can get some good information now.

EDIT: Here's the information I had in the FAQ. Not sure if you've seen it or anything, so I'll just post it up for thoughts.

drjonez said:
shaving the head to up CR isn't the best idea as the combustion chamber gets all wacky then

IJ said:
It affects the "Squish band" and the Quench of the head and changes how it burns the fuel.

Nick M said:
It also takes the engine slightly out of time. It will still run, but it won't be straight up. And unlike cam gears, you can't tweak it.
 

HommerSimpson

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Dec 31, 2007
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I noticed when building my Engine.. You can move the cam gears to the left hole or right hole ( dowl ) and if i remmber corectly it was like 1/2 tooth one way and 1/2 tooth the other... And if thats what you need then I would asume it would work rather then buying 189 dollar set gears if thats not in someones budget... Anyone every set theres this way ? I acually added a timing belt roller to the intake side to help belt deflection... I have not had chance to play with timming sence i rebuilt but before i found if i retarded exh just a tad i gained some power.. well it felt like it...
 
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gofastgeorge

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Jan 24, 2008
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Head shaving is just a fad,
it will go the same way as hair over the shoulders did in the late '70s.

Just kidding.......:naughty:
 

Tire Shredder

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oh, Dean Marcum's record setting 13.8 second NA mk3 had a shaved head, to the same compression ratio I am considering aswell. The small details however are unknown.
 

Asterix

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Mar 31, 2005
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My head lost 0.030" when it got rebuilt maybe 10.000 miles ago because of warpage. My memory of my compression ratio calculation is certainly wrong, so I'd have to do it again. It runs quite well on mid-grade gas once the cold-start injector quits. The car has never seen a dyno, so I couldn't say what the HP is. It does feel like it has more than it ever did. Since I didn't put it together, I can't say how the cam gears are lined up, but they probably were lined up as the manual says.

As for the change in the combustion chamber, wouldn't domed or wedged pistons mess it up, too?

If the cam gears and crank are lined up with the belt on, how can the timing be off? Does 1 degree make all that much difference? If you're trying to squeeze out that last fraction of a HP, I can see, but for me, it's within tolerance. It sounds like Toyota put 1/2 tooth of adjustment in there, so as long as you're within 1/2 tooth, your good to them.

Asterix
 

Doward

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Jan 11, 2006
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Read MA70's post.

Dr J is correct, because of the reasons IJ mentions. Nick is wrong, for the reasons the OP posted.

That said, if you were determined to go this route, this is the way I would go -

Go ahead and cut the head to the height you want. At this point, I suggest a set of cam gears to take up the difference as per OP's post.

1mm of material removal is going to alter the squish band - it is going to actually (if I'm visualizing this right) widen the band. A set of flattops with a very slight reverse dome mapped to the new combustion chamber would be optimal, but I don't feel it would be absolutely 100% necessary.

Be sure to polish the combustion chambers, as you can not afford any hot spots at that point.
 

AJ'S 88NA

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Jul 26, 2007
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Sounds like a lot of "ifs" and "maybes". I think I'd go the safe route and get different pistons to increase the compression ratio. That's what I did. If you are looking at a few HP to take a chance like that IDK. Just my opinion.:)
 

Ma70.Ent

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IJ.;955688 said:
<sitting waiting for the infractions from the GE Tech Mod> :slap:

I don't think the GE section has a mod!

Oh yeah Doward, thanks for that info. I updated the FAQ and removed that quote from Nick :D
 

Tire Shredder

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Asterix;955659 said:
My head lost 0.030" when it got rebuilt maybe 10.000 miles ago because of warpage. My memory of my compression ratio calculation is certainly wrong, so I'd have to do it again. It runs quite well on mid-grade gas once the cold-start injector quits. The car has never seen a dyno, so I couldn't say what the HP is. It does feel like it has more than it ever did. Since I didn't put it together, I can't say how the cam gears are lined up, but they probably were lined up as the manual says.

As for the change in the combustion chamber, wouldn't domed or wedged pistons mess it up, too?

If the cam gears and crank are lined up with the belt on, how can the timing be off? Does 1 degree make all that much difference? If you're trying to squeeze out that last fraction of a HP, I can see, but for me, it's within tolerance. It sounds like Toyota put 1/2 tooth of adjustment in there, so as long as you're within 1/2 tooth, your good to them.

Asterix

with that much material removed, you should be close to 2degrees off (from my calculations) which does make a difference. Without adjustable cam gears, it is not possible to put them back to stock spec.

it's interesting to hear you haven't noticed any negative side effects and is a good thing (for me).

IJ - Can you elaborate? That cutaway is fantastic, but I only see positive things. It looks like the actual chamber dome starts about 4mm in, meaning the head squish band won't change...

Doward - see my reply to IJ lol. I have already polished my combustion chamber to help aid in increasing thermal efficiency, reducing hotspots and carbon build up. That being said, most of the literate I have read suggests that 10.5:1 with premium still leaves are reasonable safety margin for detonation. Obviously I'm just guessing but I don't think polishing is a must. regardless, it's already done. I'm sure if you're used to reading about turbo engines 10.5:1 sounds like a massive increase, but it's really just over 1 compression point, and without boost...isn't very extreme.



sorry for coming off technical about this stuff. I'm just frustrated with misinformation (like Nick M's post) that nobody contests. I really want to get to the bottom of the drawbacks so we can properly weigh the pro's and cons. Even then we're working off theory, it would be amazing to hear more stories from those that have actually done it. Asterix's post is a start.
 

Supracentral

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Mar 30, 2005
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Just by becoming SuperMod didn't get you off the hook for this section, liver lips...

threaddirection.jpg


Back on topic kids... (Now I'm doing your job for you.. There's something wrong with this..)
 

Ma70.Ent

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Feb 26, 2006
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Tire Shredder;955702 said:
sorry for coming off technical about this stuff. I'm just frustrated with misinformation (like Nick M's post) that nobody contests. I really want to get to the bottom of the drawbacks so we can properly weigh the pro's and cons. Even then we're working off theory, it would be amazing to hear more stories from those that have actually done it. Asterix's post is a start.

I'm glad you made this topic. For all the N/A guys who don't feel taking apart the whole engine, this is actually a life saver...if it's safe :)