Let's talk about hardware..and other stuffs

[gaboonviper85]

Ok so as some know...

I've started the long bank draining process of going n/a-t....my shortblock is at the shop now...talked to him today and so far the crank is in mint condition but needs a polishing...I will know if it's straight tomorrow but odds are it is...block has yet to be tanked and magnafluxed (but he commented in how nice this block is) so I'm not worried....anyway...

What's worth going arp...I think I should go arp on the mains, rods, and head studs....but is there something else I should use arp with? Or is everything else overkill?

Another thing....this motor is being built for 3-500 hp so nothing too extream...keeping factory rods but going forged pistons....sense my crank is mint (6m) what should I shoot for as far as oil clearance? I really don't want to cut the crank but Im under the understanding that these motors like loose clearance at that hp rateing?

Also...who would y'all recomend as a 1 stop shop for arp hardware...I don't want to be raped unless they take me to dinner first!

 

[Zumtizzle]

^SupraRich. Send him a PM.

Best Sales Experiences i have come from him.

ARP Flywheel Bolts for a 4AGE work for our cranks.

According to Adjuster ARP Main's are over kill.

Read his write up in the Internals SME section.

 

[gaboonviper85]

I have a feeling arp mains are cheaper than new toyota mains....and I don't have the old ones...guess I'll try to get ahold of a friend who has them.

Thanks!

 

[Koenigturbo]

Another thing....this motor is being built for 3-500 hp so nothing too extream...

I know you said three to five,
Is 500 h.p. even possible on a n/a?

 

[gaboonviper85]

The motor that's being built is a 7m gte...not n/a....and no it's not possible on an n/a without spraying..

 

[Poodles]

no no NO on the loose clearances.

Unless you're building for thick oil (IJ), don't deviate from the TSRM's specs in clearances.

Depending on cash level, ARP main studs aren't really needed as the stock mains are plenty strong (inline engines rock, we have 7 mains while a V8 only has 5). If you do go this route they need the studs before any align honing as the studs distort the mains differently than bolts.

Getting the ARPs for the rods and getting them prepped will make them pretty damn durable (IIRC Duane was over 600HP with shotpeened stock rods). Cheap insurance and it will be best to tighten to stretch and not to torque.

Head studs/bolts is a no-brainer.

You can go the route Duane did and replace damn near all the fasteners on the engine with ARP's, but that gets pricey :rofl:

 

[gaboonviper85]

Guess I'll stick with the stock hardware cause the motor doesn't need an aliegnhone done and I'd rather not do it just to switch hardware..

Ok thanks poodles for setting me straight on the oil clearance thing!!

This motor was in much much better condition then expected accept rust in the cylinders....looks like the major money will be in the head.