Lean idle...and stuff

nothingbetter

New Member
May 24, 2010
26
0
0
alberta
Hey all. Heres the scoop. I have an jdm 7mgte stuffed into an 85 toyota pickup. I bought it from a guy who did the swap, then the engine died and he sold it to me. It ran when I bought it but had 2 cracked pistons so I didn't run it long...just wanted to be sure it did. So I rebuilt the engine, and now I'm having some issues. I've been driving it for about 14xxxkm. I've searched high and low all over the internet and can't find the anwsers so I figured its about time I finally started a thread of my own. For mods, as far as I know of, the engine internals are stock, it has a 3inch exhaust from the turbo back (not including the elbow) with apexi muff, k&n filter, top mount subaru intercooler with hard piping (no room for front mount) hks ssqv bov, electric fan, apexi safc, autometer wideband with new sensor. No egr (blocked off), Probally a few other things too. The turbo was rebuilt at the same time the engine was. As far as I know of it has stock injectors.

Its running very lean at idle. (wideband tops out at 16.2 and thats where it sits) It will barely run when at stock settings so I have to use the safc to tune it to driveable limits. I have it tuned up to %50 correction and its still lean off the wideband. The weird thing is that its lean untill I hit 2000rpm (seems to be exactly 2000rpm) and then its fine from there and above. It gets rich under boost but that seems normal.

4-5 times last fall when idiling to let the turbo cool down, its like something electronic connected and the problem fixed itself (caused me to go rich because of the safc tuning but whatever) so that leads me to think its something electronic but I have no idea what it could be. After I tried cleaning my afm and had to get a new one, it hasn't happened since.

I have an adjustable fuel pressure gauge and its sitting at 36psi. I've turned it up to 70psi with no change in the afr. I put in a new o2 sensor and afm so I know thats not the problem. The timing is set to 10 btdc (with the jumper wire in) and the cam gears are aligned perfectly with the little marks on the backing plate. At idle I'm pulling 20in of vaccum. My throttle plate is completly closing and the tps is set according to the tsrm.

I really hope someone can help me out as this is driving me crazy. I'm pulling a knock sensor code which turns on the CEL at 10in of vac and I believe 51.
 
Last edited:

hvyman

Dang Dude! No Way Man.
Staff member
Apr 17, 2007
12,568
1
0
Fullerton,CA
51 is cause you dont have a mk3 with a/c hooked up.

Have you tried unplugging the safc?

Leave the fuel pressure at 36psi.

Do you have the fuel pressure vsv hooked up under the intake manifold?

Fyi you should think about installing the egr. Its not a bad thing and it doesnt effect your hp. Doent even get used at wot.
Also if i was you i would ditch the k&n and buy either a apexi or aem dry flow.
 

nothingbetter

New Member
May 24, 2010
26
0
0
alberta
I would love to have a totally stock engine for troubleshooting purposes but its a tight squeeze to get it in a pickup. The fire walls been beat with a hammer to get the coolant hose out of the back of the head to fit and the rad support has been cut and a custom rad support was installed 3" forward of the stock location. And that leaves me with about 1/2" between my crank belt pully and my electric fan. I can't get a finger between the egr block off plate and the fire wall so I don't think theres room. Plus I don't have it.

The fuel pressure vsv is hooked up. What does that do anyways?

I've got another short story for ya. I've actually rebuilt the engine twice. The first time was right after I bought it. got it back in and fired it up for the first time, started great, but then shut off after 3 seconds of running. Rats. tried it again. same things. Double rats. so after spending countless hours trying to figure it out, I towed it to an import shop 2.5 hours away and he figured it out in about 30 seconds. During the rebuild I switched 2 wires going into the coil pack. The ecu would say "uh oh" and shut off. So once I got that sorted out it ran great for 3000km. not a single problem. Then it started misfiring. Low compression. Turns out the rings didn't seat during the constant run for 3 seconds thing. So I rebuilt it again (yuck) and then it had this lean at idle thing right from the start. With (as far as I knew) the exact same settings as previous.

This makes me think its something beyond simple that i forgot but I've checked everything I can possibly think of and more.
 

nothingbetter

New Member
May 24, 2010
26
0
0
alberta
I was told its from a subaru, its mounted in the space right above the tubo and has hard tubing across the valve covers to the intake. Pretty much anywhere would be a better place for it due to the heat coming off the turbo but its the only spot I have. Shes a tight squeeze.

I forgot to mention, as soon as I down shift it goes super lean instantly if that helps anyone.
 

roadboy

Supra Owner
Jan 22, 2008
456
0
16
34
Toronto, Ontario
lol i want to see pics of that intercooler mount.

btw: mine would go lean when im downshifting. im guessing thats normal due to no pressing on gas while sucking in air (correct me if im wrong)
 

nothingbetter

New Member
May 24, 2010
26
0
0
alberta
so I don't know if this is progress or not, but I was tinkering under the hood this afternoon and found that if I pinched off that short hose on the front of the intake manifold connecting the mani to the "vaccuum rail" , the first time I did it, it shut off, but the second time it sputtered, corrected itself, stayed running and became a bit richer. Hovered around a 15.5 on the wideband. The only things that are hooked to the vaccuum rail are my powersteering, bov, and fuel vsv. But I can pinch off any one of those seperatly and theres no change. any ideas?
 

nothingbetter

New Member
May 24, 2010
26
0
0
alberta
so I made some head way tonight. I realized that one of my knock sensors was in the wrong spot, I moved it so it was right by the starter instead of the middle hole. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! It gained instant power, throttle response, BOV is more active, turbo spools up faster and now idles without hesitation or misfiring with no correction on my safc. Who'da thought eh? But...it still runs lean at idle (just not as bad). I can use the safc to make it run at 14.7ish but within 30seconds its back to full lean. Its like it corrects itself to be lean?
 

nothingbetter

New Member
May 24, 2010
26
0
0
alberta
got it...gasket between the turbo elbow and the exhaust was mostly missing. It was leaking after my o2 sensor but before my wideband. My o2 sensor got the right reading but but the wideband was giving me the reading with some of the gasses escaping.