LDz Project Car II - 89 Turbo - NOW 1JZ

[LordDigital]

Changed the WG spring to 8psi. First buttDyno session passed today. AFR's are in the 11.0 do 11.5 range. It pulls quite well on 3th to redLine:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnUoxgWfqdo


It sux that on 4th ,with the same exact settings and AFR curve - the ECU cuts the fuel at around 6200rpm. Does not make too much sense to me ,will look at the logs again tomorrow...

 

[annoyingrob]

It sux that on 4th ,with the same exact settings and AFR curve - the ECU cuts the fuel at around 6200rpm. Does not make too much sense to me ,will look at the logs again tomorrow...

Higher gear will put more load on the motor, which can cause your turbo to creep if your WG is too small.

 

[LordDigital]

Higher gear will put more load on the motor, which can cause your turbo to creep if your WG is too small.

OverBoost was actually my immediate guess cosnidering ... IMHO very poor disCharge desogn on the MTR Long Runner (aka drewgo manifold).

I log 5 chanels (Boost ,EGT ,AFR ,... all the way to Oil Pressure past restrictor iff PLX works). Today I lokked at it again ,and realizied what it was - a SpeedCut. JDM regulation sux0rz Send payPal to cnewingham for the GReddy Speed Cut Defender and in the meanTime will look for that P-Hack Mod to get rid of it :evil2:

 

[annoyingrob]

lol@ speed cut.

Well, atleast that's easy to fix.

You want a really simple hack to remove it: cut the pink wire (speed sensor), and route the ECU side of it to one of the injector wires. That way it still gets a signal, and doesn't throw a CEL.

 

[LordDigital]

lol@ speed cut.

Well, atleast that's easy to fix.

You want a really simple hack to remove it: cut the pink wire (speed sensor), and route the ECU side of it to one of the injector wires. That way it still gets a signal, and doesn't throw a CEL.

10z for the suggestion I would rather not mess with injector drivers - 10 years ago I was trying to measure the Max_duty on my Cosworth ,with apperantly not so highZ logger ,ended up loosing a piston...

If I do not get the GReddy SCD untill the weekend ,I will disconnect the ping wire for the Dyno day in Indianapolis :naughty:

 

[LordDigital]

In the last few days ,I've spend a lot of time debugging a blue smoke issue.

When the car was cold ,or after 5000rpm it was smoking reeeeallly bad - mostly bluish smoke. Knowing that the engine was good ,I concentrated on the turbo issues aka known as "oil leaking past the seal problem".

Having the "ATP-OIL-030" it was not so hard to debug. Again I'm not pointing fingers but for me the The Drewgo (‘s) Manifold (originally designed by MTR) was angled way to much in the IMO in the wrong direction. There might be a super special fitting ,for the drain that I’m not aware of but the 45 degrees Earls fitting was hitting the manifold flange at least 10 degrees off of the proper turbo clocking.

I had to grind the fitting ,grind the manifold and finally grind the turbo to get it clocked properly! It does not sound too hard ,but doing in the engine bay was definitely not phun at all…

Once the turbo was properly clocked ,the smoke is totally gone. I recommend to anyone using GT35 or lager turbo on Drewgo Mani to double check their clocking couz turbo leaks past the seal are not good for your turbo ,and for cars driving behind you too

Here is a shot of Ball Bearing installation kit ,to clarify what turbo clocking is all about:

 

[LordDigital]

We are also pretty much done with the mapping. Budd dyno and 2 tank of gas ,did it. I guess that I could push a little more ,but AVC-R shows 85% duty on the injectors at around 7kRPM so 16psi on GT35R is probably around the maximum on Aristo Injectors.

If we solve our pipe popping problem (I'll try double clamps and even JB weld due to lack of flaring tool...) I'm hoping for 400rwhp on the Dyno at the meet

Here is a screen shot of the last log:

 

[LordDigital]

Here is a good example (from today's 1/2 tank tuning session) - of how the lack of timing control ,could easily kill engines:

AFR = 11.3:

AFR = 12.00

I'm tuning the car on a mix of 100 and 93 fuel ,so I'm safe ,BUT if someone decided to lean it to 12.5 on street gas ... the AFR=12.5 image woul've been ka(B00m).jpg

 

[LordDigital]

I was always wondering ,how would my car perform going downhill on a super steep slope of 80+ degrees. I’ve been searching and searching around the world for the slope of my dreams ,but apparently no engineer would ever build a road like that because it would’ve require a Dry-Sump bulldozers…

Today the guys at E-MOTORS were finally able to solve my problem! They successfully simulated a 80+ degrees downhill drop of my Supra on their brand new Dyno! I was amazed ,the car actually accelerated from 40 to 120mph in less than 3 seconds!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pBwJpr4Ccg

 

[Quin]

At least they could get it on the dyno!

It sounded like it was serious business. That dyno was definitely jacked up, you're making WAY more power than that. It went from like 3000-7000 in an instant.

Nice to meet you, btw

 

[mk3forme]

how much power did you end up with anyway?

 

[LordDigital]

how much power did you end up with anyway?

Of the 4 pulls ,turbo managed to spool to 10.6psi only once and the car made 306rwhp. I just checked my log files from the last few days ,and the one from the dyno is very similar to what happens when I spin my tires on 2nd gear

Here is the log from the dyno Pull ,looks like that even the ECU could not cach up with the RPM and the AFRs were in the 13 range at 7kRPM - I guess that the MPU frequency was a little tooooo low for such a run :biglaugh:

 

[LordDigital]

Whent to the dragStrip a few weeks back.

Could not launch ,of courz (who can do it with MK3 anyways? ) - I was not there for the launches couz I needed my clutch for the track season ached so my 60 feet times where 2.45+s.

Then my tranny whet from bad to worse ,shifting from 5th to 4th have never been so bad ,2nd to 3rd is even harder ,2nd to 4th is not even a possibility... I tried to Toyota Bushings ,and marlinCrawler stuff but no luck. Replaced the shifter with Sogi Hacked ,no improvement...

Anyways I got a few passes past 110MPH mark which is what I went for even tough my upShift from second to third was well over 0.5sec according to my dataLog!

Vid of one of the runs:

Vid of the shifting issues:

 

[LordDigital]

Whent to 4 or so AutoX events.

MayWood with the Audi Club and then TireRack with Michiana BMW CCA. Got some R1 slicks ,but only tried them once on the tireRack track surface. As I suspected ,the front is mostly touching the ground with the very edge of the tire. With the slicks this showed with the heat distribution and the obvious tireWare after 4 or 5 runs.

Now I have the maximum camber allowed by the lower control arms (-1 degree) ,but hey Group A Supras were running what I belive was less then negative 4 camber up in front.

Officially i got a conformation from JIC Magic that their adjustable upper control arms ( UCA ) (UCAs) moved from status of “...will be discontinued once sold all inventory" to Not Availible period - so their stock in Japan have been completely sold…

HRP have no idea what is Supra... drjonez is the only one who have the info on the right hotRod parts used to construct adjustable A-Arms ,but in the meanTime I'll have cut some stock arms to make them shorter...


Anyways 2 vidz of the last weekends 2 day event at the TireRack facility in South Bend ,IN:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VL2IRvqplE0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IjJ92lNHUU

 

[LordDigital]

And one more Event.

This was the "realThing" ,a trackDay at the Autobahn Country Club full (3.56 mile road course). The Organiation was flawless and we did get 8 runs of 25 minutes each. Just to give you and idea ,I went with full tank and just before lunch time I was almost out of gas. The load on the car was so extreme ,that the EGT on each session after the strt would never go under 720C and would touch 820 a few times on the straights (17 psi GT35R) ,the rear brakes (stock pads) would be smoking after the 2nd lap ... a total of 120miles on the track that day.

The car felt really fast on that track ,a little too much underSteer in the corners kept my cornering speed down but I was able to cach up with most of the cars on the straights ,but hey this was my first trackDay ever I'll get some R4S pads for the rear and should be good to go. I don't know why people are complaining that the Stock front brakes are too weak ,all that I have is Brembo Blanks ,and R4S pads - no brake faide on the fronts at all. Well I have to admit that I have what they call in EU groupA cooling on the fronts (I guess cooling ducts available on 1992 Supras) - but that was pretty much it

No pictures from the track ,or vidz (they wanted too much $$) - just one in the pits:

 

[LordDigital]

So I determined that there are not any available adjustable UPCs for MA70 ( Upper Control Arms). But I wanted to have car that would not only be fast on the straights but also be able to keep decent speed in the turns on the track. The solution was to cut the stock A-Arms ,so that my base front camber would be degreased with 3 more degrees (x+(-3)). If you believe that -3 degrees front camber is aggressive ,you might want to look at some Group-A videos… now I did not do the alignment on the Race MA70 ,but I’m ready to bet based on the videos that their camber is in the range of -4 to -5 ,add the fact that their body was hyper stiff and -3 becomes streetable number rather than race track setting!

First I needed to know how much should I cut. I analyzed the suspension setup and based on desired -3 degrees ,mathematically derived a formula of Cut= ((Pi)*D)/60 ,where D is the distance between the pivot points on the Upper and Lower control Arm. I measured D to be 254mm ,thus the cut needs to be 13.3mm. Did a quick verification in Visio too:

 

[LordDigital]

Took the Arms with AL angle ,to get them stable and ready for cut:

It took me quite some time to make a decent setup for the cuts (nothing is as easy as it looks ,especially when there are so many dimensions in the space ):

Cuts seemed to be good with the crazy 3kW! Chop Saw:

Finally Using the old good JB Weld

Tomorrow I’ll do the testFit and if need be will adjust the size of the cut.

 

[Datsrboi]

Nice build man

 

[LordDigital]

Got the Arms from the welder today.

I did tell him that my life depends on his welds ,and he added at least 30% of welding weight on the poor arms :aigo: Killed the grease tough (overheated badly) but saved the bushings (Australian bushings are way too expensive and energy stuff not yet available). Re-Greased them and here is what they look like:

 

[LordDigital]

First look:

Got the car on my Lift today to pre-Set Castor at max. My buddy promised me tile slot on the Hunter (Hunter DSP 400 Alligment Rack).

Will be shooting for the following alignment specs :

Front:
Camber -3.0 to -3.5
Caster ~+5
Тое 0

Rear:
Camber -1 to -2
Toe IN (total) 1mm
(on 255/40R17 tires this rear toe equates to .090 deg, i.e. .045 deg per side)

As a minimum the front Caster has to be equal on both sides ,unfortanatly I suspect that equalizing camber differences at the same time would not be possible without adjustable UPCs...