Knocking/ ratteling sound form tranny?

[89whitepkg]

Background:
New motor with about 5-6k miles on it, everything was done right, and broken in right. I have a 6 puck ceremic cluth spec disc that I used with a new, but stock pressure plate.

Problem:
Ok here is what is going on, when I'm in netural and the clutch is out I hear a really loud knocking/ratteling it almost a faint grinding comming from the tranny. If I push in the clutch in it stops. The clutch seems to be holding ok as far as I can tell. When I get on the gas the sound goes away, but if the engine is not under a load I can start to her it again.

Question:
What could this be?
Is this something that could have damaged the new motor? It has only happened today and I parked the car.
If the clutch is bad and you pull the tranny without pulling the motor?

Thoughts:
Throw out bearing?
Pressure plate?
Clutch disc?

As always thank in advance.

Here is a link to a video of the problem, I hope this helps. It may be a little hard to hear.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXHzKb8Rbvw

 

[89whitepkg]

I have looked at it a little more and have noticed that if I push in the clutch the noise stops, but if I then givie it gas, it sounds very similar like a rough grinding, it doesn't just rev up like normal.

 

[89whitepkg]

any ideas out there?

 

[LordLo]

If it sounds like crickets, it's probably just your clutch disc. My feramic/organic disc with a 250% pressure plate on my MR2 makes a nice noise too; and I'm told it's normal.

BTW, I can't hear the noise in your vid.

 

[super.secret.supra.club]

almost sounds like the hub is loose. were you sure to get all the washers for the hub when you installed it?

 

[Poodles]

The reason I think it's tranny and not clutch is because you said if the engine isn't under load the noise comes back.

Clutch wouldn't care in that case...

 

[LordLo]

Did you grease up the shift fork and pivot point? New throw out bearing?

 

[89whitepkg]

First off to answer a few questions:
Yes I used all of the washers for the hub.
Yes I installed a new throwout bearing.
Yes I greased the pivot fork.

This week is my spring break and I think the only way I'm really going to figure the out is to pull the tranny and take a look. So,......Any suggestions before I try and start pulling the tranny with the motor in the car.

Here is who I was planning on doing it.
Drain the fluid
Drop the drive shaft
Unhook, the wires, including ground and speedo cable.
Unhook slave line
Pull the shift fork
Unbolt th tranny (This is what I'm not really sure about).
Pull it out


If you guys have any tips that will make this job easier or if I have left something out please let me know.

An as always thanks!

 

[black89t]

get a better clip of the sound, then pull it. i couldn't really hear anything either.


but the fact that the noise goes away with the clutch in practically eliminates the possibility of the throwout bearing being a problem because that is the only time that bearing really has a load on it. by the symptoms it sounds like a bearing on the input or counter shaft but really its hard to say without really hearing it.

 

[dumbo]

I would pull the inspection cover and see what you can see. You might see nothing, but its quick.

 

[89whitepkg]

get a better clip of the sound, then pull it. i couldn't really hear anything either.


but the fact that the noise goes away with the clutch in practically eliminates the possibility of the throwout bearing being a problem because that is the only time that bearing really has a load on it. by the symptoms it sounds like a bearing on the input or counter shaft but really its hard to say without really hearing it.

I tried a few more times but I couldn't really get a better sound clip, I put it under the car but then all you could hear was the exhaust.
Are you talking about the pilot bearing that is in the end of the crankshaft? Is there a way to get that out with out pulling the flywheel?
At this point it looks a though I'm tanking the tranny out regardless, so I want to doulbe check everything while I have it out.\


UPDATE: It still makes some noise when the clutch is pushed in now, it is more of a grinding, however when I let the clutch out it sounds more like a clunking, or knocking

 

[Poodles]

Pull the inspection plates...

 

[89whitepkg]

pulled the plates, and couldn't really tell anything. Pulling the whole thing today.

 

[89whitepkg]

Hey, Thanks everybody. Problem found and in the process of fixing!!!! I have to run to work now, but later tonight I'll get on and explain exactly what was happening.
Thanks again.

 

[MA70_Powa]

I have a similar sort of noise, except mine is an auto, and it happens when I'm idling at a red light or similar while it is in gear. When I put it into neutral the noise goes away...

awaiting your solution, might shed some light on my problem

 

[89whitepkg]

I have a similar sort of noise, except mine is an auto, and it happens when I'm idling at a red light or similar while it is in gear. When I put it into neutral the noise goes away...

awaiting your solution, might shed some light on my problem

Sorry for the delay. Ok here is what I found when I got the tranny off, a LOOSE FLYWHEEL!!! How terrible, I'm so embarassed. I used arp bolts on the fly wheel, and even called arp when I was installing them to make sure that I torqued them to the correct specs. Here is what I was told original when I called two months ago.

"Clean the bolts off, and the threads on the crank,AND TORQUE TO 95 FT/LBS. NOTE: Never a word about lockite.

My fellow supra buddy that was helping me could not believe that I did not use locktite, I figured that if I should have done that with arp fasteners arp would have told me, guess not.

So I called them back this week and asked them about the locktite, and the responded...."Yeah, you could do that a lot of people do, it would most likely help."

So now the flywheel is reinstalled with locktite and torqued to 95 ft/lbs.

 

[Poodles]

yep, red loctite... if you have to remove em an impact makes quick work of em

 

[thebadz32]

this has happened to me 5 times not ive came to the conclusion that my motor is out of ballance and its sending the vibration threw the crank and its causeing the flywheel bolts to back out and everytime it happens 2 heads break off. i have a fresh rebuilt but everything was kind of pieced togather and i didnt know anything about balancing so i didnt do that and im thinking thats where my problem is last time i welded them in because after locktite red and arp's i still had the same problem and i just wanted my car to last me a few more mounths untill i got some more money togather for a 2j-ge build but it happened again even with the tach welds.

when i contacted arp they only told me i think 68 or 72 ft lbs with locktite. Alls i know is after july im done with 7m's theve been a night mare for me.

 

[89whitepkg]

this has happened to me 5 times not ive came to the conclusion that my motor is out of ballance and its sending the vibration threw the crank and its causeing the flywheel bolts to back out and everytime it happens 2 heads break off. i have a fresh rebuilt but everything was kind of pieced togather and i didnt know anything about balancing so i didnt do that and im thinking thats where my problem is last time i welded them in because after locktite red and arp's i still had the same problem and i just wanted my car to last me a few more mounths untill i got some more money togather for a 2j-ge build but it happened again even with the tach welds.

when i contacted arp they only told me i think 68 or 72 ft lbs with locktite. Alls i know is after july im done with 7m's theve been a night mare for me.

Hey, I see you are in Louisville too! What color is your car, I might have seen you around.
Well, arp told me 95 ft/lbs so that is what I did. I know my motor is very well balanced, I did this build right. I'm hoping this solves the problem.

 

[sneakypete]

they give 2 different torque specs for the flywheel bolts. depends if your using moly lube or motor oil. i wonder what they might recommend if you use loctite?