"Knock, knock! Who's there? You're motor b**ch!"
- Thread starter Moy
- Start date
i love that sound. NOT just kidding dam that sucks it just happend to me. i just paided 1300 for my rebuild. good luck man sry to hear that
Pics of the damage?
I want to compare to one of my cranks with the RK. I measured my bad journal last night, it had opened up from ~.022mm clearance to around .054mm, not huge but enough that i could hear it every once in a while during a drive.
I want to compare to one of my cranks with the RK. I measured my bad journal last night, it had opened up from ~.022mm clearance to around .054mm, not huge but enough that i could hear it every once in a while during a drive.
BlackDynamite
KTHXBIA
TooGoode;1410623 said:
maybe, whenever i bought my 7m it was knocking like that. Then about a day later, something felt like it popped...lol, then it was Constant v8 loping knock knock action!!!!1 no matter what rpm and would stall at idle....that's when i knew.....it was GAME TIME!!!!!! :burnout:
It's time for a rebuild! I had to place the crank, but reused the rods, had the caps cut and resurfaced... i know everyone would be like, why not buy new ones..... JEEZ, i was broke back then, give me a break!
The guy i sold it to drives it every day about 30 miles each way and loves it. it hasn't had any problems.
thedave925;1413946 said:
I need to get the crank bolt off somehow....
Does anyone know how to make the starter work while it's on an engine stand? haha
You need:
-1/2" breaker bar and 3/4" socket for the crank snout dampener bolt. Anything less will fail.
-Around 10-15 feet of nylon rope will a diameter around 1/4" or slightly less. It should be soft yet dense enough to not flatten out when squeezed.
-Iron pipe from the nearest lowes/home depot that will fit over the handle of the breaker bar. Longer is better, so 5' just for the breaker bar is nice. Steel stock works too as long as it fits over the handle, and has a wall thickness greater than 3/16". Buy pipe, its cheap.
Get another pipe the same length, for a scissor effect
The head needs to be on the block, torqued at least some and not just beyond finger tight.
Remove a spark plug from the head and feed most of the rope into the chamber. The goal is to have the piston compress the rope to the head around half way up.
Figure out the best position for the breaker bar to lend the most leverage while still leaving room for swing. You will need that pipe over it, and they will flex some.
Position the other pipe to counter the breaker bar effort or the motor will tip way before the bolt budges. I placed the second pipe between the crank dampener pully and the water pump, with the end sticking out beyond the exhaust side of the block.
Hold and keep pipe 2 from going down to the ground while applying force to the breaker bar/pipe with gradually more pressure until that bolt gives. Stay square in the effort and no sudden jerking or bad things will happen.
5 feet is a minimum, more leverage may be necessary.
-1/2" breaker bar and 3/4" socket for the crank snout dampener bolt. Anything less will fail.
-Around 10-15 feet of nylon rope will a diameter around 1/4" or slightly less. It should be soft yet dense enough to not flatten out when squeezed.
-Iron pipe from the nearest lowes/home depot that will fit over the handle of the breaker bar. Longer is better, so 5' just for the breaker bar is nice. Steel stock works too as long as it fits over the handle, and has a wall thickness greater than 3/16". Buy pipe, its cheap.
Get another pipe the same length, for a scissor effect
The head needs to be on the block, torqued at least some and not just beyond finger tight.
Remove a spark plug from the head and feed most of the rope into the chamber. The goal is to have the piston compress the rope to the head around half way up.
Figure out the best position for the breaker bar to lend the most leverage while still leaving room for swing. You will need that pipe over it, and they will flex some.
Position the other pipe to counter the breaker bar effort or the motor will tip way before the bolt budges. I placed the second pipe between the crank dampener pully and the water pump, with the end sticking out beyond the exhaust side of the block.
Hold and keep pipe 2 from going down to the ground while applying force to the breaker bar/pipe with gradually more pressure until that bolt gives. Stay square in the effort and no sudden jerking or bad things will happen.
5 feet is a minimum, more leverage may be necessary.
Yeah, I've tried that already, didn't work. I ended up standing on the breaker bar/pipe and bouncing up and down, didn't budge.
So how would I go about wiring up the starter to be able to spin the motor enough to break the bolt loose, while it is out of the car?
I personally wouldn't try it.
The little brown wire from the harness that plugs into the starter receptacle is a ground.
The average female quick disconnect will fit the tab in the ground receptacle.
I'm not sure how i would go about securing the block, maybe bolt it and chain it to a pallet?
So you start out by having a nice positive lead from your battery hooked to the positive terminal of the starter.
Mount the female disconnect lead to the starter, and touch the other end to the battery's negative post.
The other issue is momentum. The starter won't have any if the breaker bar is against the floor already when you activate it. I gather its necassary to have around 1/8 turn of the crank to have the inertia to bust the bolt free, if you take the trick straight from the in-car bolt busting starter.
I don't believe that the breaker bar method didn't yield results, i hope you had a long enough pipe.
If the bolt is torqued to ~194ft-lbs and then time takes its toll to seize it, and you stand on a 4' bar, you had better be around 200 lbs to even get it moving.
I'm 140. I had to use 6' pipe and i'm by no means weak, benching 225 and curling 60/arm. I did use my previous described method, a scissor action.
Is the garage cold? You don't want to snap the bolt off in the crank when you take an impact wrench to it...
The little brown wire from the harness that plugs into the starter receptacle is a ground.
The average female quick disconnect will fit the tab in the ground receptacle.
I'm not sure how i would go about securing the block, maybe bolt it and chain it to a pallet?
So you start out by having a nice positive lead from your battery hooked to the positive terminal of the starter.
Mount the female disconnect lead to the starter, and touch the other end to the battery's negative post.
The other issue is momentum. The starter won't have any if the breaker bar is against the floor already when you activate it. I gather its necassary to have around 1/8 turn of the crank to have the inertia to bust the bolt free, if you take the trick straight from the in-car bolt busting starter.
I don't believe that the breaker bar method didn't yield results, i hope you had a long enough pipe.
If the bolt is torqued to ~194ft-lbs and then time takes its toll to seize it, and you stand on a 4' bar, you had better be around 200 lbs to even get it moving.
I'm 140. I had to use 6' pipe and i'm by no means weak, benching 225 and curling 60/arm. I did use my previous described method, a scissor action.
Is the garage cold? You don't want to snap the bolt off in the crank when you take an impact wrench to it...
i would suggest applying a bit of heat to it and smacking the head of the bolt with a hammer (not hard enough to damage the bolt... but enough to jar it breaking loose any rust...) then if you can heat up the crank... do so... lots o leverage... if that doesnt work... lots of penetrating oil and a 1" impact... nothing like 1000+ft.lbs to snap a bolt off
if you happen to have a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar/torque wrench... try that... I'm lucky enough to work at an industrial shop... the smallest sockets we use are 3/4 drive... and someone broke one of our 1" torque wrenches... so now its my new 6' long 1" drive ratchet... makes things like this much eaiser.... some how or another... they broke the torque adjustment on it... works nice for a ratchet though
good luck either way...
-AcId-
if you happen to have a 3/4" or 1" drive breaker bar/torque wrench... try that... I'm lucky enough to work at an industrial shop... the smallest sockets we use are 3/4 drive... and someone broke one of our 1" torque wrenches... so now its my new 6' long 1" drive ratchet... makes things like this much eaiser.... some how or another... they broke the torque adjustment on it... works nice for a ratchet though
good luck either way...
-AcId-