JZA70 swap options...

[BigTree]

*Footnotes at bottom*

Hey there dudes and dudettes.

After getting my newly acquired car back home and coming across some free time I finally got it up in the air on the hoist and checked everything out, did the usual OFG, tranny fluid, rear diff etc etc.

Anyways before I drained the oil I pulled the dipstick and could swear I saw 4-5 little bity metal bits on it. I cleaned it off, re-inserted it and nothing. Drained the oil and inspected and once again I could swear there were little metal bits floating around in the oil. I tried to poke at them to get it on my finger and inspect closer but they would just disappear.

After starting the car with new oil and letting it sit for ~5 mins I pulled the dipstick again and once again I think there is fuckin bearing in there. I dunno what to think. I am going to clean on my drain buckets and do another oil change hopefully on wed night. Until than I will get some driving done.

Motor starts excellent, no clicking or knocking sounds at all, idles perfect. Really the smoothest sounding and feeling motors I have personally owned to date.


If there is metal in there, after shooting the person I bought my car from (not literally) do you think it would be worth it to go 2JZ or put another 1JZ in there? If it is fubar I will sell my other car and hopefully get 4500cnd to buy me a new motor.

Starting with a JZA70 already I would imagine the 2JZ would drop right in without too many issues (might not even have to bang firewall in for twins!?); but I would have wiring "issues". There was a really good post about what one would need to do for a 1JZ vs. a 2JZ on these forums but I have searched for over an hour with nothing in hand.

Basically I dont know what to do. I dont want to think about it but I know I have to. Im very frustrated right now so this may not make a whole lot of sense and I am sorry for that.

Thanks for taking the time guys, I really appreciate it. I will get some pics up of the car soon too.

*Footnotes*
-Think my 1JZ may be chewing up a bearing
-Budget ~4k cnd
-JZA70 car -->1JZ again or 2JZ
-Anyone know how much of a PITA the wiring will be for 2JZ
-Thanks

 

[swaq]

You should have your oil checked to see what metal(s) are in it, if any.

 

[OneJoeZee]

If you have 4k, you shouldn't have any problem getting a replacement 1J swapped into your car, and then some.

 

[935motorsports]

A replacement 1jz long block is only $500 all around the country. I would just swap motors.

 

[BigTree]

You make an excellent point.

Anyone know where I can get a short block rebuilt from someone who knows what they are doing?

 

[johnathan1]

Did you try using a magnet to pick-up the metal bits? Maybe try a magnetic drain plug?

 

[annoyingrob]

A 2JZ will fit into a RHD JZA70 with no modifications.

I would suggest you just pick up a 2JZ bottom end, and make a 1.5JZ

 

[The Reaper]

2JZ

 

[BigTree]

1.5JZ.....I like that Idea. would be alot easier than total 2JZ.

Off to searching I go.

 

[The Reaper]

not really 2JZ can run off the 1JZ electronics. PNP......i'd go 2J talk to HAMSMkiii and he'll tell you

 

[bobiseverywhere]

1.5JZ is a great idea if you are in this situation, I think the 1.5 is the best of both worlds.

 

[BigTree]

I really like the 1.5JZ Idea.

Local toyota dealership wants $3200 (after my 20% shop rate off) + taxes for a new shortblock. I may call around tommorow or the next day but if it is fked I really wouldn't mind going with something as fresh as that, new!

But $3700 after taxes for the shortblock....than I would put in a new clutch, and apparently I would need some sort of engine management, than do the whole timing job. None of that really bothers me though I guess, It's only $$.



I would definitely like a new rebuilt 2J block or my 1J block rebuilt comparing to getting a JDM 1J block and slapping that in.

Back to the thinking board. Thanks guys.

 

[OneJoeZee]

1.5JZ is not so cut and dry though as just buying the block.

I wish I had went 2JZ looking back. Sure, I'm 1.5JZ now, but I've spent too much to get there. If I were going to start from scratch, knowing what I do now, I'd just get a 2JZ.

- Chris

But if that's what you wanna do, that's what you wanna do. In my opinion, I don't see the point in creating a 1JZ stroker motor when Toyota already did it for you and called it the 2JZ. Unless you have considerable money invested in your 1JZ head(turbo kit, cams, head work, that sorta thing), I would advise just buying another 1JZ block or going with a complete 2JZ. The 2JZ can be run off 1JZ electronics.

If this were me and I had that 4k, I'd buy another 1J block for less than 1k and spend the 3k on a single turbo kit and whatever supporting mods I could get up front to optimize the setup.

Also, this thread will most likely give you some food for thought, as it directly pertains to your current situation.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18129&highlight=1.5JZ

 

[bobiseverywhere]

i thought the 1J Head had i higher Velocity of air flow?

Edit: Not that it flows more but the air that Flows through it is at a High Rate Of Speed ???

 

[OneJoeZee]

This is the only comparison between a 1J and 2J head I've ever seen. No sheet was ever posted though, so it's hard to put it under the hard data classification... Everything seems to be heresay, to me, without hard proof.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=339560&page=6

Velocity is dictated by the size of the port. The port size difference between the two heads is vey small... i.e a few cc's. So the debate of the 1j having more velocity is pointless.

Erin

IDK what to tell ya...

 

[BigTree]

I really have nothing against the 1JZ and don't mind it at all. I just would like a "rebuilt" motor if you can. I plan on keeping this car for a long long time and dont really want to spend another 1k getting a "LOW MILEAGE MINT CONDITION JDM 1JZ" when it has the potential to do the same thing or worse in a year or two. I know a new motor can do this as well but at least the chances are far far lower and there is a warranty as well. I do not know of anyone (especially up here in Canada) that has experience with 1JZ motors. I know there were a few places down south of me but one closed and the other fired both supra specific mechanics.


Joe. As far as I read all one really needs to do is buy the short block, get a different timing belt, and find a way to tune it. Am I incorrect?


Thanks.

 

[OneJoeZee]

LOL it's not that easy.

The waternecks are wrong. The 1JZ waterneck bypass is too short, the 2JZ waterneck sensor ports are wrong. The 2JZ bypass pipe is longer, but not long enough.

Something is different about the crank sprockets. I am using a 1JZ spocket and it set my timing belt back too far, cauusing it to shred last night... Thank god nothing bad happened.

The brackets that hold up the intake and exhaust manifolds won't work, they're too short. The dipstick tube is too short, it wont bolt up to the intake manifold like it should. You'll need to upgrade the injectors because the increased displacement will cause the car to run too lean on the 380's. You'll need 550's to make it right.

You'll need a 2JZ oil pump for sure, The front covers will not align anymore, so you can forget about putting them on.

Exhaust fitment and intercooler pipes will become a problem since anything attacing to the head will now sit 1.4" taller in the engine bay. I had to modify all my intercooler pipes and my exhaust to bolt up to my downpipe.

You will need a 2JZ timing belt, not a 1JZ.

Anyone who tells you that it is simply plug and play has never actually done the swap. It is NOT, trust me. It's nothing major, but these things all have to be addressed.

- Chris

I believe you whole heartedly, trust me.

I took the common word that the 1.5JZ is a plug n' play deal like most on the SF do.

Anyhow, I was just trying to dispell the myth here so you weren't led down a false path. If you do it, prepare to make adjustments and custom work.

Also, keep in mind that stock to stock, you'll only see a 25-30 hp difference in the displacement. If you plan to go nuts like I did, the difference can pay off, but a BPU wouldn't really see the difference.

If I were BPU, I wouldn't do it in retrospect.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369677

 

[BigTree]

Alright than. Thank you very much. I am a moron for missing that. Apparently I suck at searching. Back the 1JZ idea...

Soo when I drained my oil there was maybe only 20 or so little bits of oil. and on the dipstick only 1-3 come out if you check it after the car has been driven. Chances are its not too too bad in there yet. I dont think I could get away with just swapping bearings out though, that would be far to easy. I am thinking a compression test is in order to see how everything else is. I think if I stop driving her I might be able to get away with new bearings and a polished crank/replacement rod(s) if necessary.

Does that sound out to lunch?

1JZ for life!!


P.S. You fucking own Joe. You are the man.

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Short & Quick answer.
Go either 1JZ or 2JZ

Go 1JZ if you want 8000rpm + revs and 1/2 the price.
Go 2JZ if you want more then 800hp. But dont forget you need the 2JZ + 1JZ parts like bellhousing for R154.

If you pick 1JZ later down the road you blow the bottom end out then you go 1.5JZ or just buy a 1JZ long block for $800 by itself.

 

[BigTree]

lol. It is a JZA70 car with a 1JZ in it from the factory.

Thanks anyways though.