Just thought I'd change my plugs today, check em out...

S

supraman74

I bought it SUPPED up
Apr 26, 2007
89
0
0
50
Iowa
Here they are from left to right, #1 thru #6 (Sorry about the fuzzy pic):nono:
#4 & #5 are pretty black (Possible reasons??)
My car idles rich too (10 to 11 afr's), but only after the idle settles to around 650rpm after cold start.
During the cold start, high idle is around 1100rpm and afr's are 12 to 13 but
like I said, as soon as it idles down its really rich??:cry:

sm_photo_missing.jpg


I also have a question about the little washer or spacer on my new plugs(Autolite Platinum #AP5503) I'm not quite sure which way they seat. :1zhelp:
Does the small side of the washer face the spark side (like the plug on the right?)Or the other way like the one on the left??

sm_photo_missing.jpg


These new plugs also came gapped way over spec(like .45):icon_evil
Whats the best way to Reduce the gap? Can I?
Whats a safe gap for boosting about 11 or 12 psi
And how important is it to torque our plugs?
I have a torque wrench but it only measures in.lb's not ft. lb's (anyone know the conversion?)

I'm pretty new on the Supra scene so please be gentle:icon_razz
I've never done this so I want to get it right, thanks!
 
Nick M

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,897
40
48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
There is 12 inches in a foot. Unless that manufacturer says not to regap, you can. Most plugs need to be checked and adjusted before installing. OEM will often have sleeve over the plug. Those are supposed to be gapped. I still check, they are sometimes still wrong.

Pull your codes.
 
S

supraman74

I bought it SUPPED up
Apr 26, 2007
89
0
0
50
Iowa
I never used a torque wrench before so forgive my lack of knowledge, Its embarrassing after I think about it,
12 inches in a foot so the TSRM says 13 ft/lb so it would be like 156 in/lb, duh:nono:
I should have did some research before I asked.

I never got a set of plugs that had a washer/spacer just jingling around in the box, its always been pre threaded on the plug for my other cars.
The plugs I took out of my supra are Bosch and those washers are the same on both sides and these autolites I got the washer goes on two ways
so I'm not sure which way is up:nono: Is it even needed??

As for codes I checked right before I started my plug change and I got two,

12 RPM Signal
Diagnosis
No "NE" or "G" signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked.
Trouble Area
Distributor, or CPS, circuit
Distributor or CPS
Starter signal circuit
ECU

21 Oxygen Sensor Signal
Diagnosis
Detection of oxygen sensor deterioration.
Trouble Area
Oxygen sensor circuit
Oxygen sensor
ECU
 
fiyota

fiyota

I ♥ Boost
May 3, 2006
1,063
0
0
Kelowna, BC
I put the flat side of the washer towards the plug and the smaller side towards the head.

I gapped my plugs to .23, I used the same plugs and needed to gap them down.
 
robbo185

robbo185

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
693
0
0
40
Chicago
the o2 sensor should still be good since i changed it new from toyota probobly about 2 months before i sold ya the car. However maybe someone could chime in on this. The plug for the new o2 sensor is grey yet the wiring harness is yellow. Correct me if im wrong Mike. Also I would have the 2 injectors checked to see if they are stuck open.
 
M

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
3,061
0
36
Ohio
If the only thing that changed from pre-89 (yellow) to 89+ (gray) was color, then it shouldn't make any difference. I doubt anything changed except the color on something like that.
 
tte

tte

Breaking In - in progress
Mar 30, 2005
940
0
0
Northern California
Frank Rizzo said:
I don't know what country you're from but an O2 sensor for a turbo MK3 is far from cheap. Unless you think $150 for an O2 sensor is cheap.
Click to expand...


You can get Denso oem O2 sensors for about $38 and $99.

Cheers,
Roy
 
S

supraman74

I bought it SUPPED up
Apr 26, 2007
89
0
0
50
Iowa
Well like Robbo said, my O2 isnt very old so I'm gonna trouble shoot elsewhere for now. Its odd because I only get the 21 code when I boost in 5th gear,
but if I downshift to 4th and boost it wont trip the CEL, just when I boost in 5th at a low rpm...Other than that I never get the 21. Sorry if I confused anyone:aigo:

I have to wiggle the CPS wiring sometimes to get my car started so I figured thats what is giving me the 12 code.

I've never messed with injectors so I'm afraid I'll F@#% it up:icon_razz

I got the new plugs in gapped at 31 like it says in the TSRM.
I also took the three coils off and cleaned up the coil pack bracket which was kinda filthy,
I used a medium wire brush and shined it up to near new and the metal strip on the bottom of each coil was a bit corroded so I shined those up as well...
Cars runs great by the way, I just gotta figure out my rich issue now:cry:
 
robbo185

robbo185

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
693
0
0
40
Chicago
getting the injectors out really isnt very hard. Its just a matter of clearing the area out so you can get to the fuel rail easily. Then you just unclip the injector and remove it. Only problem would be is that when you have them out to get flow tested, your car would be down till you get them back.
 
robbo185

robbo185

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
693
0
0
40
Chicago
rc engineering does that stuff. But from the looks of it, it was expensive compared to this guy which was recommended in another thread

http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html

if you use him make sure you read all his directions and FAq's cause it seems he wants you to do things a certain way before you ship.

here are the rest of the recommendations. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44383&highlight=injectors+flowtested

yea new car I got it a few weeks ago. No mods except for exhaust so far but that will soon change ;)
 
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