Just did 7mgte swap from N/A I have a few questions

[Tysree]

So I got my engine in all the intercooler and piping is good and tight shouldn't have any leaks, but I'm getting fuel cut (or something?) just when any air is forced into the intake.
Things I'm wondering about
I had a few other wires cut on the harness, did a pin out, connected wires and the engine starts and runs/idles great.
I also am wondering if I need GTE TPS the n/a one plugs in but don't know if it will work?
Also the fuel pressure regulator and the injector regulator, will I need the gte ones?
I'm pretty sure the engine is out of an 88.
I also just got a different maf as my other one was broken so im pretty sure its good.

This wire?
What does it do cant find out where it goes?

Any answers would be greatly appreciated!
Just wanna drive it again!:1zhelp:

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Hacked wire harness = bad. Can't help much there.

When you hit FCO does the car seem to lose all power? If so, then it's definitely an intake leak. Did you check your intercooler for damage/leaks? The one that was with my donor car was horrible, and leaked very badly. (Actually, it's probably an intake leak regardless, you won't be running as rich as I was, since I had 550CC injectors when I popped an IC pipe.)

I thnk that there's a difference in the specs of the GTE vs. GE TPS, so I'd get the right one.

 

[tyang82]

i have the pre 89 harness and ecu if you need

 

[Tysree]

I haven't drove it yet its just in neutral when it happens, it will be fine untill vac. hits zero.
Okay will get the TPS, would that make a big difference?
I might take you up on that deal if this doesn't end up working out I'm gonna give it a few more tries and see what happens.
Whats a good way to check for leaks?

 

[tyang82]

smoke it

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Take the IC out, cap the intake and outlet. Pop a fitting in one cap (Like from an old rim or something) and see if it takes pressure. 5-6 PSI should be all you need to test to.

Or, quick and dirty, pour about a quarter cup of gas in the IC and turn it around to see if any leaks from any of the seams around the core. That'll help clean out any oil that's accumulated in there from the PCV, too, but it's not 100% certain that it's solid. (It'd be 100% certain if it's not though!)

 

[Tysree]

Okay sweet I'm bouts to try that maybe even both for good measure!
Should I need a new fuel pump too??
Thanks for the help too!
I wish I could start it but the no exhaust might piss the negbors off

 

[mk3_7m]

are there any missing pins on the plugs of the ecu that looks like the wire goes into???

I maybe wrong but it looks like someone perhaps attempted to tweak the knock sensors to read from one sensor and got lost in the process to do so although that's provided if you get the code 52.

 

[Tysree]

I think I figured out that wire is the ox wire. But this wouldn't cause a running issue to much would it?

---------- Post added at 12:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:01 AM ----------

Well the kid I got the engine from said he had aem standalone so the harness was cut for a reason, but he told me that it was all ready to hook up though...
I haven't checked for codes yet probably should...

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Yep, check for codes.

I've been running my 7M-GTE with Lexus AFM and 550cc injectors for a couple of years now on the NA stock fuel pump, don't seem to have issues with that. I have a Walbro which I plan to install, I just haven't actually done it yet.

 

[Tysree]

So you don't think it could be the fuel pressure regulator? I have the n/a one on it cause it didn't come with a fuel rail.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Okay, you might want to back up a few steps and list what you did and what you didn't swap over. From your question about the TPS, does that mean that you still have the NA intake manifold and throttle body attached as well? (Lower intake manifold is the same, just upper is different, IIRC, there may be some differences with the ISC as well, but in general, there shouldn't be large issues. The injectors are definitely different though, so I hope that you have at least the stock 440 size injectors (And injector resistor for low impedance ones) and not the NA's 360 (?) cc injectors in the NA fuel rail. The NA FPR wasn't supposed to deal with boost, just variable vacuum levels, though in theory it should be okay. (I think that I still have my stock GTE FPR from when I installed the Aeromotive AFPR this year, I'm sure that other people will have one that they'd let go cheap as well.)

If you have the NA injectors, they might simply be maxing out duty cycle, causing you to hit FCO really early, since they're much smaller than the ECU is expecting.

 

[Tysree]

Ya sorry for the confusion so basically the engine I got didn't come with the fuel rail or throttle position sensor (idk why?) everything else is there. I did buy the stock 440 injectors but not the resistors which was a concern, so I need the resistors for sure? I have someone with a parts car that I can buy the parts when I get the money. Luckily!

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Yes, the stock 440s need the resistor pack. Not using that can damage them or the ECU due to overcurrent.

 

[Tysree]

Oh okay sweet that's what I wanted to know hopefully my ecu isn't already damaged, I'm gonna get the resistors tomorrow to see if it fixes my issues

 

[Tysree]

Well the resistor and tps didn't help I don't know what to do...

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

Check codes. Really.

Re-reading through to see where things are at.

1. If you have a downpipe, the NA catback exhaust works, by the way. I ran the same exhaust from my NA for a while before my 3" came in. At least this will make the car something that the neighbors won't mind you starting now and again.

2. The main issue is FCO at 0psi manifold right? This really screams "boost leak" here. Testing the IC is good, but how about the rest? What are you using as IC piping? Check that pipes aren't split, couplers are tight. For a 0PSI issue, it's likely to be a fairly substantial leak. Also check the bypass valve, and PCV system.

3. Sort wiring harness issues. The TSRM is an excellent resource. The one at CygnusX1 is for a 1990 (As is the paper one on my bookshelf) but it works remarkably well with my 1987 engine/ECU, for sensor wiring and the like. Of course the plugs are different, but the wire colours are close enough in most cases.

 

[Tysree]

Yeah I have a 3" down pipe on right now I am planning on doing it 3" all the way back but I cant get it running good enough to take it to the shop!

Ya I thought so too I have checked over and over and over... and I cant find any leaks I tested the IC and it seemed to hold pressure, the tubing is all good tubing that was just being ran by a previous user.

I took a short video I think it takes a little while for it to publish on youtube.

I checked codes its throwing 31, 32 which is afm signals and a 51. I dont know if that means the afm is bad but the afm I bought was being used like a week earlier...

I'm using a hard pipe instead of the accordion and the ic piping replaced the 3000 pipe.

Heres that video sorry its sideways...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwP0CJ-cfR8

I got all the wires figured out at the ecu (Im pretty sure), and theres one wire im questioning but I dont think its supposed to be there I think previous owner spliced into it

 

[Tysree]

And also I don't know what these plugs go to?

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

The round 3 pin one looks like the ABS speed sensor, not sure with the 6 pin rectangular one. Possibly EGR? There's a few things under the intake manifold.