Just a couple of general questions.

[B-Supra]

I have a 1986.5 model and I was just curious to whether anyone might know if it has a limited slip differential? Also, I have a catback on my supra and I'm about to replace the headers, and I'm replacing the catalytic converter with a test pipe converter. So, what I'm trying to say is that I'm looking to mod an n/a as much as possible, but I'm not sure what I should do next. I was thinking maybe I should look into suspension, but maybe someone might have a better idea. Give me some ideas, please.

 

[shaeff]

If I were you, I'd replace every bushing on the car, then do suspension. Search in the reference/tech tips section for a post by Jeff Lange. He has the door tag/under hood tag codes written down for LSD's and open diffs.

An easy way to tell would be to look at the back of the diff; if it's limited slip, it'll have a sticker that says LSD. Or, jack up the back end of the car, disengage the e-brake, put it in neutral and spin one tire. If the other tire spins the same direction, it's LSD. If it spins the opposite direction, it's an open diff.

Don't modify the 7MGE too much, it's very difficult to get power out of them. Focus on the chassis, then turboswap. That's the best way to go, in my opinion.

Oh, and welcome to Supramania!

 

[Moy]

Not sure if you've read through this yet or not, but this is the (stickied) n/a upgrade thread.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60249

 

[B-Supra]

Hey guys, thanks a lot! I've always wanted to turbo it, but I wanted to see how far I could go with n/a mods. But, it looks like I wouldn't go that far! Hahaha.

 

[B-Supra]

Hey Shaeff thanks! It's good to be here, and to know they have a very informative site about Supras.

 

[SkipC]

Before you give up on the 7MGE and go turbo, check out this site.
http://rides.sportcompactcarweb.com/ride/1007534/texas-cressida/1989/toyota/cressida/index.html :evil2:
Limited Slip Differentials, from the factory, were part of the "Sport" option package that included TEMS shocks. If your car has the push button adjustable shocks (two rectangular buttons next to the small console compartment), then it came from the factory with a limited slip. But, best check for the tag just to be sure a PO hasn't swapped it out.
As for what to do first, just go over the whole car and make a list of everything that's worn beyond spec. Then fix the safety things first (steering, brakes, suspension, etc.). If all the safety items check out OK, then fix whatever you think would make the car more fun to drive !!
The test pipe will not produce much change in power, but do it anyway:biglaugh:. I recommend adjustable cam gears (with degree markings). Set them to stock, then start advancing the intake 1 degree at a time while retarding the exhaust 1 degree at a time. Drive car and see how it feels. Then repeat process (1 degree advance for the intake and 21 degree retard for the exhaust). Keep doing this until the power drops off (somewhere around 8 Adv. and 8 Ret, or 16 degrees increase in valve overlap). On my car, this produced a biger power gain than all the other aftermarket parts put together. If your car is an automatic, PM me and I'll tell you how to maximize the low end power.
Have Fun, Skip ('86 MA70)