JetJock's Igniter Mod Results
- Thread starter CajunKenny
- Start date
SideWinderGX;1563547 said:
The Igniter is kind of like an electronic switch. It takes timing signals from the TCCS and switches power to the coil. In any electronics circuit, if ground is not 100% it sort of hunts to find ground and weird things result. Even though your multimeter measures good continuity, resistance can be too small for a meter to measure/display. So, being that the Igniter is part of the Ignition Circuit, that would be why providing a better ground would affect timing.
And there's a nice little read at the bottom of this page.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=4
IJ.;1563712 said:
Are your referring to crossing circuit grounds? If so, no. In this case additional grounding here is all gravy...
Ian: It shouldn't but even if it did it wouldn't matter because of the current involved.
To be honest I've never seen igniter grounding effect timing, only coil saturation. Timing is, after all, determined by the ECU prior to reaching the igniter. The igniter does handle dwell though. I also have to wonder about Kenny's graph. The second trace is pretty flat for increasing rpm. And 117 degrees of peak advance? Me thinks not
To be honest I've never seen igniter grounding effect timing, only coil saturation. Timing is, after all, determined by the ECU prior to reaching the igniter. The igniter does handle dwell though. I also have to wonder about Kenny's graph. The second trace is pretty flat for increasing rpm. And 117 degrees of peak advance? Me thinks not
jetjock;1563750 said:I also have to wonder about Kenny's graph. The second trace is pretty flat for increasing rpm. And 117 degrees of peak advance? Me thinks not
I'm not sure what is up with that spike. There's another member (grimreaper) that has roughly the same setup as mine and with the Igniter Mod, he too has that spike.
I'll take another log and aggressively ease in to it instead of stabbing it and see if I still hit 117*.
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CajunKenny;1563736 said:The Igniter is kind of like an electronic switch. It takes timing signals from the TCCS and switches power to the coil. In any electronics circuit, if ground is not 100% it sort of hunts to find ground and weird things result. Even though your multimeter measures good continuity, resistance can be too small for a meter to measure/display. So, being that the Igniter is part of the Ignition Circuit, that would be why providing a better ground would affect timing.
And there's a nice little read at the bottom of this page.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=4
Are your referring to crossing circuit grounds? If so, no. In this case additional grounding here is all gravy...
jetjock;1563750 said:Ian: It shouldn't but even if it did it wouldn't matter because of the current involved.
To be honest I've never seen igniter grounding effect timing, only coil saturation. Timing is, after all, determined by the ECU prior to reaching the igniter. The igniter does handle dwell though. I also have to wonder about Kenny's graph. The second trace is pretty flat for increasing rpm. And 117 degrees of peak advance? Me thinks not
Thanks for clearing that up, you have to remember I'm an electronics Neanderthal, before the Supra I was still carbs and distributors so have had a very steep learning curve to follow and only asked as I was told ground loops are bad and take as much care as I can NOT to build them in by accident
Its a glitch in the calculations for the timing monitor. Nothing to do with actual timing or problem on the car.
Something changed on yours ken, your previous timing curve looked terrible.. not to mention the breaking up you talked about.
Glitches aside, what ive seen with the maft pro, match my digi timing light within a few tenths of a degree. This is after correctly calibrating the M-pro to the car though.. Im willing to bet i could replicate a stock timing map with all of the logs i have.
Something changed on yours ken, your previous timing curve looked terrible.. not to mention the breaking up you talked about.
Glitches aside, what ive seen with the maft pro, match my digi timing light within a few tenths of a degree. This is after correctly calibrating the M-pro to the car though.. Im willing to bet i could replicate a stock timing map with all of the logs i have.
CajunKenny;1563736 said:The Igniter is kind of like an electronic switch. It takes timing signals from the TCCS and switches power to the coil. In any electronics circuit, if ground is not 100% it sort of hunts to find ground and weird things result. Even though your multimeter measures good continuity, resistance can be too small for a meter to measure/display. So, being that the Igniter is part of the Ignition Circuit, that would be why providing a better ground would affect timing.
And there's a nice little read at the bottom of this page.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=4
Are your referring to crossing circuit grounds? If so, no. In this case additional grounding here is all gravy...
Thank you sir, that answer works for me
jetjock: I've heard you say 'doesn't matter because of the current involved' once before, I think it was in response to spark plug wires and their claimed ohms/ft rating. Where is the line between doesn't matter and does matter?
Thanks Cajunkenny and JetJock!!!
I knocked off early from work to do spark plugs and wires. After I finished, I thought I would try this mod. Proceeded just like the instructions and in 15 minutes, the mod was done. I noticed that the car starts quicker than it did with just the new plugs and wires. Have not tried the butt dyno yet, but quicker starts for 15 minutes = FTW.
I knocked off early from work to do spark plugs and wires. After I finished, I thought I would try this mod. Proceeded just like the instructions and in 15 minutes, the mod was done. I noticed that the car starts quicker than it did with just the new plugs and wires. Have not tried the butt dyno yet, but quicker starts for 15 minutes = FTW.
question for you guys??? is it ok to ground to the body and not the batt (i dont like a bunch of wires going to the batt, im weird) if i put one meter lead on neg side of batt and the other on spot i put the wire and i put the meter on ohm's and it reads 0....thats just as good right...as long as its getting a better ground???
I don't like a bunch of wires going to my battery terminals either.
I currently have mine grounded to chassis ground and there are no issues. Yet! Over time corosion will form and cause the same issue as before. That's one of the reasons jetjock recommends doubling the ground. But for now, you should be good for the next...............couple of years.? There's a lot of humidity in TN so you'll just need to keep an eye on it.
I currently have mine grounded to chassis ground and there are no issues. Yet! Over time corosion will form and cause the same issue as before. That's one of the reasons jetjock recommends doubling the ground. But for now, you should be good for the next...............couple of years.? There's a lot of humidity in TN so you'll just need to keep an eye on it.
true on the humidity...lol...cool thanks for the info!!!..doing this mod tonight, hope it will help the crank time
Starting time is greatly reduced, I'm really surprised how quickly it starts up. No more slight miss at idle either.
Ignitor's wires inside the case were really crispy, that was the only thing I ran into that could have been problematic. Ended up using vice grips on the ground screw to get it out for fear of breaking the wires.
Ignitor's wires inside the case were really crispy, that was the only thing I ran into that could have been problematic. Ended up using vice grips on the ground screw to get it out for fear of breaking the wires.
I did this mod and now my car won't start!!
Could it be because I removed my CPS before I did this mod? I'll post some real results when I get a new CPS.
Sorry, had to,
-Mike
Could it be because I removed my CPS before I did this mod?
I'll post some real results when I get a new CPS.Sorry, had to,
-Mike