JDM 2jzgte oil sludge pics? Should I keep this motor?

[Flateric]

Ok, just asking if I should hang onto this motor or give it a pass and move onto another. It's compression is 150-150-155-160-155-160.

These pics show the condition of the cams and the oily hard sludge I am concerned about, or is this nothing to worry about and I should just give it a good once over and run it.

I also checked the oil that was in the motor and while it was old and dirty it was free of any type of metallic particulate that I could detect. Unlike the 2jz motor it is replacing (pics later tonight of that carnage.

 

[89nasupra]

wow, did you ever change your oil? I have seen worse. If you are going to do a complete rebuild i would just get it cleaned and machined if needed.

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

Holy crap the japs either use Pensoil, or never did an oil and just added oil as the level went down.

Unless you got it super cheap & plan to do a complete rebuild save yourself the money and get a better one for the $$
How many miles were on it just figure for what ever it was they didnt change the oil.

 

[hvyman]

My comp is not liking the pics. Are you actually seeing sludge?

Sludge is from not changing the oil and after so long the entire motor will be cover in what looks like honey dried up from top to bottom. To me from the small pics is just looks like a dirty engine.

Sludge builds up like you can take a clean finger and rub it across a few mm and have your finger dirty.

Picture your engine with stiffer jelly attached to the entire engine that is what sludge looks like. I have seen enough engines like that.

Looks more dirty to me but i would pull the pan to know for sure.

If this was a jdm engine there is no doubt wheather it looked like that or not i would rebuld it.

Whats the bottom en look like?

Was it knocking or you dont know?

 

[NashMan]

pull a cam cap off and see if there any massive scoring give yea good idea right for the get go

 

[Poodles]

Seen worse engines that ran fine. It CAN be cleaned though (and will be cleaned passively by any good synthetic, but it will take longer)

 

[tissimo]

pull a cam cap off and see if there any massive scoring give yea good idea right for the get go

+1

 

[Flateric]

This is a JDM engine I have picked up to replace my other 2jz that spun the bearings on the 3rd and forth rods. The engine was fairly cheap and from what I can see and test it looks like a keeper that just needs a good cleaning. I have popped the cams out now and there doesn't appear to be any type of wear at all under the cap or on the caps themselves.

I will be removing the pan tomorow morning as I have to switch it to the rear sump to fit the MA70 chassis again. When the pan is off I will have a further close look and post some more pics here.

The motor was a fair decent deal I think. $1500 (CDN) for the ecu, harness, twins, intake alternator, ignitor, coils etc the works.

The harness is uncut and infact includes all of the aristo body plugs also which is something I have never seen previously. Including the "Big" plug for the main body harness which is sorta nice to have. I have a 30 day warrenty on the block and head and internals and can exchange the motor any time within this period for another I like more.

The oil itself that I drained from the motor was dirty there is no doubt, so it had been in there for awhile, but it did not contain any metallic particles of any visible kind and every bearing I have check so far and the cams have been unmarked in any way. So unless the bottom end hold any big surprises I am thinking that this motor is a keeper.

I also like the harness because it is not as brittle as the last one I delt with, which is surprising due to how grubby this one was on the outside when I first got it anyways.

The supplier is local for me (5 minutes drive) and this is also a big plus. They also were very friendly and willing to do any test I liked and hook up a tranny to any motor I chose so I could compression test it.

 

[mecevans]

thats not sludge, just baked on oil/deposits from it breaking down (normal).looks like the engine was running on conventional its whole life. Running synthetic through it will clean it out in about 2-3 oil changes.

 

[Flateric]

I've heard about running atf fluid, 1/2 quart idle for 5 mins then drain cleans the sludgey dirt out.
Any opinions......

 

[geartech]

Run Shell DELO diesel oil . The detergents in the oil will break that stuff down in minutes. The Audi guys in the shop have the same issue with new(er) cars.
They run the diesel oil in the car for like 30 min after it gets to operating temp. If there is a lot of debris you might have to pull the lower pan to clean them out but it will knock the stuff off of the block and heads quick. DO NOT drive around with this in the car. There is too much chance that it can knock off enough debris that it will block the oil pick up.
Again only use this to clean the eng, Drain and clean out the lower oil pan and oil pump pick up. Then run the normal oil you would use. also change the filter after this.

 

[tissimo]

I've heard about running atf fluid, 1/2 quart idle for 5 mins then drain cleans the sludgey dirt out.
Any opinions......

I wouldn't, just use a good synthetic with a good filter and it'll clean its self up over time.

 

[CyFi6]

ThAT is engine slude. What you have looks pretty normal if you ask me. They probably used a dino oil and ran it a bit long, just pull a couple rod/mains and take a look at the bearings. Mkae sure you look at the upper rod bearings not just the cap side as the upper sees all the load.

http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
If it were me, i would run that though. Its specifically designed to liquify deposits and send them to the filter. Theres been a lot of sucess stories if you search google and i have used it myself. Its not a harsh solvent which will hurt the bearings.

 

[Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE]

I am sorry, but that is not normal.
Even if you run dyno oil.
If you do your oil changes when your are supposed to then that will not happen at all(with the exception of dyno pensoil it breaks down fast).
Just a heads up do not run an engine with that crap in it even with solvents.
My brother had a so called perfect J spec engine from one of these jdm places.
He also inspected the bearings.

It was heavily caked in oil also with no metal deposits he figured he would clean it with synthetic & the sludge would just melt away it didnt it moved around then blocked something off & Kaboom. This stuff can be in the galleys clogging off oil passeges.

When he tried to send it back to the engine place they didnt warrenty it because they said he ran it W/O oil & blew it up.
They said if he would have taken it back before he blew it up then they would have gave him back his money or a new one.

What ever you do dont be stupid about it.

 

[hvyman]

The oil started to break down but its not nearly as bad as it could have been. If you change your oil at the right time you will never get that kind of build up.

 

[Flateric]

Just to be clear for some people whom I think may not have fully read my first post, this isn't my doing, LOL!

I personally would never and have never made an engine end up like this, which is why I had to ask what it was and how bad it is.

Thanks alot though guys, I think I got her figured now. And my JDM engine place has been made aware of whats going on and they still maintain that they will honor the warrenty should any issues arise from anything pretty much.

So I plan to pretty much strip the thing right down and clean it inside and out maticulously, re-assemble with all new gaskets bearings and rings and run it. <<<----and of course all the little steps involved in each of these steps, I'm just summing up of course..

 

[92TealSupra]

For all of you that have not seen this, many JDM 1jz and 2jz motors this is VERY common. Out of the three 1jz I have personally ordered all have looked like this. Even the last car I did for a guy looked like this.. Remember the head is not the only thing dirty.. The oil pan has sludge down there too. When I get these motors I call up Champion Toyota and order a new gasket kit and clean the entire motor with a tooth brush.. After that I get a new timing belt ARP head studs and serpentine belt too. In Japan they do not change their oil often, on top of that these motors have sat for 10 + year..

$0.02 and knowledge.

Here are some pictures to show you. Also I had the Shop do new Valve stem seals and clean the head, this sis how nice it looks after it has been cleaned. I also take the time to paint the block, paint the upper oil pan, and clean the oil pump and everything no the motor, I will say it pays off, it truly does. We're running Castrol edge full syn 10w30 right now as well.

Also if the compression is what you said it is, and they fall in spec, I am not sure what the 1jz spec was again I would not replace the rings.

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[Poodles]

Bilstein engine flush machine

 

[Flateric]

Not replace the rings hey, so those numbers are ok then?

 

[staticpage]

my 1j came really clean i have not seen one like 92TealSupra's