It's Hot as Hell here in Miami! (A/C Question)

[Alex91Mk3]

how do i know for sure my a/c compressor isn't working on my mk3? when i turn the a/c on, i look at the compressor and it doesnt spin.. is it fixable, or gotta get another....dont know squat about a/c compressors....:3d_frown: anyone else from MIAMI???? need some mk3 peeps down here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cry:

 

[da89soup]

I would start with fuses, then wiring, then probibly just except the fact that its a pump. Mabey someone here can hook a brother up??? Or check ebay, or your local parts stores. You will need a charge!!! Hope for no leaks or any other problems.

Also sorry to here about how hot it is in Miami!!! I really feal sorry for you considering you are in Miami and I am stuck here in North Dakota.

 

[lagged]

More double posts?

If it isn't spinning it isn't working. After checking the electrical stuff check the charge, if it's low the compressor will be inhibited. And why do people always wait until the weather cranks up to fix their AC? Parts and service are highest then.

I shouldn't spill this but for those who've converted to Suva (R134a) and are tired of the price you can use most any canned air duster or air horn refill. It's all tetrafluoroethane, exactly the same chemical. Some would argue purity but I know of more than one MVAC system blowing cold on canned "air".

For example the price of a can of 134a in AutoZone is $15. In the same store they'll have a bigger can of Blaster Air Horn Refill for $7. It'll even fit your can tap. For the smaller duster cans use a side tapper. You didn't hear this from me.

Leave it to our gum'mit to regulate refrigerants while millions of air horns and air dusters are dumped into the atmosphere every year...

wowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. im doing my AC in a few weeks as soon as i get everythign running right. great to know!

hey JJ, ive been told that all you really have to do to run r134a is to change the fittings on the high and low side? and that if your system will hold a good vacuum then you dont have to do anything else to run r134a. your thoughts?

 

[Supraboostin]

where in miami u live at?

 

[lagged]

Ouch, no....sorry lagged that's definately not the case. You can do that but the system will lunch in short order. The so called "death kits" sold at auto stores for converting to 134 are somewhat famous for doing this.

The main problem is your compressor is now full of the mineral oil used for CFC-12. The compressor gets lubricated as refrigerant carries oil around the system. Well, mineral oil can't be carried by R134 because the oil isn't miscible in it. No oil lubing your AC compressor is just as bad as none lubing your engine except the bad stuff takes a bit longer to happen.

The compressor soon goes boom and sheds all kinds of junk throughout the system. This usually requires a complete system teardown with big dollars involved. To prevent this R134 needs it's own kind of oil, one that'll circulate with the refrigerant. PAG is the usual oil but Ester is recommened for R12 conversions. Either will work and any auto store will have them.

So at minimum you should replace the oil in the compressor. Then evac, leak test, and charge using 134 to 80% of the CFC-12 charge amount. Test from there and add an ounce at a time if need be.

i was planning on pressure testing the system, then putting a vacuum on it for a few hours to remove any moisture. after that id fill the system with refrigerant and the correct amount of oil. ill most likely be doing this at my friends shop who knows what to do but id like to clear it all up for my self. im unclear though how to remove the oil from the compressor?

 

[sathu]

so how much will it cost you to recharge the ac system at a dealer or a shop instead of a dyi where u can potential screw urself in the nut?:icon_evil My bro discharged the AC when we removed the engine and now it's gona have to be recharge or I'll be roasted in the summer time here in CA.

 

[mrnickleye]

so how much will it cost you to recharge the ac system at a dealer or a shop instead of a dyi where u can potential screw urself in the nut?:icon_evil My bro discharged the AC when we removed the engine and now it's gona have to be recharge or I'll be roasted in the summer time here in CA.

We charge $210 OTD for the whole job.

 

[jetjock]

i was planning on pressure testing the system, then putting a vacuum on it for a few hours to remove any moisture. after that id fill the system with refrigerant and the correct amount of oil. ill most likely be doing this at my friends shop who knows what to do but id like to clear it all up for my self. im unclear though how to remove the oil from the compressor?

 

[bigal0043]

most of us have a targa and just leave it off... plus with the cost of gas... much cheaper.. i used my ac once last summer already used it once this summer because my gf was hot..

 

[lagged]

Pressure test with nitrogen if you can. It's what I use and also to leak check. I add a bit of R22 to the N2 for leak checking purposes but you don't have to. Pressure check at around 200 psi.

Remove the compressor and drain it by tipping it upside down. I don't think the 101P has a drain plug so you just drain it through where the hose mainifold plate was. Add some of the new oil and slowly turn the shaft to disperse it. Drain again and add back the right amount of new oil and reinstall.

Change the reciever/dryer, evac the system, check for leaks, evac again until you get a minimum of 28 in hg and then charge to 80% of the value for R12 as a starting point. Wouldn't hurt to clean the outside of the condensor too.

Considering the WX I'm surprised there aren't more AC posts. Either people are staying on top of it or they don't have it and are sweating it out like real men

awesome! thanks for the help. ive been sweating it out for the past three years. im done with that.

thanks again.