I am looking for a power steering pump for my 91 turbo. I know Aaron at Driftmotion offers a rebuild service. I would like to have a backup for the rebuild time.
Thanks-Fred
Thanks-Fred
It’s been a while.
- Thread starter SWD Fredester 3
- Start date
Thanks for the heads up. I did end up sending the pump to DM for a rebuild, as usual with Aaron great service.
Thought I would update some of the progress on my life long build thread. Recently changed to a Haltech 2500 EMS from my 1st. gen AEM. Big difference in performance. Dyno run last summer posted 611 rwhp. & 580TQ. Kept the fuel map fairly conservative with 19 lbs. boost. With the aggressive cams it hits really hard at 4,000 and runs off of at 7,500. Definitely takes some practice and getting used to. Thinking of retuning in the spring to see if it will run 700 whp. That should be pretty close to the the limit of the Garret GT35R.
I'm just posting a blurb for those that want to rebuild their own pump.
I rebuilt mine 7 years ago and its still not leaking. You can get a rebuild kit on eBay for about $20, or less at RockAuro delivered. Edelmann 8828 PUMP SEAL KIT. It's mainly O-rings and a front seal. The method to follow is in the online manual. Click here to go there. You definitely want to use a puller to take off the front pulley. If you try and pry it off from one side, the shaft or the pulley will become warped. The kit comes with more than is needed so match up the O-rings and clips while removing them so you choose the closest matching ones. The front seal can be installed using a socket with the same outer diameter to tap it in. Note the depth of the old one before removing and lubricate the shaft with a touch of ATF fluid. I've been using Walmart's ATF fluid in the blue bottle for years. Dextron II, III and Mercron approved. You can also flush your system by detaching the return line in the splash pan area and putting it into a gallon jug. Don't start the car but move the wheels slowly side to side empty the rack and pinion. You can draw out some of the old fluid, and the crud, that is stuck on the metal screen in the reservoir before draining the system with a turkey baster or syringe with a narrow hose. If it's a GTE, you can back flush the reservoir after it's removed by spraying some carb cleaner through the bottom and carefully blowing it out to dry with compressed air. Cover the information sticker with blue tape or it could be erased by the carb cleaner. 2 quarts of ATF should be enough to do the entire job. The system capacity is about 1 quart. If you rebuild the pump, leave the return line hanging and run half a quart through the system by moving the wheel slowly back and forth to chase out the old fluid. One of the few times I use screw clamps is on the reservoir hose to the pump. The hose gets hard over time and the spring clamps don't seal after that happens. Same thing applies to the oil cooler output hose by the oil filter.
I rebuilt mine 7 years ago and its still not leaking. You can get a rebuild kit on eBay for about $20, or less at RockAuro delivered. Edelmann 8828 PUMP SEAL KIT. It's mainly O-rings and a front seal. The method to follow is in the online manual. Click here to go there. You definitely want to use a puller to take off the front pulley. If you try and pry it off from one side, the shaft or the pulley will become warped. The kit comes with more than is needed so match up the O-rings and clips while removing them so you choose the closest matching ones. The front seal can be installed using a socket with the same outer diameter to tap it in. Note the depth of the old one before removing and lubricate the shaft with a touch of ATF fluid. I've been using Walmart's ATF fluid in the blue bottle for years. Dextron II, III and Mercron approved. You can also flush your system by detaching the return line in the splash pan area and putting it into a gallon jug. Don't start the car but move the wheels slowly side to side empty the rack and pinion. You can draw out some of the old fluid, and the crud, that is stuck on the metal screen in the reservoir before draining the system with a turkey baster or syringe with a narrow hose. If it's a GTE, you can back flush the reservoir after it's removed by spraying some carb cleaner through the bottom and carefully blowing it out to dry with compressed air. Cover the information sticker with blue tape or it could be erased by the carb cleaner. 2 quarts of ATF should be enough to do the entire job. The system capacity is about 1 quart. If you rebuild the pump, leave the return line hanging and run half a quart through the system by moving the wheel slowly back and forth to chase out the old fluid. One of the few times I use screw clamps is on the reservoir hose to the pump. The hose gets hard over time and the spring clamps don't seal after that happens. Same thing applies to the oil cooler output hose by the oil filter.
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