Poodles;1294280 said:
If you have an old coolant line this is a MAJOR PITA. I find it much easier to just remove the ISC bolts and the easiest to reach coolant line to get it out of the way.
Issues Calibrating the TPS on an 89 supra 7m-gte
- Thread starter SUPRASTEVE
- Start date
If you have an old coolant line this is a MAJOR PITA. I find it much easier to just remove the ISC bolts and the easiest to reach coolant line to get it out of the way.
IwantMKIII;1294229 said:
Ehh its always had that code. It feels better than it did but its not perfect I am going to have my friend help me on it when ever he has a chance I am just done with messing with it.
The problem is when I did this post I had already put the TB in. It's no big deal when my pal comes over I'll have him calibrate it then we will time it.
SUPRASTEVE;1295211 said:
I'd be willing to agree the the ISC is the easiest thing to remove as well. Good idea to clean that diaphragm as well, as it tends to get a bit sooty. I happened to have my TB off for a "reset" at the time that I replaced and calibrated the TPS.
The easiest way I have found to set the TPS is to drop the glove box so can gain access to the TCCS. Then let the TCCS hang by the harness and plug in my leads from my Fluke digital meter to IDL and E2 on the harness. Then I pull the meter out the window and set it on top the the ABS unit, under the hood, so i can see it wile I set it.
why dont you do a search and find the appropriate item(s) that would be removed. there are many threads that explain it all. Or better yet, why not go into the standalone/piggyback section in the forum...you dont need to try and hi-jack a thread.....:3d_frown:
I have a question about the deflection. I am using an analog meter to mesure ohms, but I am not getting a sharp change in resistance between e2 and idl. on x1 and x10 it shows infinite at any position on the tps. At x1k it shows about 5k at full ccw, but never drops sharply towards 0. It slowly drops as I turn the tps clockwise. Thanks for reading.
IwantMKIII;1293658 said:
Well I tried your theory and I got it to where it keeps on blinking no more codes it just keeps blinking and the car felt better afterwards. I also took off the bottom end of the lower ic pipe it seemed to have alike a chunck of rubber eaten away like a gash. I couldn't find a hole but I wasn't able to reach the part that went directly to the turbo. I will do this when I have more time.
SUPRASTEVE;1312012 said:
GJ. Glad to see it worked out. Keep in mind you should STILL be within TSRM specs for the 0-1V with throttle closed. If you go above that the ECU may think you are constantly on the throttle. This is why i mentioned to rotate it in very small increments. Personally mine chimes in right around .555 volts, if i go even to .550 volts i will get code 51 so i pushed it to .556 and was done with it. That lower IC pipe is a royal PITA. I would HIGHLY recommend changing it out for a hard pipe. I've been stranded a few times because mine blew out. The lower IC pipe is also a place where PSI tends to be lost from expansion. Its worth it to replace.
IwantMKIII;1312432 said:
yeah I got the basics down, just need to fine tune with the meter. Yeah that pipe sucks a big one. Hopefully thats all it is, that pipe and not the heads valves or something or the turbo.