Is there a good 'Doward' type solution for the rear brakes?

[Trnsprtr]

I've only been able to put a few miles on my front Mustang Cobra brakes as I just recently got my ABS troubles fixed but I can already tell it has an insane return on investment. I used all new parts and still got it done for roughly 600 or so.

Time to do the rears - I'm looking for a similar approach; not costing a fortune and using OEM parts that offer higher performance than the stock brakes.

The MkIV rear brakes approach would be fine but I haven't noticed any vendors that have the shims for the rotors.

Anybody out there have actual adaptation parts in stock for doing a Supra, 350Z, Cobra, etc. swap on the rear?

 

[OneJArpus]

i believe there is a kit roaming around to use 300c rear calipers and rotors (mkiv caliper & rotor match) but for a lot less...

 

[Trnsprtr]

You must mean SC300

 

[hvyman]

Use mk4 rears. For all new with ebc redshift is about 600. Pads from kragen and rotors and calipers from napa. Sc should be the same.

It's not direct bolt on but really close.

 

[destrux]

Why the rear brakes though? Just looks?

They're already vented and fairly large as far as rear brakes go, so I really doubt they're overheating. They only do about 20% of the braking in stock configuration. You reduced the work they're doing by increasing your front bias with those huge cobra brakes, probably down to about 10% or less. Consider removing the stock proportioning valve and adding a manual bias adjuster. Then put more pressure back to the rear calipers so they can do their share of the work. You'd have to test lockup on dry and wet roads (and snow if you drive in it) to make sure you don't go overboard and end up with rear brakes that lock before the fronts though.

Check this article out, good info...

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_rearbrake_upgrades.shtml

 

[IJ.]

A well sorted chassis and big tires WILL work rears hard, I did a run through some twisties here and logged it with the MoTeC and after 55 corners I was out of brakes front and rear, it had boiled the fluid and changed the Temp reactive paint on all 4 rotors with the rears being 100c cooler than the fronts.

An upgrade is well worth the effort, mine were Mk4 Rotors f&r with 4 piston AP Racing calipers.

 

[hvyman]

Mk4 rears are also a tad bigger and dual piston. More efficient.

Also the bias will be where it should if you do the rears and then you dont have to modify and anything other than doing the rear brakes. No adjustments.

 

[NashMan]

A well sorted chassis and big tires WILL work rears hard, I did a run through some twisties here and logged it with the MoTeC and after 55 corners I was out of brakes front and rear, it had boiled the fluid and changed the Temp reactive paint on all 4 rotors with the rears being 100c cooler than the fronts.

An upgrade is well worth the effort, mine were Mk4 Rotors f&r with 4 piston AP Racing calipers.

when you drive an auto you use your brakes more

 

[IJ.]

when you drive an auto you use your brakes more

Used to use the rears just as hard with the 5 speed Ryan...

Tempilstat paint doesn't lie.

 

[Trnsprtr]

Thank you for the inputs. MkIV rears seem to be one of the more common ways to go for what I'm looking to do so I just have to ask: for the 1mm or so shim needed between the MkIII hub and the MkIV rotor, does anyone have contact info for a shop that has already successfully made something? I'm in and out of machine shops all the time but I'd prefer to deal with someone who has already made this and ideally still has the program so they don't have to 'reinvent the wheel'.

Even whoever made the rings that were used in the Doward kit might work out - I had to do a significant amount of shaving on those as I use wheel spacers.

 

[Trnsprtr]

Why the rear brakes though? Just looks?

They're already vented and fairly large as far as rear brakes go, so I really doubt they're overheating. They only do about 20% of the braking in stock configuration. You reduced the work they're doing by increasing your front bias with those huge cobra brakes, probably down to about 10% or less. Consider removing the stock proportioning valve and adding a manual bias adjuster. Then put more pressure back to the rear calipers so they can do their share of the work. You'd have to test lockup on dry and wet roads (and snow if you drive in it) to make sure you don't go overboard and end up with rear brakes that lock before the fronts though.

Check this article out, good info...

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_rearbrake_upgrades.shtml

Thank you for the link - I hadn't seen that one.

Couple reasons to do the rears - looks is part of it, the rears look downright silly with the monster brakes in front - but not the driving cause. I need new rotors and pads for the rears, and I know the calipers are at least 15 years old ('cuz that's how long I've had them) - so for a couple hundred over what I'd spend anyways I can put higher performing brakes on (same reason I did the fronts).