The colors I chose were white and red. The indicator lights are lighting up, but when I turn the lights on they shut off and the button lights don't turn on. Im going to install new resistors and hope that it fixes the problem. Do you guys have any other suggestion so I can post pics of the finished job. I'll also be posting pics of the progress of my interior and exterior overhaul.
Installed New CC LED's
- Thread starter Suprastic
- Start date
Suprastic said:
check to make sure that you hazzard light switch is plugged in, and that your dimmer is plugged in. (mainly the dimmer) most commonly, the rheostat in the dimmer craps itself and when you turn the lights on, the climate control lights will go out.
-shaeff
Make sure that the dimmer is on high enough to keep them lit as well... please don't ask how I know to check that.
i installed blue and they didn't need new resistors.... it depeonds on the turn on voltage of the LED.
Very cool. im interested in doing a White LED conversion for EVERY light in the dash of the car, including gauge cluster. i also wanted to do G35 Coupe-style tail lights for the rear of my 89. but, thatd take DAYS. and alot of 10mm LED's, solder, board stuffs.
now, the way LED's work, you need to get the Input voltage to match the rated voltage of teh LED in order to have them work as advertised. you can overdrive the LED's by giving them a few more tenths of a volt and get more brightness, right?
but, cant you wire four 3v LED's in parallel config and get the input voltage close to the 3v that they use? or would you have to wire the + to one leg of the 1st LED, and then wire the other 3 in Series, and the - wire to the leg of the LAST LED? I think id have to wire the LED's in Series to get the Voltage to break down to 3v across the 4 LED's with a 12v input, right? then, i could get away without using resistors and simply Add LED's in series to buffer the input voltage?
Ive never done this sort of thing... so help me figure out this LED stuff
now, the way LED's work, you need to get the Input voltage to match the rated voltage of teh LED in order to have them work as advertised. you can overdrive the LED's by giving them a few more tenths of a volt and get more brightness, right?
but, cant you wire four 3v LED's in parallel config and get the input voltage close to the 3v that they use? or would you have to wire the + to one leg of the 1st LED, and then wire the other 3 in Series, and the - wire to the leg of the LAST LED? I think id have to wire the LED's in Series to get the Voltage to break down to 3v across the 4 LED's with a 12v input, right? then, i could get away without using resistors and simply Add LED's in series to buffer the input voltage?
Ive never done this sort of thing... so help me figure out this LED stuff
flubyux2 said:Very cool. im interested in doing a White LED conversion for EVERY light in the dash of the car, including gauge cluster.QUOTE]
I am doing the same thing
I just ordered my 10mm leds off ebay
120k MCD.
HOLY SHIT THAT IS BRIGHT!
flubyux2 said:Very cool. im interested in doing a White LED conversion for EVERY light in the dash of the car, including gauge cluster. i also wanted to do G35 Coupe-style tail lights for the rear of my 89. but, thatd take DAYS. and alot of 10mm LED's, solder, board stuffs.
now, the way LED's work, you need to get the Input voltage to match the rated voltage of teh LED in order to have them work as advertised. you can overdrive the LED's by giving them a few more tenths of a volt and get more brightness, right?
but, cant you wire four 3v LED's in parallel config and get the input voltage close to the 3v that they use? or would you have to wire the + to one leg of the 1st LED, and then wire the other 3 in Series, and the - wire to the leg of the LAST LED? I think id have to wire the LED's in Series to get the Voltage to break down to 3v across the 4 LED's with a 12v input, right? then, i could get away without using resistors and simply Add LED's in series to buffer the input voltage?
Ive never done this sort of thing... so help me figure out this LED stuff
FYI: you should NEVER run LEDs in parallel. always in series.
in a string... battery -+-+-+-+-+ back to battery
ideal, why do you say not to run in parallel!?
ideal, why do you say not to run in parallel!?
I'm pretty sure it's because things in series run the same amount of current and things in parallel run the same amount of voltage. So if you have your LEDs wired in parallel and one blows, the amount of current going to the rest of your LEDs will change to make sure they have the same amount of voltage (thanks to the open circuit caused by the blown LED) across them. So if an LED is rated at having a max of 20mA or something like that and now you have something like 30ma...death to all your LEDs ensue.
However! If you have them connected in series, same amount of current always, unless one blows, then none of them will light up. But LEDs are not so likely to die if your current is correct.
However! If you have them connected in series, same amount of current always, unless one blows, then none of them will light up. But LEDs are not so likely to die if your current is correct.
I finally hooked up the dimmer switch to see how the new LED's in the gauge cluster and CC looked, and all I can say is that they look incredible. There are no hotspots, all have eeven distribution, and the CC doesn't look yellow with the new hyper white LEDs. My gaude cluster and CC is hyper white, with bright red indicaters and gauge needles. It look almost exactly like the new luxury cars that are using LED's as dash lights. I'll post pics when I get home.
iv'e got the same problem actually... how do you replace the dimmer switch, or repair it? what is needed? do you replace the whole switch or just a resisistor or something?