Hey, My ecu recently died.. I gave it to my bro to look at and it seems the big green caps are the cuplrit.. He thinks they are 155k 100u or something? anyone know if this is correct and where to get them if it is? radio shack?
Injector Caps
- Thread starter tissimo
- Start date
but I could buy the caps for like 10$ and have my brother fix them..
I might have a line of some.. but if you have any ideas lmk..
I might have a line of some.. but if you have any ideas lmk..
I have got some green Mountain Dew caps in the trunk. I will give you a great price on them Justin :rofl:
yea but then you'd just be replacing it with the stock style stuff.
Nate is getting some High temp ones for my ecu. i dunno if they are a different number or anything
btw the ecu that Justin is talking about is the one that just recently fried in my car.
Nate is getting some High temp ones for my ecu. i dunno if they are a different number or anything
btw the ecu that Justin is talking about is the one that just recently fried in my car.
i also put up some info in my build thread, some of the capacitors in the ECU are Polarity sensitive so you need to make sure you are putting them back in the right way around.
here is the info i got from my guy
There was a total of aprox two dozen changed.
here are the different types of Capacitors that are in there
There are basically three types of capacitors here.
1 Mylar, These are the metal can type = These give the highest fail
rate. These are polarity sensitive
2 Ceramic. These are the little ones that are square or round flat
type. these give the middle fail rate
3 Tantalum. Those are the ones that look like a tear drop and have a
gold or silver dot on the top. gold=5% tol. silevr = 10% tol. These only fail if you see they have exploded. these are also polarity sensitive
Tantalum capaciators are sensitive to low temperature. In -55C they will explode just by turning on the engine key. That is why they are normally made to +55C and -75C.
Ninja Edit, after having everything fixed, my ECU Runs great
If you really want to upgrade, change all the can type Capacitors for the new Solid state stuff that is out there, much longer life
here is the info i got from my guy
There was a total of aprox two dozen changed.
here are the different types of Capacitors that are in there
There are basically three types of capacitors here.
1 Mylar, These are the metal can type = These give the highest fail
rate. These are polarity sensitive
2 Ceramic. These are the little ones that are square or round flat
type. these give the middle fail rate
3 Tantalum. Those are the ones that look like a tear drop and have a
gold or silver dot on the top. gold=5% tol. silevr = 10% tol. These only fail if you see they have exploded. these are also polarity sensitive
Tantalum capaciators are sensitive to low temperature. In -55C they will explode just by turning on the engine key. That is why they are normally made to +55C and -75C.
Ninja Edit, after having everything fixed, my ECU Runs great
If you really want to upgrade, change all the can type Capacitors for the new Solid state stuff that is out there, much longer life
everyone says they are good. if nate can't get mine done by thursday night or friday then i'll be taking mine to Jestr. i need my car up and running asap. and i know it doesn't take a full damn week to solder those things in there
yea but if you can pay 5 bucks for Caps and have your bro do it for free why would you pay 50 bucks?? thats why justin wants to know which ones to get not where to take it.
The Reaper said:
I look at it a little different. You can get the caps for $5 and have it done for free. However, there is still a risk that you could get the wrong caps or resistors that could cause permanent damage to the ECU. Or, you can pay $50 for someone's experience that has done it before and not risk the ECU. I tend to stay on the side of caution when it is something that I havent done before coupled with the fact that 1J ECUS are not readily available outside of the F/S area on the forums. But then again, $5 is a lot cheaper than $50 and I remember back in the day when $50 might as well have been $5,000 when I only had $6 to last me a week until payday back in the military many, many moons ago. So I know how you feel.
considering that his brother works on Motherboards every hour that he is at work i think he knows what he is doing.
but spend the 50 not a big deal to me
im paying 25 plus parts for mine and i should have it by friday and he's replacing it with ones that can handle higher temps than the stockers. he solders in chips all the time for honda guys. im sure he knows what he is doing.
if it fails again then i learned my lesson so no biggie
but spend the 50 not a big deal to me
im paying 25 plus parts for mine and i should have it by friday and he's replacing it with ones that can handle higher temps than the stockers. he solders in chips all the time for honda guys. im sure he knows what he is doing.
if it fails again then i learned my lesson so no biggie
I can give you a rundown from experience, Had one done with Edrick at Jester its a 5 speed one and i have not tested it on a manual car, but it started and ran an auto car with no code 0 spent 65$ with shipping and such.
Just got back another one from Jester and it has the same problem it had code 0 when it left and still has it?
In the mean time Pete took an auto one we had laying around and replaced a bunch of capacitors and resistors and it runs great no codes.
I will be talking with Edrick today to quiz him on a few things i found in the ecu he reacently repaired with no succes.
I think Nate is holding out for some parts to give a try at it.
So at this point it still hit or miss so 10 dollars of parts cant really hurt anything that is already useless.
Just got back another one from Jester and it has the same problem it had code 0 when it left and still has it?
In the mean time Pete took an auto one we had laying around and replaced a bunch of capacitors and resistors and it runs great no codes.
I will be talking with Edrick today to quiz him on a few things i found in the ecu he reacently repaired with no succes.
I think Nate is holding out for some parts to give a try at it.
So at this point it still hit or miss so 10 dollars of parts cant really hurt anything that is already useless.
I never said he didnt know what he was doing. I was saying it could be damaged by not using the correct resistor. I am sure it will go fine especially considering Rob has shown that they come back from the other guy still throwing codes and if the ECU is dead, you cant really make it deadier, not sure if that is even a word
well bob get on nate about my ecu. he said it will be done by friday. i dropped it off Monday evening and was hoping to have it back before the meet. but as long as i get it back working i'll be happy.
i just didn't think it would take a week
i just didn't think it would take a week