Infuriating Brake Job

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thunderz

Restoring 1987
Jul 28, 2006
32
0
0
Indianapolis, Indiana
www.smithautomotiveartwork.com
theWeezL said:
On both my supras Ive had that same problem. Once those slides get all gummed up they can be nearly impossible to get off the mount bracket.

Here is what I have done with some success. Take the caliper out of the car completely (dont forget to cap off the brake line so you dont drop all your fluid). While you have it out on the bench, pull back the rubber boot and spray some PbBlaster in there and let is soak in for a bit. "Unfold" the caliper from the bracket as far as it will go (it will almost go a full 180 degrees from the bracket). Hold the bracket in your hand and let the caliper hang down. Using a sledge hammer (I have a nice 6lb with a short handle) start beating on the caliper in the direction it needs to go slide it off the bushing. I recommend this method because while you are banging on the caliper pretty hard, the fact that its not clamped to anything means you arent likely to bend or break any of the parts (just dont hit the "fingers" of the caliper directly or you risk fracturing the cast itron.)

It may take a little while but it will eventually come off the bracket. Ive done this to at least 3 calipers and I was able to get all of them off eventually.

once you get them it off its just a matter of cleaning up the bushing and the sleave with some fine steel wool and light oil. Then relube and put everything back together.

Personally, I would rebuild the caliper while its out. The kits are only like 5 bucks each and the job only really requires an air compressor (to get the piston out)

PS, Im doing this today as well on my 89...so I know the pain!
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Thanks for the good info. Unfotunately I am living in an apartment complex between houses and my work bench is in storage...so its going to be an on car pounding I guess. I have been spraying it with wd40 since last night. Thanks again.
 
Facime

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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thunderz said:
Thanks for the good info. Unfotunately I am living in an apartment complex between houses and my work bench is in storage...so its going to be an on car pounding I guess. I have been spraying it with wd40 since last night. Thanks again.
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dont matter if you dont have a bench. But believe me, you wanna pull the line off that caliper and work with it OFF the car. If you dont you wont be able to get a decent attack angle, you risk damaging the brake line and/or the backing plate. Just speaking from my experience.
 
Facime

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
2,716
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Corvallis OR
Well Ive worked on a couple real stubborn ones and they both came apart eventually. Like I said I beat on it with a 6lb for a good 5 minutes to get it off all the way. dunno what else to tell ya
 
Clip

Clip

The Magnificent Seven
Oct 16, 2005
2,738
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Virginia
nah, im not quite sure what the context is, but usually when you heat a nut or a stud, you're trying to make it expand slightly to make it easier to remove. therefore, you try not to heat the stud that the nut is on, both would expand and you'd probably be in the same place you were. again, not sure if you're talking about this step, but its just an interesting piece of info.
 
T

thunderz

Restoring 1987
Jul 28, 2006
32
0
0
Indianapolis, Indiana
www.smithautomotiveartwork.com
Clip said:
nah, im not quite sure what the context is, but usually when you heat a nut or a stud, you're trying to make it expand slightly to make it easier to remove. therefore, you try not to heat the stud that the nut is on, both would expand and you'd probably be in the same place you were. again, not sure if you're talking about this step, but its just an interesting piece of info.
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The idea was to heat the metal surrounding the shaft and break its hold on it. The metal on the outside should heat much faster than the shaft inside thus expanding around the shaft and loosening its grip. This usually works, but didnt in this case.
 
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