hey whats up..names Ricky, 26 years old. I just picked up a 92 supra with a BHG and a crappy ct26 (needs a rebuild) Anywho..Any Northern indiana/Southern 'Yota tuners around here?
Indiana Noob here.. With a Poll :D
- Thread starter slow_yota
- Start date
Welcome to the forum. I live an hour south of Indy.
I bought my car with a BHG, replaced with stock type gasket and arp studs, have been running a year on about 12-13 psi without any problems.
A 1j is nice but costs alot more then a turbo rebuild and go through of the 7m.
I bought my car with a BHG, replaced with stock type gasket and arp studs, have been running a year on about 12-13 psi without any problems.
A 1j is nice but costs alot more then a turbo rebuild and go through of the 7m.
Boost Lee & MDCMotorsports are unfortunate enough to be in the middle of nowhere, they should be close to you. Check with them 
<aside, to Boost Lee>Hehe just kidding Jeffypoo, Indy's alright (if you say so)</aside>
Anyways, Ricky, it depends a lot. Can you work on it yourself? If not, do you have disposable income and access to another vehicle? Cuz yeah its a fairly common problem, but generally speaking if you get it done right the first time, replace with ARP bolts or studs torqued properly, and don't go to crazy w/ mods, you should be fine.
If you can pull the motor and get the block machined and install a metal head gasket, everything done right, even better chances of it running fine there.
Of course, these cars have plenty of other things that can go wrong with them, so if you're on a tight budget you may be better off going with something cheaper.
What kinda shape is the rest of the car in?
<aside, to Boost Lee>Hehe just kidding Jeffypoo, Indy's alright (if you say so)</aside>
Anyways, Ricky, it depends a lot. Can you work on it yourself? If not, do you have disposable income and access to another vehicle? Cuz yeah its a fairly common problem, but generally speaking if you get it done right the first time, replace with ARP bolts or studs torqued properly, and don't go to crazy w/ mods, you should be fine.
If you can pull the motor and get the block machined and install a metal head gasket, everything done right, even better chances of it running fine there.
Of course, these cars have plenty of other things that can go wrong with them, so if you're on a tight budget you may be better off going with something cheaper.
What kinda shape is the rest of the car in?
Id keep it. the time and effort that you put into fully building the motor yourself, will make you grateful later and appreciate it that much more. It should be well worth it. The guys and gals here are really helpful and can tell you anything you want to know about your supra. so stick around and ask away. they are always willing to help.
I'm a big beliver in if done right it won't be a problem. Most of the people that keep coming back with a BHG have cut a corner here or there and though it wouldn't get them. I'm going on 3 years on a correctly redone stock HG and have not had a single problem. It's true the 7M is less forgiving of cut corners and half assed jobs than other cars, but it's also true that when done right the 7M is an impressive engine and the HG is a non issue.
This is an important statement, it rings true simply because of the demographic the MKIII attracts.
Don't be one of those 99 people and you won't have a problem.
This is an important statement, it rings true simply because of the demographic the MKIII attracts.
Supracentral said:
Don't be one of those 99 people and you won't have a problem.
What's up, Ricky!
I'm located right here in the heart of Indiana!
There are a few SB Supra's I know of in your remote area, and then quite a bit of Supras in Central and Southern Indiana.
But yeah, have patience with your Supra, understand it's an old car and once you get around your maintenance issues, it's a hell of a powerplant to work with. :icon_surp
Enough about that, I'd like some details on this '92 of yours.
Congrats on owning 1 of 1,193 1992 Supra's ever made!
Look forward to seeing/meeting up sometime...
Chad - Shut up. LOL
-Jeff
I'm located right here in the heart of Indiana!
There are a few SB Supra's I know of in your remote area, and then quite a bit of Supras in Central and Southern Indiana.
But yeah, have patience with your Supra, understand it's an old car and once you get around your maintenance issues, it's a hell of a powerplant to work with. :icon_surp
Enough about that, I'd like some details on this '92 of yours.
Congrats on owning 1 of 1,193 1992 Supra's ever made!
Look forward to seeing/meeting up sometime...
Chad - Shut up. LOL
-Jeff
As Kimchee up there said - keep the car.
Do it right the first time, and you'll be happy.
Don't skimp. If the part is expensive, and its the right part, and a quality part -
Do it right the first time, and you'll be happy.
Don't skimp. If the part is expensive, and its the right part, and a quality part -
BUY IT
So long time since ive been back on here..Hmm..Engine pretty much needs a total rebuild, tore it down..Upon tear down i noticed:
-cracked cast manifold
-bhg for sure..parts of the hg werent even there..lol
-3 leaky f.i.'s
-oil feed/oil cooler lines in need of replacement
-broken rod due to lack of oil says uncle (head tech at gm dealership)
Where to find forged pistons/rods?
-cracked cast manifold
-bhg for sure..parts of the hg werent even there..lol
-3 leaky f.i.'s
-oil feed/oil cooler lines in need of replacement
-broken rod
due to lack of oil says uncle (head tech at gm dealership)Where to find forged pistons/rods?
Hmm, stroker..Sounds sexy.foreverpsycotic said:
Budget..Hmm, in the total rebuild..prolly 1500-2g in the actual engine when im done.But i dont have that much cash on me..Thats how much i'll have after i save for a lil while and do my research.I'll prolly just buy pieces here and there and have an engine builder/shop do the labor and balance the products for me.
If you're going to have a shop do the work for you, I can see the cost of the rebuild increasing significantly. In fact, if you have a shop do all your work I can see the cost of owning the car rising significantly. Anyway, it's up to you. A couple things to consider, though.
Make sure it's a quality shop with good equipment and better knowledge. If the people there look at you funny when you ask them to machine the head to a specific RA (Roughness Average if you don't know), then that's probably not the best shop to do your Supra-related business with. If THEY don't do their work to the proper levels required by the car, YOU are going to end up paying for the same repairs over and over until they get it right. Metal head gaskets (the only logical choice on a turbo engine until that company making copper ones comes through) are unforgiving of improper machine work, as is the rest of the engine. In fact, I can think of no better time to pull out the words "precision-engineered machinery" than when describing the MkIII's drivetrain.
So, in short, ask the right questions and don't settle for anything less than everything. Supras are divas, and they'll punish you for cut corners and neglect. They don't just want the best, they REQUIRE it.
That said, congratulations on owning the rarest year MkIII ever! Good luck and enjoy the ride, it's definitely going to be worth all the trouble and expense in the end. There's a reason we say anything else is just transportation.
Make sure it's a quality shop with good equipment and better knowledge. If the people there look at you funny when you ask them to machine the head to a specific RA (Roughness Average if you don't know), then that's probably not the best shop to do your Supra-related business with. If THEY don't do their work to the proper levels required by the car, YOU are going to end up paying for the same repairs over and over until they get it right. Metal head gaskets (the only logical choice on a turbo engine until that company making copper ones comes through) are unforgiving of improper machine work, as is the rest of the engine. In fact, I can think of no better time to pull out the words "precision-engineered machinery" than when describing the MkIII's drivetrain.
So, in short, ask the right questions and don't settle for anything less than everything. Supras are divas, and they'll punish you for cut corners and neglect. They don't just want the best, they REQUIRE it.
That said, congratulations on owning the rarest year MkIII ever! Good luck and enjoy the ride, it's definitely going to be worth all the trouble and expense in the end. There's a reason we say anything else is just transportation.
I didn't vote because the rebuilding of a 7m would be easier to me than installing a 1jz, plus it would have new parts in the motor. However, I decided to go with the 1jz when my 7m started knocking so it sounds like I'm being hypocritical. I dont' regret going 1jz, but while doing the swap I really regretted it because I could have been driving my car alot sooner had I just rebuilt it. Good luck.
Something to consider:
If you decide to go 1JZ, just skip it and go 2JZ. It's a 3 liter instead of a 2.5 like the 1JZ, the block handles more power, and parts are much more readily available. After all, the 1JZ-GTE never came stateside whereas the 2JZ-GTE is commonly found in the MkIV Supra Twin-Turbo.
If you decide to go 1JZ, just skip it and go 2JZ. It's a 3 liter instead of a 2.5 like the 1JZ, the block handles more power, and parts are much more readily available. After all, the 1JZ-GTE never came stateside whereas the 2JZ-GTE is commonly found in the MkIV Supra Twin-Turbo.
i have never had a bhg.. had rod knock twice, but that was my own stupidity. i bought my 4th supra with the engine on a stand and teh head in a box. I bought a standard felpro gasket, arp head studs, and torqued the studs to 90ft lbs. Ive ran up to 26psi, no problems. When it blows again, ill rebuild, and go metal HG.
correct me if im wrong, but its not really the 7M that blows head gaskets, its the stock bolts.
correct me if im wrong, but its not really the 7M that blows head gaskets, its the stock bolts.
Actually, SupraDupra, it's the stock HG torque that blows HGs, not the 7m or the bolts. Stock torque is only 52 lbs. Recommended torque is higher, around 72-75. Most people just use ARP bolts instead of the OEMs because that kind of torque reading is on the upper end of what the Toyota bolts can do, being designed for much less. At least, that's what I remember being told.
In reality, it basically is. It's just the torque specs on the bolts that give the 7M a bad reputation for "BHG".
I'm running a Felpro headgasket as well. I've abused it quite a bit and ran all kinds of boost numbers under all sorts of different circumstances...and it still holds up fine.
Same as ^ said, once I blow it, MHG is on path.
-Jeff
I'm running a Felpro headgasket as well. I've abused it quite a bit and ran all kinds of boost numbers under all sorts of different circumstances...and it still holds up fine.
Same as ^ said, once I blow it, MHG is on path.
-Jeff
That was more of a guesstimate.If it goes beyond that then so be it..Im in no big hurry for this project to be up and running.I have other cars to race/drive.
I have heard that indy has a few toyota only shops that i will prolly drive down to and have them do the work.Maybe Boost lee can refer me to a specific one..I would like to do the work myself but i dont think i would trust myself for alot of it.
As for the rebuild..How does this look?
Major Engine Kit: contains complete gasket set, set of pistons and rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, timing belt, balance shaft bearings (if applicable), and a set of expansion plugs. Pistons & Rings: Std., .020, .040. Bearings: Std., 10, 20, 30 And complete timing kit & oil pump
$646.84
http://www.performance-auto-parts.com/engine-rebuild-kits/engine-rebuild-kits-toyota.php
I have heard that indy has a few toyota only shops that i will prolly drive down to and have them do the work.Maybe Boost lee can refer me to a specific one..I would like to do the work myself but i dont think i would trust myself for alot of it.
As for the rebuild..How does this look?
Major Engine Kit: contains complete gasket set, set of pistons and rings, main bearings, rod bearings, thrust washers, timing belt, balance shaft bearings (if applicable), and a set of expansion plugs. Pistons & Rings: Std., .020, .040. Bearings: Std., 10, 20, 30 And complete timing kit & oil pump
$646.84
http://www.performance-auto-parts.com/engine-rebuild-kits/engine-rebuild-kits-toyota.php
i almost bought that same setup, but after much debate i decided to go with forged pistons and rods.slow_yota said: