*Important Mk3 Audio Information*

[RoadRaceMK3]

I'm the Audio moderator over on SRTforums.com and couldn't stand to see this bare, uninformative section any longer. I went through all 13 pages of information in this section and made a brief list of the important stuff. Please let me know anything else I need to add or if anything is incorrect and I'll keep it updated. Anyways, hope this helps clean this section up a bit.

General Mk3 Car Audio Information:

Speakers Sizes

General 4.5” Speaker Information:
- Rear Speakers on all Mk3s
- Actual size is 4T, a football shaped speaker roughly 4.5”
- Can be replaced w/ 5.25” speakers w/ some sealing modification

1988s and down
- (4) Speakers
- 4” Door Speakers (2)
- 4.5" Rear Speakers (2)

1989s and 1990s
- (6) Speakers
- 4” Door Speakers (2)
- 4.5" Rear Speakers (2)
- 3.5” Side Rear Speakers (2)

1991s and 1992s
- (6) Speakers
- 6.5" Door Speakers (2)
- 4.5” Rear Speakers (2)
- 3.5" Side Rear Speakers (2)

Routing Amp Power Wire:
- Can be routed through the firewall, there's hole just behind the ventilation boxes on the passengers side that's covered with a rubber cap
- Can also use a plug in the inner fender wall.

Factory Amplifier:
- Mk3 OEM Headunits are not internally amplified.
- Amplifier is located under passenger seat.

AUX Input options on OEM Headunit:
- Easier to swap headunits with aftermarket or different OEM Toyota than modifying OEM Supra for AUX input.

Have dimming lights? DO NOT USE CAPACITATORS!
- First, check alternator is still operational.
- Second, run the Big 3. (How To coming soon)
- Third, replace battery with a newer or deep cycle battery.
- Fourth, replace alternator with High Output from different Toyota model (Mr2 100a for example) or aftermarket.

Headunit Information:
- Single or Double DIN

In order to use the stock headunit with an aftermarket amplifier:
- You must buy a LOC (Line Out Converter) which takes the signal used for a speaker and transfers it to RCA's for the amplifier to use.
- You do not have to give up speakers to do this, you are just tying into their signal.

There is NO single best Subwoofer combination!
- All subwoofers fit different needs, whether it be SQ, SPL, or a mix.
- Feel free to PM me with ideas for setups.


Mk3 Specific:

Wiring Harness Diagram:
http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf

Front Door Panel/Speaker Removal/Install:
Front door speaker, door panel, removal and replacement. - SupraMania
or
MK3 TSRM On-Line

Rear Speaker Removal/Install:
speaker replacement - SupraMania

E-Brake Bypass for DVD Player:
e-brake bypass for dvd player - SupraMania

OEM Sub:
OEM Sub - SupraMania

Stock HU Replacement w/ different Toyota OEM Headunit:
Stock HU replacement with a Toyota Stock Head Unit Radio - SupraMania

Custom Sub Box Picture Thread:
pics of custom sub box - SupraMania

Custom Sub Box Picture Thread 2:
Let me see your trunks! - SupraMania

Headunit Picture Thread:
Post pics of your HU - SupraMania




General Audio Threads (More links coming soon!):


Woofer Wiring Wizard:
Rockford Fosgate® - Woofer WiringWizard

Enclosure Calculator:
RE Enclosure Calculator

Bass Track Thread:
good bass songs - SupraMania

SPL Db Thread:
whats your Db? how loud is your ride? - SupraMania




Still looking for the following information:
- Speaker mounting depth for each of the year subsets.
- Headunit install guide or How-To.
- Headunit install part numbers for wire harness and dash kit.
- Anything else important you know and I don't!​

 

[te72]

Good post man! I've always liked having a nice system in my Supras, but rarely listen to them when the intoxicating sound of the turbo and exhaust is filling my ears

 

[RoadRaceMK3]

Good post man! I've always liked having a nice system in my Supras, but rarely listen to them when the intoxicating sound of the turbo and exhaust is filling my ears

Mine won't even have a system, but my roomie and I will be installing some nice stuff in his not too long from now. We'll throw up some build threads when we start. :naughty:

 

[gurley0916]

Damn man good job with the all the info this really helped out the audio section. Cant wait to start on my speaker setups so we can get those build threads up.:naughty:

 

[thedave925]

Whats up with not using capacitors?

My setup:
New alternator, OEM Turbo
relocated battery,
4awg power from alt, 4awg ground in rear body, naked metal contact of course
Grounds have been freshened up or old wires replaced
Optima yellow top
aftermarket headunit, 50w rms x 4 @ 4ohms, internal amp off for the amp
5 ch amp, 4ch 50w rms @ 4ohms, Sub 300w rms @ 4 ohms

Hella E-Code headlights, 50w?? not positive of the draw

I was about to reinstall my 5 farad cap to stop the dimming headlights.

The only thing i know is wrong with my setup is that i'm using manual reseting automotive circuit breakers instead of fuses, which i'm sure is robbing me of full flow.

And I have to thank you for taking the time to put in all that info!!
Kick Ass

 

[suprarx7nut]

Wow, 4 posts and you've contributed more than most people on here seem to in a year. I tip my hat to you sir, well done.

 

[ValgeKotkas]

Looking forward to the Big 3, if it is what I think it is

Just for confirmation: Amplifier wires can be routed through the firewall, there's hole just behind the ventilation boxes on the passengers side that's covered with a rubber cap (at least on my 87 N/A there's room for at least 2 wires )

Very nice post, thank you!

 

[gurley0916]

Sticky material??

 

[RoadRaceMK3]

Looking forward to the Big 3, if it is what I think it is

Just for confirmation: Amplifier wires can be routed through the firewall, there's hole just behind the ventilation boxes on the passengers side that's covered with a rubber cap (at least on my 87 N/A there's room for at least 2 wires )

Very nice post, thank you!

Updated top with the routing information. And yes, the Big 3 is what you think it is. When we install everything in gurley0916's car I'll be doing a full write up with pictures for the Big 3. Should be done in 2 weeks at the latest.

Whats up with not using capacitors?

You basically hide the problem with capacitors and cause extra strain on the electrical system. Think about it for a second. The amp always needs power, and whatever “extra” power it needs will be sucked out of your capacitor in milliseconds. After you have discharged the capacitor due to heavy power draw, the capacitor will need to recharge.

How does it recharge? Well, the capacitor sits in between your battery and your amplifier. Once the capacitor is discharged, it will attempt to charge itself by drawing power from your battery. Then, when the amp needs power, the capacitor will supply current from the battery as well as any “extra” current it has saved up. Once its discharged, the cycle continues. No matter how high the rating, a capacitor will still hamper performance. This is because capacitors cannot supply the needed current for any extended duration of time. When your amplifier needs current, it will suck the capacitor dry in less than one second, leaving your capacitor to use your battery to charge up again. Once the capacitor is charged, that extra current can then be transferred onto the amp.

See where I’m going now? If a capacitor can only hold a charge for less than one second, while drawing substantial amounts of current from your battery in an attempt to charge back up while delaying power the amp, then what is the point? There is none. Capacitors are known in the car audio community as a marketing ploy to make people think they need something, when in reality, they really don’t. Take your money and invest it in a second battery if you have already done the things I listed in the first post.

 

[thedave925]

That is a very logical and valid explanation.

My only argument to keep the cap is that it takes some of the shock off the regulator of the alternator, by helping stabilize the draw.

Adding another battery would also stabilize the draw but obviously has much more amperage, and weight.

In both cases of a battery and and capacitor is still a load on the charging system whether or not its in use.

So could an ideal setup be an upgraded alternator with one of those small odyssey batteries for startup, isolated, and a high CCA rated battery for audio?

 

[Canuckrz]

Sticky material??

Oh hells ya. This info is gold :love:

 

[SupaMan]

a supra specific how to on the big 3 would be sick ive wanted to do the big 3 for awhile now.

and a list of HO alts that will fit and what modifications they need would be good too.

very good info tho.

 

[Rennat]

the mr2 alternator is 100amp... just need to swap pulleys.

1992 turbo mr2 with power steering... they cost the same as a replacement oem supra one...

and just by googleing "the big 3" for cars i came up with several guides on how to do it, and i think people should do it just to make sure the electrical system is all freshened up anyways... the newest wiring in any of these cars is going to be 17years old... unless they bought a brand new harness... which was still not made yesterday.

but this one thread has so much information is crazy!

 

[RoadRaceMK3]

Bumpage for stick!

 

[ValgeKotkas]

Do a bump with the Big 3
I'm already impatiently waiting!

 

[gurley0916]

Do a bump with the Big 3
I'm already impatiently waiting!

Im still waiting on my car so we can do it :sarcasm:

 

[ValgeKotkas]

Wait faster, pleeeeease :biglaugh:

 

[RoadRaceMK3]

Wait faster, pleeeeease :biglaugh:

We may confiscate our buddies 87 N/A here soon if he can't get that car! :icon_razz

 

[jmjecc]

Updated top with the routing information. And yes, the Big 3 is what you think it is. When we install everything in gurley0916's car I'll be doing a full write up with pictures for the Big 3. Should be done in 2 weeks at the latest.



You basically hide the problem with capacitors and cause extra strain on the electrical system. Think about it for a second. The amp always needs power, and whatever “extra” power it needs will be sucked out of your capacitor in milliseconds. After you have discharged the capacitor due to heavy power draw, the capacitor will need to recharge.

How does it recharge? Well, the capacitor sits in between your battery and your amplifier. Once the capacitor is discharged, it will attempt to charge itself by drawing power from your battery. Then, when the amp needs power, the capacitor will supply current from the battery as well as any “extra” current it has saved up. Once its discharged, the cycle continues. No matter how high the rating, a capacitor will still hamper performance. This is because capacitors cannot supply the needed current for any extended duration of time. When your amplifier needs current, it will suck the capacitor dry in less than one second, leaving your capacitor to use your battery to charge up again. Once the capacitor is charged, that extra current can then be transferred onto the amp.

The capacitor is just a buffer to make the drain of electricity balanced, however it is correct that it will not reduce the requirement of the alternator that is recovering the system, sure it can save your battery in a pinch, but it still does have to power itself. I do recommend a cap for high performance audio, however, it is important that you insure your alternator can keep up with the total discharge. all the cap does is keep those spike from directly hitting the battery. Furthermore, my 2 farad cap can keep my car running for up to five minutes, so it will hold more energy that is necessary for one hit, but realize, like previously mentioned, it will draw it's very much needed power from somewhere. -jmjecc

See where I’m going now? If a capacitor can only hold a charge for less than one second, while drawing substantial amounts of current from your battery in an attempt to charge back up while delaying power the amp, then what is the point? There is none. Capacitors are known in the car audio community as a marketing ploy to make people think they need something, when in reality, they really don’t. Take your money and invest it in a second battery if you have already done the things I listed in the first post.

 

[Clint]

This is very informative Ive owned many supras for over 6 years and I just learned something new! Great post and great thread!