I'm repairing a BHG. Do I need to retourque the head studs and when?

[rumptis]

Thanks.

Does it have to be ARP Moly or can you use other brands?

 

[CajunKenny]

.:BUMP:. ^^

I'd like to see what the answer is for this too because I can't find ARP Moly here locally.

 

[IJ.]

I've used Castrol LMM in the past with acceptable results
(I also use it as assembly lube as it's dirt cheap compared to tiny tubes)

 

[grimreaper]

I've used Castrol LMM in the past with acceptable results
(I also use it as assembly lube as it's dirt cheap compared to tiny tubes)

ky dosent have shit on assembly lube... although if they could only make some that has a "warm tingling sensation"

 

[supradjza80]

I was thinking of checking what my cars HG was torqued too. My head gasket was replaced by toyota during the last owners ownership (2004/2005). I was thinking of checking the torque value but was wondering what I should put it too (I hope they knew that they had to be tightened more than the TSRM says but have no idea if they did that). I believe it has a toyota HG and Toyota hardware. I was thinking 72-80 ft-lbs, does that sound about right?

 

[jdub]

70-75 ft/lbs...it's a crap shoot once the HG has been on for that long.

 

[Yblegal91t]

so your saying you need to remove coil packs, i/c pipe, etc. 5 times to continuously re-torque the head bolts. Somehow I think I got confused and I've been reading.

 

[jdub]

so your saying you need to remove coil packs, i/c pipe, etc. 5 times to continuously re-torque the head bolts. Somehow I think I got confused and I've been reading.

No...the 5 torque/loosening cycles applies to a new install. Not new hardware, but when the head is mated to the HG/block.

A re-torque is done after the engine has run...I wait for at least complete 5 heat-up/cool-down cycles. To re-torque all you do is just "crack" the bolts or stud nut counter clockwise, then torque back down a couple ft/lbs (5 max) more than what you used the 1st time.

 

[supradjza80]

70-75 ft/lbs...it's a crap shoot once the HG has been on for that long.

Ok that sounds good. I may or may not even do it. I just have heard that people have had there head bolts become so loose after time that they can turn them by hand (if not torqued to the right spec) and I want to double check the torque and try to prevent that.

 

[jdub]

Yep...seen that myself. If that's the case, it's usually too late to prevent a BHG.

 

[supradjza80]

Ill probably check them since it cant hurt anything...hopefully none will be lose

 

[buckshotglass]

No...the 5 torque/loosening cycles applies to a new install. Not new hardware, but when the head is mated to the HG/block.

This was my next question.

To re-torque all you do is just "crack" the bolts or stud nut counter clockwise, then torque back down a couple ft/lbs (5 max) more than what you used the 1st time.

I just spoke to Jay, so I think I know the answer, but to clarify, I will be cracking them one at a time, and going to final torque before moving on to the next? It can't be a good idea to loosen them all at once, even just a little, at this point.
And would you use the removal or the install sequence from the tsrm?

 

[jdub]

Install sequence.
Crack, then re-torque one at a time.

 

[buckshotglass]

Thank you sir. This should be stickier.

 

[berniek]

Nate:

My experience with retorquing ARP studs with an MHG was the same as yours. I have a 2.2 mm Cometic, and used the ARP lube, went up to 85 pound-feet in small increments. Checked about 100 miles later (3-5 heat cycles) starting on the exhaust side, and found nothing looser that at assembly time. Head and block surfaces were propery prepared.

Yet most others in Supramania and Supras@Supras.com (working again) have apparently found a torque reduction. Did you try breaking loose at least one of the nuts, noting the torque wrench arm position, and going back up to 85 to see if the torque wrench arm was further clockwise? I think I did that, but now almost two years ago, I don't quite recall.

Looking forward to your reply. Thanks.

BernieK
BernieK@technicaldevelop.com

'91T, non-targa, refreshed JDM, Walbro, Lex, 550cc ND injectors, 57 trim turbo at 17 PSI (at 3000 pipe), '98 wheels and engine mounts (strong!), Lipp, modified stock FPR, Treadstone IC, hardpipes, Cometic, ARP, Random Tech 3" single cat downpipe, HKS LET-16 exhaust, Exedy organic clutch (street use), Raptor BOV (recirculated), deflashed valve bowls, exhaust helicoils, tower strut.

Checked mine after 500 miles. Click, Click, Click, Click................ I guess it was good piece of mind :dunno:

 

[jdub]

Bernie - The required retorques I've seen are about 50/50 with studs....almost 100% with bolts. Of the ones where pre-load was set using the tighten/loosening cycles ARP recommends, zero actually required a retorque...did it anyway because there is no downside to doing it.

 

[queenskid926]

just to be sure, when using used arp bolts, used only once, still do a re-tourque after 5 heat cycles? any additional information for driving the car? i think i heard no boost for the 1rst 500miles or something like that?

 

[CajunKenny]

Yes, retorque after 5 heat cycles with both bolts and studs. Even once used ones.

It is best NOT to boost it during the those five heat cycles. Not really a matter of mileage.

After the retorque, pedal to the metal!

 

[Guyana00]

Thank you sir. This should be stickier.