I'm challenging you.............

mhopemk3

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Jul 13, 2005
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I am kind of on the same page as jetjock.. I had those lights show up on me before. I was driving down the road and flash..flash.. flash.. all 3 at the same time.. Man I thought my car was going to blow or something.. I know the feeling.. The 3 wire plug that connects to the alternator had some cracking and the wires were geting a little corroded.. I replaced the alternator with the plug and that ended up being the problem. It would only happen to me (it seemed) when the car got hot.. Just a thought..
 

MKIII VIXEN

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Feb 11, 2006
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mkhopemk3.........It's like you are reading my mind this morning. I got to thinking, this happens when the car is hot. I was getting on to post that and read your post. We are going to check that when I get the car home this evening.
Thanks
Vixen
 

jdub

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Feb 10, 2006
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I've kinda got the same problem, except all 3 lights stay on very dim...can't see them in daylight, only at night. Alternator and battery are good...good grounds and battery terminal connections too. Had a Toyota tech tell me about the diodes in the guage cluster I mentioned earlier, but haven't had the opportunity to pull it out to test. No point in pulling it unless it could be the cause.

Anybody (JJ?) got a suggestion? Might fix both problems...making me pull my hair out too.
 

jdub

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jetjock said:
jdub, exactly which lights are you referring to and what year is your car?

The same 3 as Suprahero/MKIII Vixen...battery, brake & tail light and the same year...'89 Turbo. Thought it might be a bad alternator...it tested good. New battery & terminals too.
 

jdub

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jetjock said:
When you say tailight are you refering to the light failure indicator? Again, the battery light is telling but I need to know for sure about the tailight to do some circuit analysis.

That is correct...the light failure indicator. The last time these 3 came on together, my alternator was dead. Replaced the alternator and the connector to the wiring harness. The alternator is charging the battery fine and all other indications for the charging system is normal.
 

sethron71

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Jul 19, 2005
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There are grounds all over. From the main harness to the chassis, plus your from battery to block. There should also be battery to chassis ground. The going around and wiggling wires may sound stupid but in a case like this if you are not an electronics expert it is about all you have to go with...lol HTH.

Seth
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Ok, standby. Unlike others I'm not leaning towards a grounding problem for several reasons.

I'm assuming the lights work normally during the lamp test ie; key on, engine off. I need to look at the other circuits but everything implies a problem with the charging system. The only way the battery light and the others will come on is if system voltage is low or polluted.

You should put a scope across the battery to see how pure the DC is. Or use a multimeter and set it to AC millivolts. What do you get for DC and AC across the battery at 2000 rpm? At idle?

Fwiw the alternator and regulator used in the Supra are somewhat unique compared to many vehicles. They require a slightly modified method of troubleshooting when done on the car.
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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One of the nice things about a good circuit analysis is the ability to use the car itself as a troubleshooting tool so that's what we'll do.

That your alternator works has no bearing on the indicator problem because the Type M regulator's regulation and warning lamp circuits are independent. That's why you may be charging OK but can still have a leaky warning light circuit. If that's the problem you'll need to replace the regulator. It's not hard to do but verify it first by pulling the charge fuse. Remove the 7.5 amp charge fuse *with the engine running* (removal of the fuse will not effect the charging system's performance) and see if the dimmed warning lights go out.

Also try unplugging the lamp sensor box to see if the dimmed indicators go completely out and be sure the parking brake light goes from bright to a little brighter when the brake is applied with the key on and *engine off.* All this will tell us where the leaky ground path is originating from.

The diodes you mentioned in the combo meter are for isolating one indicator from the other so that a valid ground from the light failure box doesn't illuminate the brake light and vice versa. It's quite possible for them to cause this problem but in addition to one or either diode being shorted something else would have to be supplying the ground path. We need to establish if it's the voltage regulator, light failure box, or handbrake circuit.

If any of that doesn't makes sense say so and I'll try and explain it better ;)
 

suprahero

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Aug 26, 2005
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For once I understand you JJ, but I think this pertains more to Jdub's problem. Our lights don't stay on dim. They only come on every now and again. I can't check her volts, because my multimeter is in my truck, which is in the shop. I didn't think I would be needing it so it's in one of my toolboxes locked up. Ours hasn't blinked in a couple of days, so it's not a real big problem, but I don't want it breaking down on her somewhere..................lol and Thanks alot for the help......................:bowdown:
 

suprahero

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Thank you sir. As always it has been a pleasure letting you try and solve MY problems. I'm glad you're one of the good guys. All that knowledge would be wasted if you wasn't willing to share it.........................lol
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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You're welcome SH. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

Without going into all the technical ooga-booga the 7.5 amp charge fuse supplies power to the combo meter and warning lights but *does not* provide power to the regulator. Contrary to popular belief the type M regulator in the Supra doesn't depend on the battery indicator's filament to work (as do many older cars) ie; if the lamp failed there would be no loss of charging system performance.

In fact you could yank the 7.5 amp charge fuse (or the lamp, same thing) out and drive around all day with a functioning charging system. You won't have warning light functions on the battery, lamp failure, or brake light indicators though. That's how you can tell if the fuse is blown without opening the hood: you won't get any warning lights.

This includes the parking brake indicator. It normally turns on (even with the parking brake off) for a lamp test when the key is on but the engine isn't running. If the fuse and circuit are OK it monitors parking brake position accurately only when the engine is running. Keep in mind it's also connected to the float switch in the master cylinder.
 

jdub

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Thank you very much JJ...it gives me a plan to act on. I was in Boston when I asked and now in Seattle...I'll take a look when I get home. Perhaps a dumb question, but I thought the voltage regulator was internal to the alternator...is that correct?

SH - I really wasn't trying to jack your thread...honestly, the problems sounded so similar that I thought a good explanation (like the one JJ provided) would help both of us. I apologize if it was a problem.

BTW JJ - How's the Ukraine this time of year :drink1:
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Hey, I know the feeling except I have to do more legs a day than you. How come you aren't down at the bar playing with the locals?

Yes, the regulator is internal but not too much so. You access it by removing the alternator's rear cover. It simply screws on. Might as well replace the brushes if you have to go in there. Try the three tests I mentioned first though so we can see just "who" is at fault.

I left Ukraine a few weeks ago. I'm elsewhere right now but I'll be going back soon. It's been hot in Odesa and Kyiv. Same in Chornobyl ;)
 

jdub

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jetjock said:
Hey, I know the feeling except I have to do more legs a day than you. How come you aren't down at the bar playing with the locals?


LOL...I was, but "timed" out. And hey, on my last trip I did 5 legs a day bouncing around CA, OR, NV and AZ...actually a nice change of pace vs the west coast to east coast routine.