IJ - SERIOUS question

brad92t

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Apr 25, 2006
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mtoxracerfss said:
Well i didnt change the pistons, i dont even think they came out. The new crankshaft was put in 3000 miles ago along with new rod bearings. My buddy said i should put new main bearings in as well,...having 140,000 on them and all. So i bought new rod and main bearings and had him throw them in this past weekend. He unbolted the engine, lifted it up and threw new bearings in it. Dont think the pistons were even taken out.


this scares me. look out rod knock.
:nono:
 

cartel1_950

supra is gone
Jan 30, 2006
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brad92t said:
quotes would be helpful to keep things at least understandable when hijacking a thread ;)

anyway, lots of people get a boner over royal purple.. personally i don't get it.. maybe it really is great amazing stuff, but so what? consistent oil changes (on time) with quality synthetic (valvoline, mobile 1, amsoil, royal purple, insert name here) is all that really matters.. if you want to pay extra for something, go for it, it's your car :)

haha sorry man my bad
 

mtoxracerfss

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Oct 8, 2005
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Why rod knock? Crankshaft has no fine scratches period. I took my fingernail to each part. I understand a lot about engines, but do not know very much about oils. Also, my buddy has 7 MKIII supras so I know he knows what he is doing when it comes to the rebuild and right way to do things....did i mention hes an airplane technician LOL. Anyways the question of oil came up because i had already bought the oil and didnt know about the break in process. I guess Im OK now. Thanks for all the responses guys!

Also, you dont "break in" bearings per se, but it does form to the high/low spots of the crank. The break in period refers to taking it easy on the bearings and not going to fast to high rpm's so that they adapt to only the high spots correct?
 

brad92t

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mtoxracerfss said:
Why rod knock?

i dunno.. honestly i could be on cloud 9 on this one.. rod knock scares me because i got it, and i am totally paranoid now that no matter what i do or how much i pay to have machine work done or how careful i am during assembly that somehow the smallest particle of dust is going to get in my motor and cause rod knock again in 1000 miles.

so just ignore me :D
 

figgie

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Mar 30, 2005
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mtoxracerfss said:
Why rod knock? Crankshaft has no fine scratches period. I took my fingernail to each part. I understand a lot about engines, but do not know very much about oils. Also, my buddy has 7 MKIII supras so I know he knows what he is doing when it comes to the rebuild and right way to do things....did i mention hes an airplane technician LOL. Anyways the question of oil came up because i had already bought the oil and didnt know about the break in process. I guess Im OK now. Thanks for all the responses guys!

Also, you dont "break in" bearings per se, but it does form to the high/low spots of the crank. The break in period refers to taking it easy on the bearings and not going to fast to high rpm's so that they adapt to only the high spots correct?

why Rod knock? Gee "throwing" in bearings, did you guys measure the clearances against the crank or any of the other things that need a very tight measurement to get right?

As for bearings.
no no no
bearings do not break in!! PERIOD

If the crank touches the bearing then the tolerance where not right to begin with. At no point should the crank EVER TOUCH the bearing, PERIOD! This is not debatable.
 

figgie

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cartel1_950 said:
what about royal purple synthetic?

umm that is probably one of the most slick oils out there. TERRIBLE for break in...

[record player of IJ.]

use straight 30W with no friction modifiers or fancy additives in order for the rings to seat properly

[/record player of IJ.]
 

mtoxracerfss

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Oct 8, 2005
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Do you know the intricacies and tolerances of a turbine engine? He does. He knows full well what to do and he measured and spec'd it out before buying bearings. I said "threw bearings in" because its easier to say then "I spec'd and measured the crank within thousandths of a millimeter, then proceeded to search out the bearing companies and specs of all the bearings on the market and how well they would do with the specs that we detailed out on paper, and the information we gathered from the crank.

"Gee lets see" thats easier to say.
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
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Feb 10, 2006
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mtoxracerfss said:
Do you know the intricacies and tolerances of a turbine engine? He does. He knows full well what to do and he measured and spec'd it out before buying bearings. I said "threw bearings in" because its easier to say then "I spec'd and measured the crank within thousandths of a millimeter, then proceeded to search out the bearing companies and specs of all the bearings on the market and how well they would do with the specs that we detailed out on paper, and the information we gathered from the crank.

"Gee lets see" thats easier to say.

LOL...this is a classic!

Mtoxracerfss - most of the guys were going on your 1st post..."rebuilt the bottom end". That usually means new rings at a minimum...you didn't tell us the pistons were never removed till post #17. So off we go on breaking in rings.

Also, choice of words...Figgie is a good guy. I see his point about "throwing bearings in"...it's really hard to decipher what's going on from the written word. I see your point too, but "installed per TRSM spec" might have been a better way to say it.

It's a classic case of mis-understanding ;)

Your bearings are fine on that oil...I wouldn't use a 50W oil except on a motor that was about wore out, way too heavy, but that's me. For your motor a 5W or 10W-30 syn would flow much better and actually protect your new bearings quite well.

BTW...I fly jets for a living. Some of the guys that work on them scare me!
 
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figgie

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Mar 30, 2005
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mtoxracerfss said:
Do you know the intricacies and tolerances of a turbine engine? He does. He knows full well what to do and he measured and spec'd it out before buying bearings. I said "threw bearings in" because its easier to say then "I spec'd and measured the crank within thousandths of a millimeter, then proceeded to search out the bearing companies and specs of all the bearings on the market and how well they would do with the specs that we detailed out on paper, and the information we gathered from the crank.

"Gee lets see" thats easier to say.

dude I was working on GE turbo fans in 92 and more specifically the GE-F101 series engines. So you made an absolute terrible assumption. And working on engines don't mean anything as in the Military and in the civilain world the jet mechanics don't replace the turbine section. That is left to depot maintanance, but nice try though. ;) And if he is in the military using thier equipment to spec out a motor. I hope for his sake and rank that he does not get caught.

As for the bearing, has ZERO to do with what is easier. We need facts not statments that start with "throw things in". That is never a good statement to use when dealing with a motor build. that like saying bomb on an aircraft. ;) Both will get you in trouble. hehe
 

supra90turbo

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Mar 30, 2005
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mtoxracerfss said:
Do you know the intricacies and tolerances of a turbine engine?
figgie said:
I was working on GE turbo fans in 92 and more specifically the GE-F101 series engines. So I am well aware of how turbo fans work and are put together.

pwnt.

also, LOL @ the "record player" comment.
 

cartel1_950

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Jan 30, 2006
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figgie said:
umm that is probably one of the most slick oils out there. TERRIBLE for break in...

[record player of IJ.]

use straight 30W with no friction modifiers or fancy additives in order for the rings to seat properly

[/record player of IJ.]

sorry man i posted my own question in the thread my engine is now where near breaking in it's got 227xxxkm on her
 

mtoxracerfss

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That was an assumption that I just threw bearings in. Either way I understand that i should have stated that im just "breaking in" bearings...even though you dont really break them in per se.

I understand im OK now with my oil. thanks for the fast responses.

So on a 150,000 mile engine, with new bottom end, what weight oil should i use? I just went with thicker oil because i want to have better protection of the bearings. Should i use thinner oil? I understand engines, but oil i do not.
 

figgie

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mtoxracerfss said:
That was an assumption that I just threw bearings in. Either way I understand that i should have stated that im just "breaking in" bearings...even though you dont really break them in per se.

I understand im OK now with my oil. thanks for the fast responses.

So on a 150,000 mile engine, with new bottom end, what weight oil should i use? I just went with thicker oil because i want to have better protection of the bearings. Should i use thinner oil? I understand engines, but oil i do not.

negative

if the clearances are to what toyota states

use what toyota recommends in the 7mge/gte. 10w-30. Any thicker will actually cause cold start wear.
 

tte

Breaking In - in progress
Mar 30, 2005
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I am sure there is alot of qualified people out there who knows stuff abut cars.
But i think the best people who know alot about the supra come on SM. Members here have alot of experience with the supra and most of all are supra fanatics.I do not think that you will be able find a much better source of information on the supra anywhere else.

Cheers,
Roy