I WILL PAY $10+ for the correct diagnosis of my electrical issue. VIDEO/PICS

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
192
0
16
Meridian, ID
Hey All,

So I did an LED swap on my cluster, climate control, hazard, Fog, defrost, TEMS, and replaced the small bulbs with LED bulbs. I dont remember exaclty how long ago but the (BATTERY, DEAD LIGHT, & E-BRAKE) indicators come on, all together... they will randomly blink on and off during which time the Voltage gauge will jump up close to 18v. I removed most all accessory wires/lighting that I had in the car to make sure nothing else was really affecting it.

The gauges now when turned on are VERY DIM along with the other accessory lights, minus (key ring, window switches). I randomly noticed that the W-G white green wire when touched to a ground, EVERYTHING would come back on and bright like they should... so I spliced a wire just to get them working temporarily. I want to fix the issue permanently..


So.... anybody that can correctly diagnose/help me through fixing the issue gets $10 bucks or more depending on the difficulty...

Things to point out....
1. Yes I checked all fuses
2. The dome interior lights will NOT work by simply pushing them to ON position but WILL come on when the door is opened.
3. Since the issue started i can NOT use the dimmer to adjust the gauges/accessory lighting when the W-G is grounded.
4. I CAN adjust the dimmer with the W-G NOT grounded but at the same time the lights are all VERY DIM. (as explained in the video)

For anybody willing to help me out questions, PM's, and Texts are welcome 541-805-52 zero one.



Thanks
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
Have you checked the dimmer? Maybe the dimmer is going bad. Here's the wiring diagram. All you're doing when you touch the white-green to ground is eliminating the dimmer (AKA rheostat). If it works fine with the white-green on ground then I would bet your rheostat has gone bad. It's easy to test with a multimeter. :)

Main_062.gif
 

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
192
0
16
Meridian, ID
I dont have a tester but I did find a pre 86.5 in the junkyard today. i dont remember if they have the same Rheostat in them.. I would love if it was just that easy... but if you have any more ideas or anyone else. I'm open to options. of course the first solution that was posted that works gets the dough.
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
2,972
0
36
Phoenix
www.google.com
Lol I don't know if I speak for anyone else but I don't want your money, we are here to help free of charge. The only possible problems (for your dim instrument lights) are bad wiring or connections to/from the rheostat or a bad rheostat. Your intermittent charging issue is another story though.
 

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
192
0
16
Meridian, ID
suprarx7nut;1816715 said:
Have you checked the dimmer? Maybe the dimmer is going bad. Here's the wiring diagram. All you're doing when you touch the white-green to ground is eliminating the dimmer (AKA rheostat). If it works fine with the white-green on ground then I would bet your rheostat has gone bad. It's easy to test with a multimeter. :)

Main_062.gif

from what i'm seeing with the wiring diagram, looks like it connects also through the "tail" which if i'm not mistaken could be a reason the tail indicator will flash on and off.
 

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
192
0
16
Meridian, ID
CyFi6;1816721 said:
Lol I don't know if I speak for anyone else but I don't want your money, we are here to help free of charge. The only possible problems (for your dim instrument lights) are bad wiring or connections to/from the rheostat or a bad rheostat. Your intermittent charging issue is another story though.

I appreciate that. and POOP to the charging issue... I just figured I could get some quicker more efforted help with throwing a little cash out there. Truely SM is a lot better than SF for REAL help on issues without the great majority of BS.


Edit: Hopefully the Rheostat is the issue and i'm not just getting my hopes up on it being so easy.
 

destrux

Active Member
May 19, 2010
1,183
10
38
PA
Has the charging light been on since before the LED swap? Has it been on ever since the 1JZ swap? Is it a Soarer 1JZ? (If all 3 answers are yes, I know how to fix the charging system problem, PM me)
 

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
192
0
16
Meridian, ID
destrux;1816768 said:
Has the charging light been on since before the LED swap? Has it been on ever since the 1JZ swap? Is it a Soarer 1JZ? (If all 3 answers are yes, I know how to fix the charging system problem, PM me)

lol Dang well, wish i could say YES but its actually No to all 3... it started a while after the LED swap so that answers no to since the swap, and its a supra 1j.

A WHOLE ten dollars? (not being a dick, will post back with diagnosis)

haha well if all it really was, was some easy answer somebody knew then for a forum where most info/help is free i think thats a pretty easy $10. :)
 

SRZMK3

New Member
get a new alternator with the voltage at 18 volts thats a sign that you have a bad voltage regulator in the alternator yes they go out often ive had to replace my alt like 5 times now because of bad voltage regulators must be all the stuff i run at the same time, if the lights turn on when you ground that wire check the dash light dimmer rheostat for correct function.
 

jdmfreak

PACNW
Oct 8, 2010
2,232
0
0
north clark co. WA.
Might be a silly question but thought I would ask... u said that the dash lights were very dim before grounding the white wire ... did u try the dimmer switch ??? I wired my aftermarket gauges wrong once an as I dimmed my dash lights the other(New ) gauges got brighter and visa versa

Sent from my C771
 

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
192
0
16
Meridian, ID
jdmfreak;1816919 said:
Might be a silly question but thought I would ask... u said that the dash lights were very dim before grounding the white wire ... did u try the dimmer switch ??? I wired my aftermarket gauges wrong once an as I dimmed my dash lights the other(New ) gauges got brighter and visa versa

Sent from my C771

A few guys on the previous page suggested that so I'm gonna see if the soup in the junkyard today has a rheostat dimmer.
 

bluebullet89

Member
Oct 16, 2008
192
0
16
Meridian, ID
The verdict is in.

CiFy6 was the first to correctly diagnose the issue. Found a Rheostat in the junkyard today while replacing my wifes camry hood (found one same color LUCKY).

Replaced the Rheostat and PRESTO. Dimmer, Gauges, Climate Control all work great now.

I guess the only remaining issue is my Dome lights when clicked on dont come on but when door is open they work fine.



Thanks to everyone for the input/suggestions... I'm really starting to think I should just read through the WHOLE TSRM like a book.
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
2,972
0
36
Phoenix
www.google.com
Glad you got it fixed! Did you fix the charging issue? I suspect that is what caused the rheostat to burn out to begin with, luckily that's all that happened, electronics don't like high voltages. As far as the dome lights, pull the cover off and give each of the rivets a good hit with a punch/hammer, might be a good idea to remove the unit from the roof first and do it on the bench, but those contacts tend to vibrate and come loose over time.