I wanna do a push button start

Athena

Rawr
Jun 22, 2009
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Raleigh, NC
Very true and a valid point, one could say it is excessive to say the least. However, one could ask why you would want to swap engines to a 2jz or a V8? you could view that as excessive as well. There's no limit to the creativity one can put in your car (other than the obvious cash issue) If the dude wants to start his car with the push of a button, I may not agree with it as my own style, but I'll respect his.

Christopher
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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jetjock;1522337 said:
A small price to pay to look like a jerk ;)

There are cheaper systems out there but you could modify a $100 print lock for building doors or one of those $40 print remotes for garage doors to do the same thing...
Same can be done without spending a cent ;)

Athena;1522339 said:
Very true and a valid point, one could say it is excessive to say the least. However, one could ask why you would want to swap engines to a 2jz or a V8? you could view that as excessive as well. There's no limit to the creativity one can put in your car (other than the obvious cash issue) If the dude wants to start his car with the push of a button, I may not agree with it as my own style, but I'll respect his.

Christopher

unique_by_krash.jpg
 

iwannadie

New Member
Jul 28, 2006
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gilbert, az
reincaster;1522314 said:
Sorry, my bike is from 1981. The point us that the alarm will sous if you fall off, in case you lose control at NIGHT, and hope fully someone will be able to fin you before it's too late.

That's what I was thinking, just because you crash a bike doesn't mean people are gonna notice or come running. Having an alarm sound is a great idea.
 

T701jz

3M ENGINEER - R.&.D
Jul 23, 2005
657
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Santa Clarita Ca.
Just do what you want to do. I've already bypassed the oem alarm/starter system with an Allen-Bradley push button and relay. I'm in the process of removing the ignition key system and integrading the after market alarm to Allen -Bradley relay to control the fuel pump power supply and using the hand brake to power up acc/on. lol...Did I just gave away my security system?....Not realllllly.
 

A. Jay

Search.
Jun 3, 2009
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Bay Area, CA
OP: I don't like the idea because of the above reasons, especially this one:
IJ.;1521642 said:
Makes a lot of sense to me...... <sarc>

reach for the key turn it, stop before you turn it all the way then press a button.... :nono:

Only way I'd consider it is with keyless entry/start like a modern car.
... but if you must, here's an example:
p1523136_1.jpg

(http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51792)

Edit: T701jz have you seen your activity percentage?

omg IJ, Activity: 141603.7% :aigo::biglaugh:
 

Athena

Rawr
Jun 22, 2009
154
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Raleigh, NC
I remember when he did that, my favorite part was the "JET FIGHTER SWITCH" he installed.
The key is still in the picture though, for this to work, the key can't be in the plan.

Christopher
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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ValgeKotkas;1523492 said:
But using the push to get the starter around and get some oil flowing through the engine before start-up?

Could be done by installing an normally closed momentary button between the 12v+ and the ECU..... still think it's stupid and a waste of time and effort....
 
Why push button start, thought I should chime in with why I did it & have been using the system for about 11 years on the Supra without any problems.

Far from being "stupid" it actually simplified a number of systems into one unit.


1) Insurance con-panies insist on them here so, you must install one. This is yet another box under the dash tapping into the ignition switch to stop it from working. So your switch is just sending power to.....another switch. Hmm.

2) Remote starting. Most alarm systems do this now & it's pretty handy, particularly when the miserable country you live in struggles to reach any double figure temperatures for a vast part of the year. Yet ANOTHER box tapping into your already double switch ignition & a whole bunch of additional wires. If a turbo timer was not built into my alarm there would also be ANOTHER module to switch the ignition for that too!!

3) I don't need my key for the doors which unlock remotely so, what if I could do away with the thing all together & combine the entire remote start, immobiliser & ignition key into ONE simple module with half the wires, ONE set of switches to go wrong & cut down on all the stuff on my key ring.

4) Security - there are NO power cables to be found where the ignition switch was so, nothing to tamper with or "hot wire"


The system I designed for the current rebuild is incredibly simple, tiny & incorporates all the above into ONE unit, ONE set of switching contacts (for each circuit ACC/Power/Start) & interfaces/deals with the all systems (starting, immobilising & remote starting) in One module.

It's also effectively gives the car ECU control over cranking duration which makes the car start really well every time, one touch of the button - no holding it in while engine cranks - just like a modern system. Acc comes on automatically when transponders read & ignition can be turned on separately as well as automatically powering up if you just hit start.

Seeming as I had to make up something to allow use of my cruise control with an after market steering wheel, it seemed obvious to also plonk the car starting/power on there too.

It's a clean, easy to use, obvious system. I didn't have to drill any holes in the dashboard for switches.


Boils down to individual requirements at the end of the day. I despise anything Apple make & would have every Ipod burned for the preservation of good quality music however, millions love them.

As for this post, there is a page on my site answering the original question about which wire to cut. HERE You cut the black/white wire to disable the starter position on the stock switch - although removing the pin from the connector is preferable & insulating it as then, things can be returned to stock if you want to.
 
Nope, no key at all, I don't even carry one. Just a transponder & alarm commander. Locking is all remote & trunks electronically triggered via remote or button.

The transponder just gets put into a dock where ignition key was, it's read by the ECU which then turns on the ACC position & livens up the steering wheel controls. If remote start is triggered, putting the transponder in automatically switches to run & you can drive away.

The steering wheel only lights in the options possible so, when the cars running only the off button will light. If you hit power the off & start options light, hitting just start automatically turns on the ignition & then cranks the engine.

The car is safety interlocked so, remote or button start won't function if the cars in gear.

To stop the car you either hit off or just pull the transponder out & all shuts down automatically.


I have automatic wipers, rear demist, tail & headlights running which are also linked into the system so they only operate when the actual cars running instead of just coming on with the ignition, this helps reduce starting current.

Interestingly I think the Syvecs (Solaris) stand alone has some push button starting option in built so, some of this may even be simplified again.


On the Rfid systems, I saw some expensive systems mentioned above, if you hunt the net a bit there are some of the well speced, although unbranded, alarm systems which have this built into them now at really affordable prices which gives you the walk up & walk away central locking. I'm sure these could also be hacked to switch ignition.

The only thing that worries me with relying on just proximity based devices is if the things decided to shut down suddenly for whatever reason, turning off your ignition. This was one thing that worried me when I first designed the system I made so, I put a fail safe switch into the transponder dock which latches the system to disarmed/powered up. This means the transponder has to be physically removed to turn the system back to secure & means the transponder only needs to be interrogated once.


The actual ECU for the system talks directly to the alarm ECU & sends out low current signals to the power relay switching side of the alarm system. This means there is only one bank of high current relays in the ignition system controlled by all systems. this keeps it really simple from a reliability point of view & the dual power lines of the Supra are kept standard, all fed from where they should be almost as if the stock ignition switch was still there.


The only thing that may bother some people is you loose the steering lock as that's physically moved by a cam on the end of the key cylinder - this has to be bolted off. This installation is all no damage so, everything can be restored if needs be or, if for instance, going into the spray shop, I can reinstate the stock ignition stuff in minutes.
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Supradupra.com;1523979 said:
Nope, no key at all, I don't even carry one. Just a transponder & alarm commander. Locking is all remote & trunks electronically triggered via remote or button.

The transponder just gets put into a dock where ignition key was, it's read by the ECU which then turns on the ACC position & livens up the steering wheel controls. If remote start is triggered, putting the transponder in automatically switches to run & you can drive away.

The steering wheel only lights in the options possible so, when the cars running only the off button will light. If you hit power the off & start options light, hitting just start automatically turns on the ignition & then cranks the engine.

The car is safety interlocked so, remote or button start won't function if the cars in gear.

To stop the car you either hit off or just pull the transponder out & all shuts down automatically.


I have automatic wipers, rear demist, tail & headlights running which are also linked into the system so they only operate when the actual cars running instead of just coming on with the ignition, this helps reduce starting current.

Interestingly I think the Syvecs (Solaris) stand alone has some push button starting option in built so, some of this may even be simplified again.


On the Rfid systems, I saw some expensive systems mentioned above, if you hunt the net a bit there are some of the well speced, although unbranded, alarm systems which have this built into them now at really affordable prices which gives you the walk up & walk away central locking. I'm sure these could also be hacked to switch ignition.

The only thing that worries me with relying on just proximity based devices is if the things decided to shut down suddenly for whatever reason, turning off your ignition. This was one thing that worried me when I first designed the system I made so, I put a fail safe switch into the transponder dock which latches the system to disarmed/powered up. This means the transponder has to be physically removed to turn the system back to secure & means the transponder only needs to be interrogated once.


The actual ECU for the system talks directly to the alarm ECU & sends out low current signals to the power relay switching side of the alarm system. This means there is only one bank of high current relays in the ignition system controlled by all systems. this keeps it really simple from a reliability point of view & the dual power lines of the Supra are kept standard, all fed from where they should be almost as if the stock ignition switch was still there.


The only thing that may bother some people is you loose the steering lock as that's physically moved by a cam on the end of the key cylinder - this has to be bolted off. This installation is all no damage so, everything can be restored if needs be or, if for instance, going into the spray shop, I can reinstate the stock ignition stuff in minutes.

All which goes back to my first post , Key+button = stupid/lame/gay/wannabe, you have no need for the key so = cool ;)
 

3rdgen Guy

New Member
Feb 12, 2008
29
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0
Queens NyC
I dont know much about ignition systems, however, I think it would be great if you could set it up so the key cannot turn the motor. Then hide a push start button somewhere in the car, almost like using a kill switch for security reasons.