I think my car will have code 52 forever!

[boro drift]

Alright, so I did the rewire on my knock sensors with 20awg 50ohm coax, and it helped a little bit. So, I decided to replace the sensors. While I was replacing them, I checked my rewire and it checked out fine, no shorts between the shielding and core, and good continuity.

So I get it all back together today and fire up the car and let it warm up. Then I give it a couple small revs, no code. I give it a couple of 5000rpm revs and BAM! Code 52.

I came home and once again hit the search. I find the link to the rewire instructions and the only thing I didn't do the same is I didn't replace the connecters and I have about 3/4 of an inch of the original wire left that I soldered to. Same with the ecu side.

Could this be the reason I'm still throwing code 52? Sometimes you will get the cel shifting into second, just taking off. Other times I have driven the car 100 miles with no cel.

I could really use some good info and advice about now. Supramania experts, what do you think? Thanks, A.J.

 

[WhtMa71]

That could be it. Did you ground the shielding? If so on both sides or just one end?

 

[viper92086]

my car does the same thing... i even bought the new connectors. i also tried different coax wires and grounding only 1 side then the other.. i finally left it grounded near the ecu. so i have no idea what im gonna do now lol good luck, post up your fix

 

[boro drift]

That could be it. Did you ground the shielding? If so on both sides or just one end?

It's grounded on the ecu side only.

 

[dumbo]

Not sure what write you guys are following.

IIRC I used Monster Cable, COAX 75ohms/foot, old connector but I took it apart and soldered my cable write to the connector. Used 18gauge IIRC and connected it to the sheild on both ends, grounded one on the body by the ECU, and other on the fuse block(think its also connected to the engine ground)

Never saw the code again.

I tried to find the scrap from the peice I used, but it must of been thrown out. But coax 75ohms sounds right.

I would soldner all connections.

 

[shaeff]

The new connectors are cheap. Buy them. I've always had great luck with RG-58 coax, but there are better options out there.

Ground ONLY on the ECU side. Common electrical practice dictates that ground loops are bad. Also, make sure that the rubber o-rings are still on the knock sensors. They make the connection more water-tight, and make the connector fit snugly against the KS.

 

[viper92086]

btw where are you guys grounding the wire? i had mine grounded on a bolt holding the dash in, but i just grounded it to the ecu screw, where the latch for the glove box is mounted. i haven't really gotten a chance to test it yet

 

[dumbo]

I grounded mine by the ECU, the "frame" is about the closest description I can think of, and the side of the fuse box under the hood. shaeff, I hear yah, but I didn't know about that when I re-wired it, so if it aint broke don't fix it

Here a pic of the wire I used, I know it's useless but it's all I got.

 

[viper92086]

i just grounded mine to the sensor ground off the ecu.. we'll see how that works for me.. i never thought of using that ground

 

[boro drift]

The new connectors are cheap. Buy them.

I'll try that next, do you have a part # for the connectors? Thanks for the input Shaeff!


edit- found it, 82219-89103.

 

[mk3supraoz]

Easy fix...just buy the kit from SHAEFF, and no more code 52.

I installed his kit this weekend, rode her hard and not more code.

Now i could finally get me tune, setting up a date tomorrow:naughty::naughty:

 

[suprahero]

I'm willling to try anything on my wife's car. I've tried everything that has been suggested but nothing seems to work. This code 52 has cost me many sleepless nights.

 

[shaeff]

^ Have you swapped that KS to the proper location, Jay?

 

[viper92086]

sorry for stealing your thread, but do we have any electrical gurus here? i'm thinking maybe i am getting interfernce throught my whole car. i did notice when i connected my AEM wideband i could not connect to my shared power that i've been using for the rest of my greddy guages or else i would have noise coming thru my speakers. my 3 other guages and my EBC get power from the cigarette lighter circuit(i have no more cigarette lighter). all the guages and ebc are then grounded to a dash to chasis bolt on the passenger glove box side. this is also where i initially had my KS hooked up. To solve my AEM guage noise issue i had to run a dedicated line straight from the battery and use a relay. it was then grounded on a seperate chasis bolt away from the other electronics. could it be possible i am getting electrical noise that is setting off my KS code?

i have since connected my KS sheilding to the sensor ground output from the ECU and i had the code pop once, but it hasn't returned after i reset it today. i was thinking, maybe my car just needs to be regrounded to reduce this electrical noise. (right now i have a 4guage wire going to the block and a 4guage directly to the chasis. and that is it for grounds that i know of

 

[mkiii222]

And I thought I was going mad.

I've got mine set up with solid core RG58 50ohm coax with the shielding grounded at the ECU. I actually soldered both ends (at the plug, not onto existing wire) and it still throws a 52 every now and again. It's a lot less frequent than it used to be, but still happens.

Normally I can reach under and unplug/replug the front one and it's good for a while, but sometimes it's the rear one which is a PITA to get to (even with the back of the plug shaved to fit by the started).

I'm at the point where I'm going to order new plugs(thx for the part # btw) next time I have to order anything else from Toyota and I'm going to run to Ace to try and match up the o-ring on the end of the KS. If that doesn't fix it then it's time for new sensors as I refuse to believe that this many of us have bad ECUs.

ed: Just checked Champion and the plugs run $9.29 each. So less than $25 shipped or if you have a local dealer with good prices.

 

[isnms]

I've got mine set up with solid core ...

I would use stranded core. Better flexibility.

 

[mkiii222]

I would use stranded core. Better flexibility.

Much better flex, but we do what we have to sometimes. The solid core was free/available at the time I decided to rewire everything and at least flexible enough to route it neatly. The intake manifold was off and I didn't have a spare car to run to the store in, so I ended up with solid core. It's already done and I'm not changing it now.

If anyone is getting ready to do this, you should use stranded core wire. Most home cable/satellite wire is solid core. I don't endorse solid core, I just did it because I was too lazy to double check that I had it ahead of time.

 

[viper92086]

And I thought I was going mad.

I've got mine set up with solid core RG58 50ohm coax with the shielding grounded at the ECU. I actually soldered both ends (at the plug, not onto existing wire) and it still throws a 52 every now and again. It's a lot less frequent than it used to be, but still happens.

Normally I can reach under and unplug/replug the front one and it's good for a while, but sometimes it's the rear one which is a PITA to get to (even with the back of the plug shaved to fit by the started).

I'm at the point where I'm going to order new plugs(thx for the part # btw) next time I have to order anything else from Toyota and I'm going to run to Ace to try and match up the o-ring on the end of the KS. If that doesn't fix it then it's time for new sensors as I refuse to believe that this many of us have bad ECUs.

ed: Just checked Champion and the plugs run $9.29 each. So less than $25 shipped or if you have a local dealer with good prices.

crap man u have the same problem as me lol, except i bought the new plugs and already tried the soldering directly onto the terminals. i even bought some digital audio coax and tried that but ended up going back to the thinet since it was somewhat better. i'm releived to hear im not the only person lol

 

[mkiii222]

crap man u have the same problem as me lol, except i bought the new plugs and already tried the soldering directly onto the terminals. i even bought some digital audio coax and tried that but ended up going back to the thinet since it was somewhat better. i'm releived to hear im not the only person lol

If the plugs didn't work for you then all that's left is the KS. Maybe the o-ring, but probably the KS.

I was thinking it doesn't seat properly and over time wiggles its way loose. In mine I have to play with the plugs to get it to go away, just resetting the code always brings back a 52. Oh well, at least now I can go weeks without a 52 instead of hours.

 

[Gunnar]

Took me swapping between two sets of used knock sensors to finaly get a good combination of working ones. A lot of the used ones being sold have one broken one in them.