I think I need a new radiator.

[Adjuster]

CSF fully welded aluminum ones seem to be a pretty good value for the money.

I have a fluidyne, and they fit with the stock brackets and shroud for the fan etc.

If I had it to do over again, I might buy one of the "off" brands, still fully welded aluminum, but with dual rows of tubes, in a thicker radiator. (The Fluidyne is only a single row cooler, but I have had no problems with overheating at all, but then again, I have a few coolers and thermal coatings..)

Going too big on a raditor that still fits in the stock location is not possible in my view. (As the PWR, Koyo and dual row CSF and others all fit, but are larger than stock.)

 

[Who]

Thank you for the thought.

I'm going to buy an all-aluminum one; I was looking at 935motorsports' site and saw they have two that basically look the same and about same price, a Haste and a CSF? Price looked good, never heard of either though. I called them credit card in hand to ask what's a better stock replacement, left a message, no call-back. I'm hoping it's because it was New Year's Eve...

If your willing to wait 30 days + for delivery go ahead and order form 935moto. Speaking from personal experience and still waiting.

 

[CyFi6]

Might want to make sure you dont have a BHG before just replacing the radiator only to have the same thing happen again

 

[Trnsprtr]

Got the car back to running normal today. I bought a Haste radiator from 935motorsports, looks nice - pretty sure it won't ever have any problems with heat.

Once that was done I still had the stuck at 3500-4000 RPM on startup issue. Originally it was looking like a problem with the ECU because I had no voltage on the IDL pin but it wasn't that. Wiring between the TPS and the ECU was all good so I tried another TPS - same problem. I ended up taking the throttle body off and doing some adjustments on the linkage as well as making sure the TPS was adjusted perfect. I also adjusted the accelerator cable to take the slop out of it. Put it all back together and now I had my voltage on the IDL pin at the ECU.

So best guess is that the TPS got out of adjustment, the car went into some sort of failsafe mode because it was missing the IDL signal, the air/fuel mixture was jacked up causing it to run hot and the old weak radiator went kaboom.

OR because now the throttle response is better than its ever been, the headgasket did blow* because everybody knows the car always run the best its ever run right before the big bang. *Nothing actually blew on the engine, it's fine.

 

[Doward]

Pics and details on the Haste installation?

 

[TheOneOnlyDrone]

Might want to make sure you dont have a BHG before just replacing the radiator only to have the same thing happen again

Yep. I had this same exact thing happen. Check to make sure you don't have a BHG. I ended up getting a KOYO aluminum radiator after that happened to me and turns out that the problem was BHG. The new radiator never actually messed up but did find out that it was because of BHG.