I pray to god its not
- Thread starter NTRA08
- Start date
Nick M;1318437 said:
A smidgen, nick, pinch.:biglaugh: It moves down about one notch but no more than that.
Is anything missing from the cooling system? Fan shroud? Undertray? Turbo coolant lines / bypass? Have you switched to electric fans?
Ambient temps?
What ratio of water : antifreeze are you running?
Ambient temps?
What ratio of water : antifreeze are you running?
GrimJack;1318446 said:
No undertray. The car didn't have one when I bought it. Bypass on the turbo coolant line. I have a t70 on the car. I used to have electric fans. I went back to all stock and new.
Edit: and I use 50/50 coolant.
And put the hole at 12 o' clock 
I dunno though. Running without a T stat should have purged any air and with it in the turbo bypass should have done the same thing.
Coolant expelled out the expansion tank? If not how much does it rise over the cold level? Hoses feel rock hard or look ballooned? Does the gage creep or spike?
Lower temp sans thermostat shows reserve capacity which implies a healthy cooling system. How healthy we don't know since you didn't say how much lower. Temp drop with heater use implies the water pump is also OK. So far it's not looking good...
I dunno though. Running without a T stat should have purged any air and with it in the turbo bypass should have done the same thing.
Coolant expelled out the expansion tank? If not how much does it rise over the cold level? Hoses feel rock hard or look ballooned? Does the gage creep or spike?
Lower temp sans thermostat shows reserve capacity which implies a healthy cooling system. How healthy we don't know since you didn't say how much lower. Temp drop with heater use implies the water pump is also OK. So far it's not looking good...
jetjock;1318485 said:And put the hole at 12 o' clock
I dunno though. Running without a T stat should have purged any air and with it in the turbo bypass should have done the same thing.
Coolant expelled out the expansion tank? If not how much does it rise over the cold level? Hoses feel rock hard or look ballooned? Does the gage creep or spike?
Lower temp sans thermostat shows reserve capacity which implies a healthy cooling system. How healthy we don't know since you didn't say how much lower. Temp drop with heater use implies the water pump is also OK. So far it's not looking good...
I can recall one time the coolant expelled out the tank. Hoses are ballooned. And the gauge creeps up. The gauge is in between the cold and normal with the thermostat out. When I had my electric fans one fan went out and the car would start to get hot. So I would turn on the heater. That would cool it down alot. But it doesn't work like that since I went to the clutch fan.
tissimo;1318488 said:
But there isn't any fluids where they shouldn't be. And it doesn't get hot anymore after I release the cap. I would say that me relieving the pressure in the cooling system allows the thermostat to open. Cooling the motor. I'm going to remove the jiggle valve like jdub said and see what happens.
If you're building up that much pressure (and having to release it) you're getting combustion gases injected into the coolant system via the cylinders. If your leave your radiator cap open and start the car you'll probably see an endless stream of small bubbles in the coolant.
MHGs dont blow in the same way as stock gaskets. They simply break the seal and leak instead of deforming and causing fluid mixtures.
MHGs dont blow in the same way as stock gaskets. They simply break the seal and leak instead of deforming and causing fluid mixtures.
Hmmm, your reserve isn't as good as it should be with a new rad. Do you feel any cold spots on it? Is there at least a 40 degree drop across the top and bottom hoses? Since the heater doesn't bring temp down like it used to the water pump impeller may be corroded or the belt slipping. That's reaching though. At this point I'm inclined to agree with tissimo. Time for a block test...
jetjock;1318511 said:
No cold spots. And i never really checked the hoses for temp change. Okay time for a block test.
Was this a new or used fan clutch?
Are you sure it's a GTE clutch with a 10 blade fan?
Is the fan shroud in place and in good condition?
Does the fan make a howling noise for 30-45 sec after the car is started, then quiet down?
Unfortunately, I'm starting to think the same as tissimo and JJ
Are you sure it's a GTE clutch with a 10 blade fan?
Is the fan shroud in place and in good condition?
Does the fan make a howling noise for 30-45 sec after the car is started, then quiet down?
Unfortunately, I'm starting to think the same as tissimo and JJ
What's worrisome is the lower temp sans t-stat implies the system ought to handle a typical heat load but can't. His reserve isn't a good as I usually see but it should be enough for all but extreme operation in a very hot ambient. Not a good sign.
OP: It's best to do a test at this point even though overheating alone will cause pressurization up to the cap's rating. Or try looking for bubbles like he said. Or drain some coolant into a glass and hold it up to the light. Usually obvious if there's gas entrained in it...
OP: It's best to do a test at this point even though overheating alone will cause pressurization up to the cap's rating. Or try looking for bubbles like he said. Or drain some coolant into a glass and hold it up to the light. Usually obvious if there's gas entrained in it...
Just started the car. No bubbles in the coolant. The whole rad assembly is new. fan, clutch, shroud, rad, t-stat. I went for a drive too. It didn't get over normal temperature. But when the car warms up I get a metallic grinding noise by the water pump. But not when the car is cold.
Does your fan cut on? This happened to my civic, it would overheat so i put a new thermostat in it and it still overheated so i took it out and it ran cool. Turned out my fan switch took a shit so i wired up a switch directly to the radiator fan and installed the new thermostat and it ran at normal temp
