So Ive had my car on the back burner for a while, keeping it maintained and running but not really worrying much about upgrades simply driving it once and a while. I blew my turbo, it was a used SP67GT that I had rebuilt, 3 times. The last two times were under warrenty but once it went again I decided it was a lost cause and bought myself a brand new Borg Warner S366 custom from the shop who does all my tuning for me. This turbo is beautiful, it spools up and delivers the power really good but as is the case with pretty much everything, I want more. I dont have a dyno sheet in front of me so Im going of my limited memory here but I am getting full boost (20 psi) around 4700 rpm. Its not bad, but it could be better. Its worth mentioning that I am running a microtech lt-12x for engine managment, custom 3.5" BIC downpipe with a 3.5" BIC thunder cat back, along with 2.5" BIC I/C pipes. I think my first place to look may be my exhaust manifold. Its a ebay special from a few years back. At the time the swap was eating all my money and well, I cheaped out because I was told, "theyll work" and work it has. But now that I want to track my car I want to get everything I can out of it. Lots of other supporting mods anything else that might be important just ask Ill let you know.
I need quicker spool (1JZ) Ideas??
- Thread starter Jayhall
- Start date
QSV with no2 into the turbo inlet to help it spool?
All jokes aside, I do think a QSV and a better manifold with more uniform flow would help pick up a few hundred rpms.
All jokes aside, I do think a QSV and a better manifold with more uniform flow would help pick up a few hundred rpms.
Sp racing f1 manifold and use a s360 with a quick spool valve. That will be my setup soon tho i prolly wont run the qsv. .91 divided housing and divided manifold.
Youtube that and there is a black mk3 with 1jz. Sounds like a f1 car. Incredible.
Are you running divided or open currently and what size exhaust housing?
Youtube that and there is a black mk3 with 1jz. Sounds like a f1 car. Incredible.
Are you running divided or open currently and what size exhaust housing?
E85 is a very expensive change as we dont have it here in Canada. As for exhaust housing size, I cant recall off the top of my head. Ill have to dig that info up and get back to you guys. I have heard of quick spool valves, I dont know much about them but I happen to have my google fingers locked and loaded. I like the sounds of having my car sound like a F1 car though. Does that makes chicks panties wet?? I can only imagine it would.
Radial, I have already bought my new turbo and I do not plan on replacing it until it no longer spins. It may not be the best, but its good and its what Ive got. Just looking to improve what Ive got.
Edit: The turbo has got a 91 turbine housing with a clipped wheel
Radial, I have already bought my new turbo and I do not plan on replacing it until it no longer spins. It may not be the best, but its good and its what Ive got. Just looking to improve what Ive got.
Edit: The turbo has got a 91 turbine housing with a clipped wheel
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Get a quick spool valve. It can increase spool time by like 500 rpm or so.
Non divided manifold and divided turbo.
Non divided manifold and divided turbo.
oh yea sorry. Im pretty sure I have a divided manifold, but I dont think the turbo is divided. I know Bill very well, saw him at a cafe in Langley saturday. Bills a great guy and a great tuner but I have been having ForceFed tune my car. From what you guys are telling me a QSV and a manifold are going to get me where I want to be. Am I crazy to assume that the SP manifold is an equal length manifold?
Get a 2JZ GE block...... More power,more torque,faster spool,bolts up to what you already have.
Problem solved. (you can thank me later)
PS... if you already have a divided manifold get a divided housing for that turbo.
Problem solved. (you can thank me later)
PS... if you already have a divided manifold get a divided housing for that turbo.
You really have 3 options:
Increase your compression
Get a turbo with a smaller exhaust .ar
Use a QSV on a divided manifold.
Increase your compression
Get a turbo with a smaller exhaust .ar
Use a QSV on a divided manifold.
I was thinking about doing cams and an intake next winter. I think a new exhaust housing (smaller and divided) along with a QSV will also get added to that list. Once my brakes and suspension are done Ill start shopping. As much as Id like to increase compression, I dont think pulling the motor is in my near future. Maybe in time 1.5J might be an option
QSV will not work with a Divided manifold.... where would the exhaust gas from 1-3 or 4-6 go when one runner into the turbo is blocked, and WG shut? It will only fuck up everything.
The QSV is intended to be used on a NON-divided manifold...with a divided turbo.
QSV has one of the ports into the turbo closed, forcing all the exhaust gases from all cylinders into one runner on the turbo. A/R is then practically half of the std value..... and low A/R means good spool (but stops power).
So when you reach a desired turbo pressure, QSV opens and you have the full potential of the turbo ready, fully spooled (A/R back to normal).
If you want to keep your S300 and manifold, Then go get that Divided housing to the S300. There are up to 15-20% gains in spool, power, backpressure etc with divided... practically there are gains everywhere with divided housings (But they are a bit more expensive), you cant go wrong unless you choose some stupid A/R's
The QSV is intended to be used on a NON-divided manifold...with a divided turbo.
QSV has one of the ports into the turbo closed, forcing all the exhaust gases from all cylinders into one runner on the turbo. A/R is then practically half of the std value..... and low A/R means good spool (but stops power).
So when you reach a desired turbo pressure, QSV opens and you have the full potential of the turbo ready, fully spooled (A/R back to normal).
If you want to keep your S300 and manifold, Then go get that Divided housing to the S300. There are up to 15-20% gains in spool, power, backpressure etc with divided... practically there are gains everywhere with divided housings (But they are a bit more expensive), you cant go wrong unless you choose some stupid A/R's
From sp directly.
QSV FAQ:
What is the Quick Spool Valve?
The QSV essentially creates a variable turbine housing A/R size by blocking off one side of a divided turbine housing before boost pressure opens the butterfly valve to allow the full size of the housing's A/R. This increases velocity in the lower RPM's and allows all of the top end flow as when the QSV was not in place. The best way to visualize the QSV working is to think of what happens when you place your thumb over the opening of a garden hose. The water now flowing much faster and farther is exactly what's happening to the exhaust gasses in your engine as they are directed through the turbine wheel.
What do I need to use the QSV?
You need both a divided turbine housing and an UNdivided exhaust manifold. This is so the exhaust pulses are able to collect into the smaller opening (that is the one sid of the divided turbine housing) to allow the velocity effect to occur before boost pressure allows the butterfly valve to open.
Will the QSV impede the top end flow and lose peak HP?
NO!!! We purposely oversized the QSV's butterfly valve to be sure that there are NO top end losses even in the large T6 applications.
Why can I NOT use the QSV as a replacement T3/T4/T6 flange when building my manifold?
Each QSV's butterfly valve is machined to very specific measurements, with every blank T3/T4/T6 flange being ever so slightly different (thousands of an inch difference) that requires each blank flange to have it's own respective butterfly valve machined for it to accomodate it's specific needed dimensions.
Welding requires tremendous amounts of heat which stainless steel (QSV construction fully of stainless steel) warps a large amount. If the QSV's flange is used in place of a standard manifold's T3/T4/T6 flange, it must be welded to the collector which as mentioned will cause the flange to warp required extensive effort to properly deck it for a flat surface (ensuring a proper seal).
Welding a stainless flange will also warp the dimensions of the openings of the divided flange. This means that the butterfly valve cannot be machined prior to fabricating the manifold as the dimensions of the flange will change during welding, leading to a butterfly valve that no longer fits where it once did. If the butterfly valve is machined after fabricating the manifold, the machine shop now has to work with a bulky and inconvenient manifold in the way.
Using the QSV in place of a traditional manifold flange also provides that in the event of any possible damage to the QSV, the product becomes less servicable.
Why can I NOT run unregulated air pressure through the QSV's Actuator?
These actuators are an off-the-shelf Garrett unit designed for internally wastegated turbos. They are able to see around 40-50psi regularly. However, do not, repeat DO NOT run shop air directly through the actuator. You can damage the diaphram and pop off the top of the actuator. These are $89 to replace so please be aware of this.
If you plan to run 50+psi on a regular basis (this mainly applied to diesel applications), we recommend that you tie in a boost regulator so that the actuator doesn't see more than the recommended pressure levels.
What will happen if I don't use anything to control my QSV?
Nothing! The wastegate will operate solely off of positive boost from the turbo (just like operating a turbo off the wastegate without a boost controller).
The QSV's wastegate actuator will begin to open at 5.5psi and will be fully open at 9psi due to the throw of the actuator arm and the articulation of the QSV's butterfly valve.
We normally use a Mac valve (for standalones) or Mac Valve and Hobbs Switch (for piggybacks) to delay the opening of the QSV to take full advantage of the QSV's velocity effect.
Do I need the Mac switching valve solenoid or the Hobbs switch and Mac Valve to control my QSV?
The Mac valve is what does all the work to delay the QSV. The only reason you'd need the Hobbs switch in addition to the Mac valve is if your engine management system does not have an auxiliary input.
Mac Valve is used alone in standalone applications (AEM, ProEFI, MoTeC, etc) which have an auxiliary output to activate the valve. Some piggybacks (such as the Apex'i AFC Neo have auxiliary inputs) but this is not the case most of the time.
Mac Valve & Hobbs Switch is used in piggyback applications (Apex'i SAFC, flash tuners, Factory ECU reflashes, etc.) where there are no options for an auxiliary output.
How can I determine when I want my QSV to open?
The dyno is the best place to determine the optimal operation of the QSV. We lock the QSV closed with regulated aiur pressure (do NOT overpressurize. See the rest of this FAQ for further details) and find when the closed QSV is becoming power obstruction which basically means when the power in the mid-range is falling off. This will generally give you a good idea of where your setup likes the QSV to be opened.
Can I open the QSV earlier than 9psi?
NO!! The actuator must see the minimum boost level to open. It will take at least 5.5psi to crack the butterfly valve open. I can NOT be opened any earlier just like how a turbo setup can't make any less boost than the wastegate spring will allow.
QSV FAQ:
What is the Quick Spool Valve?
The QSV essentially creates a variable turbine housing A/R size by blocking off one side of a divided turbine housing before boost pressure opens the butterfly valve to allow the full size of the housing's A/R. This increases velocity in the lower RPM's and allows all of the top end flow as when the QSV was not in place. The best way to visualize the QSV working is to think of what happens when you place your thumb over the opening of a garden hose. The water now flowing much faster and farther is exactly what's happening to the exhaust gasses in your engine as they are directed through the turbine wheel.
What do I need to use the QSV?
You need both a divided turbine housing and an UNdivided exhaust manifold. This is so the exhaust pulses are able to collect into the smaller opening (that is the one sid of the divided turbine housing) to allow the velocity effect to occur before boost pressure allows the butterfly valve to open.
Will the QSV impede the top end flow and lose peak HP?
NO!!! We purposely oversized the QSV's butterfly valve to be sure that there are NO top end losses even in the large T6 applications.
Why can I NOT use the QSV as a replacement T3/T4/T6 flange when building my manifold?
Each QSV's butterfly valve is machined to very specific measurements, with every blank T3/T4/T6 flange being ever so slightly different (thousands of an inch difference) that requires each blank flange to have it's own respective butterfly valve machined for it to accomodate it's specific needed dimensions.
Welding requires tremendous amounts of heat which stainless steel (QSV construction fully of stainless steel) warps a large amount. If the QSV's flange is used in place of a standard manifold's T3/T4/T6 flange, it must be welded to the collector which as mentioned will cause the flange to warp required extensive effort to properly deck it for a flat surface (ensuring a proper seal).
Welding a stainless flange will also warp the dimensions of the openings of the divided flange. This means that the butterfly valve cannot be machined prior to fabricating the manifold as the dimensions of the flange will change during welding, leading to a butterfly valve that no longer fits where it once did. If the butterfly valve is machined after fabricating the manifold, the machine shop now has to work with a bulky and inconvenient manifold in the way.
Using the QSV in place of a traditional manifold flange also provides that in the event of any possible damage to the QSV, the product becomes less servicable.
Why can I NOT run unregulated air pressure through the QSV's Actuator?
These actuators are an off-the-shelf Garrett unit designed for internally wastegated turbos. They are able to see around 40-50psi regularly. However, do not, repeat DO NOT run shop air directly through the actuator. You can damage the diaphram and pop off the top of the actuator. These are $89 to replace so please be aware of this.
If you plan to run 50+psi on a regular basis (this mainly applied to diesel applications), we recommend that you tie in a boost regulator so that the actuator doesn't see more than the recommended pressure levels.
What will happen if I don't use anything to control my QSV?
Nothing! The wastegate will operate solely off of positive boost from the turbo (just like operating a turbo off the wastegate without a boost controller).
The QSV's wastegate actuator will begin to open at 5.5psi and will be fully open at 9psi due to the throw of the actuator arm and the articulation of the QSV's butterfly valve.
We normally use a Mac valve (for standalones) or Mac Valve and Hobbs Switch (for piggybacks) to delay the opening of the QSV to take full advantage of the QSV's velocity effect.
Do I need the Mac switching valve solenoid or the Hobbs switch and Mac Valve to control my QSV?
The Mac valve is what does all the work to delay the QSV. The only reason you'd need the Hobbs switch in addition to the Mac valve is if your engine management system does not have an auxiliary input.
Mac Valve is used alone in standalone applications (AEM, ProEFI, MoTeC, etc) which have an auxiliary output to activate the valve. Some piggybacks (such as the Apex'i AFC Neo have auxiliary inputs) but this is not the case most of the time.
Mac Valve & Hobbs Switch is used in piggyback applications (Apex'i SAFC, flash tuners, Factory ECU reflashes, etc.) where there are no options for an auxiliary output.
How can I determine when I want my QSV to open?
The dyno is the best place to determine the optimal operation of the QSV. We lock the QSV closed with regulated aiur pressure (do NOT overpressurize. See the rest of this FAQ for further details) and find when the closed QSV is becoming power obstruction which basically means when the power in the mid-range is falling off. This will generally give you a good idea of where your setup likes the QSV to be opened.
Can I open the QSV earlier than 9psi?
NO!! The actuator must see the minimum boost level to open. It will take at least 5.5psi to crack the butterfly valve open. I can NOT be opened any earlier just like how a turbo setup can't make any less boost than the wastegate spring will allow.
