I need advice about a persistant miss

frank

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Jan 2, 2006
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1990 Supra Turbo, stock.
It has a miss off idle. It idles perfectly smooth, and it seems to pull smooth under load, but it has a miss when driving at a steady speed with light to moderate throttle. This problem has worsened over time.
This miss is also very apparent when free reving the engine, it starts to miss just off idle, and appears worst at about 2000 rpm. (The engine actually shakes at around 2000 rpm when free reving it.)
What I've done so far:
Replaced every vacuum line that looked at all suspect, replaced accordion hose, replaced all PCV hoses, replaced all Bypass Valve hoses, cleaned throttle body and PCV orifice, set up TPS, checked valve clearances, checked coil pack resistances, checked O2 sensor as per TSRM, checked timing, (10 degrees) checked cam timing, new NGK 8mm wires, (loomed nicely in clips, instead of laying in the valley like spaghetti) new NGK BCPR6EGP plugs. Probably some other stuff I'm forgetting at the moment.
All this has improved the problem, but not gotten rid of it.

I had a tough time with the TPS, but eventually got it set, however the resistance change is not linear, the resistance jumps around as you move the throttle, rather than steadily rising to infinity. Is this normal?

The O2 sensor made from 9 to 12 cross counts in ten seconds (I tested several times) but it was erratic, it would cross count a few times, then pause a couple of seconds, then cross-count several more times rapidly.
Is this normal?

The old plugs were very dark, not quite black and sooty, but quite dark brown. They were BCPR5EP, one range hot, which makes me think the PO might have been having issues with it.

For lack of other ideas I pulled the PCV hose off, creating a large leak of unmetered air. The miss disappeared like magic.

So my question is, where is the next logical place to look for the problem?

Edit: sorry, should have mentioned, no codes, none.
Edit II: another detail that slipped my mind, this happens only with the engine at operating temperature, for the first few minutes until it warms up, no miss.

Solution: Two problems.
One: the tube from the EGR to the vacuum modulator was plugged with carbon. This may have meant that when the exhaust pressure signal got to the modulator it tended to keep it pressurized. In any case I cleaned it out nicely with carb cleaner and a wire.
Two: more of the idiot PO's work. The modulator was plumbed backwards. The modulator has a dump built into it with a little filter that should be cleaned occasionally. The filter is under a snap-off snap-on cap on the valve. The cap has the port labels, "P" & "Q" on it. The cap will snap back onto the body either way, but the labels only be right one way. See where I'm going with this? Result, the engine tended to suck a little unmetered air from time to time, but more importantly the EGR could not dump it's vacuum properly.

I took the EGR valve off to do the cleaning, not something I would recommend to anyone, unless you have hands and arms much smaller than mine and like having your patience tested.
 
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Bishop92t

Supramania Contributor
Apr 18, 2005
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Fuel filter needs replacing, intake manifold/throttle body gaskets need replacing, EGR disable (for testing), check CPS timing. Few things off the top of my head.
 

frank

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Jan 2, 2006
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No idea when the fuel injectors have been cleaned. Not since I've had the car (few months). There is a bill in the collection from the PO for injector O-rings, so I'm guessing they were out relatively recently.
CPS, I have two, car behaves the same with either one, and I don't find any problem with the engine harness leading to the CPS.

Bishop, as stated in my post timing is set to 10 BTD, and I checked that the cams were opening the valves at the right places in relation to the crank. You say to check CPS timing, is there some further step I'm missing?
I thought of fuel filter, but given that this is not a full load problem, but a light load problem I assumed that plugged filter/low fuel pressure were not likely causes. Am I wrong?
I will check the EGR system. My assumption was that an EGR problem would manifest as bad idle as well.
I tried checking the manifold gaskets and so on with propane, didn't find any leaks, however they are probably worth changing as you say. I'm going to test for boost leaks this coming week, (a visual inspection hasn't revealed anything obvious) I just have to round up a regulator so that I do not blow up my intake with shop air!

The part that puzzles me is the problem going away when I introduce an unmetered intake leak. This indicates overfueling, does it not?
 

lagged

1991 1JZ
Mar 30, 2005
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+1 for the great question. you were sure to include important details making the task of giving you advice that must easier. more people should post questions the way you do.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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I had a tough time with the TPS, but eventually got it set, however the resistance change is not linear, the resistance jumps around as you move the throttle, rather than steadily rising to infinity. Is this normal?
It sure isn't normal.

Another way is to check the voltage output and make sure it rises smoothly.

Leaking EGR will cause a no load or small load miss. But I would look at a lean miss under light load first.
 

frank

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Jan 2, 2006
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lagged said:
+1 for the great question. you were sure to include important details making the task of giving you advice that must easier. more people should post questions the way you do.

Thanks for the compliment. Making people ramble around in the dark and fish for information that should have been in a post to start with is just wasting their time. (and the person with the problem's time as well)

Bishop92t said:
Fuel filter needs replacing, intake manifold/throttle body gaskets need replacing, EGR disable (for testing), check CPS timing. Few things off the top of my head.

EGR for the win!:icon_bigg
Thank you very much! I disconnected and plugged the EGR vacuum, drove it, no problem. Hooked the EGR back up, no problem. Hmmm?
Took it out this morning, started missing, pulled over, disconnected and plugged EGR, miss gone.
Now I have to test components, although I have a hunch it's something to do with the vacuum modulator. We'll see I guess.
 

frank

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Jan 2, 2006
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Not sure. I'm thinking it's the modulater (I hope that's what it's called, the little component mounted right above the EGR) but the problem may be the VSV, or something else. Testing as per TSRM should tell the tale, I hope.
I've been playing with cars for a long time, twenty years now, but I'm afraid I'm used to carbs and a lack of sensors and emmissions components. This car is a steep learning curve for me, my first real foray into EFI and it's attendant electronics and hardware. I am learning, but my head is swimming with component names, functions, acronyms, and test procedures. :icon_conf

I'm going to have to leave the problem alone for a day or so anyway, time to give my poor old jeep CJ7 a new timing chain.
It needs a little loving too, the 7M can't have it all.
 

frank

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Jan 2, 2006
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BC
jetjock said:
I'm guessing Nick wanted to know whether you disconnected the line from the EGR valve or the modulator but I could be wrong.

Ah, I see, thank you.
I disconnected and plugged the line to the modulator. Thanks for the tips about the EGR jetjock.
 
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