is each shim for each hole a different size? I know there are 17 sizes but it SHOULD be standard size for each side right?
I have valve tick, is it shims or guides ?
- Thread starter phoenix6
- Start date
I just read something about too much oil in there will cause a "rapping" noise in engines, I put 5 qts in, and its cold as fuck. It was Fully Syn 10w-30, and there was some leaking out the valve covers. I retightened them and sealed them with some RTV, this noise started right after that! Sound like it? My pressure is around 30ish at idle.
IF its rod knock, would I be able to still get the same power from the engine? And wouldnt I lose idle speed? Its idling almost perfect, a little high bc its cold, but its idling nice and the engine isnt shaking at all like it was when my bearing chunked out. The knck sensor shut it down, its not doing that right now... Im kinda worried though.
God I think Im just gonna give up, I cant figure it out, I hear it from both sides. Its on and off sometimes, if I rev it to around 2k and hold it for a second, it stops and wont do it even during idle, but then I rev it again and there it goes again....
Sometimes it kinda tries to see if its gonna do it or not. tick tick tick tick tick.... tick......tick.........tick tick tick tick tick.............................. tick tick tick, with the rpms.
Sometimes it kinda tries to see if its gonna do it or not. tick tick tick tick tick.... tick......tick.........tick tick tick tick tick.............................. tick tick tick, with the rpms.
added some marvel mystery oil to it, had 5 qts of oil, well, that tick was on and off, then it kinda mostly went away, then I test drove it down my street. Came back, Got home, turned it off, turned it BACK on again and it was gone again. Only problem now, theres this damn whiney noise that sounds like a WHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA, is that from too much fluid in my crankcase since the mnarvel shits in there WITH a full case of oil?
donnys90T said:
Who the hell are u anyways? twice youve come in here to insult my posts, either help out or just leave shit to yourself, 22 posts and already talkin shit man. Come on, were a helpful community here, not shit talkers upon other peoples problems.
He's got a point. Your wearing people down, since the car drives, take it to a mechanic who is trained to figure out what is wrong. No offense, but this thread is like a dog trying to chase his tail. GL man.
Yep...and I tried to help you man. It's kinda hard to help when you won't do the things that were suggested...earlier in this thread and in other threads. You're going to have to dig some info out of the TRSM yourself...the guys on this forum are only willing to spoon feed you so much.
This motor is not going to allow the easy way out...you need to understand that. If you don't get that marvel crap out and put the correct amount of oil in...you will kill that motor and soon.
This motor is not going to allow the easy way out...you need to understand that. If you don't get that marvel crap out and put the correct amount of oil in...you will kill that motor and soon.
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The best thing to do is to park it, drain all the oil out, put the correct amount in. Buy the micrometer, and start checking clearances. I've never heard of a product that magically fixes valvetrain problems...
I corrected it, Im calm now. Im doing another oil change tomorrow. Oil pressure is fine, oil level is fine. The whinging was the power steering since I put power steering fluid in and now ATF Dextron. I got it all figured out now, for 99.9% of the time the ticking is gone too, Im gonna have it looked at sometime next week. It drives though....the RPMs kinda drop when I turn the wheels while the car is stopped, but it drove and turned fine, I thik it was just bleeding air out.
I do have a small question though this would be any car question. If the 02 sensor is BAD what will the car do thats abnormal?
I do have a small question though this would be any car question. If the 02 sensor is BAD what will the car do thats abnormal?
phoenix6 said:
Do you see anyone helping you? Wonder why?
I'm someone like clifftrail who has the balls to point out you haven't a clue as to what you're doing. I've no doubt there are many here who feel the same way. From other posts it's obvious you've never known what you're doing. Whose fault is that? Mine?
If you want to avoid further grief stop right now and take the car to someone who does know what they're doing. I'd call that helpful even if you're unwilling to accept it.
donnys90T said:
alright, no I didnt know what I was doing, Im hands on learner. I ask alot of questions to learn, and guess what, I figured it all out. Most of it anyways, I really only have small questions left now, its fine.
Youre probably right, I dont know what Im doing, but I dont have time or money to bring it to anyone else. And I learned alot man, ALOT from all of this. The fact that 6 months ago I barely knew how an engine worked and to now, removing it and getting it to even start the first few tries I think is worth something. Im not asking for credit here, if no one wants to answer anymore questions its ok, I understand I went way off with it, but I do thank everyone for EVERTHING so far.
Jon, I applaud your efforts in trying to learn but asking a guy what page something is on shows you need to work harder. Also some things just aren't conducive to hands on learning. I'll further point out building an engine and having it last any appreciable time are completely different things.
If the O2 sensor isn't working the engine will not run in closed loop fuel control. In most cars, including this one, it'll run slightly rich because the ecu is programmed to make that happen. Fuel economy will be down and power will be slightly up. Emissions and deposits will also be up. You'll also get one of several codes.
If the O2 sensor isn't working the engine will not run in closed loop fuel control. In most cars, including this one, it'll run slightly rich because the ecu is programmed to make that happen. Fuel economy will be down and power will be slightly up. Emissions and deposits will also be up. You'll also get one of several codes.
donnys90T said:
Ahh, well my idle is kinda high, around 950 - 1000 on start and after driving a little while its arouns 1100.
Its running really rich too, idle is rough, not extremely at all, just a little rough.
I ONLY asked the page bc I was too lazy to look just that min, I really am smarter than that, honestly dont look into that one post too far.
Jon - read this post...you have a high idle problem:
http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=876
http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=876
Take the advice given. Drain the oil soon as this needs to be done any time an engine is newly built. Then set the valve clearances and repair any other mechanical issues before even trying to tackle idle and EFI probelms. Also verify ignition timing is correct. Check for codes. Then repair the O2 problem. Read your manual about checking the O2 sensor voltage. Also read about Vf voltage. It can be very helpful because it tells you what the computer is trying to do. You'll need a volt meter to do these things. Only after all this is checked can you deal with idle problems. One step at a time. The only way you're going to get through this is if you listen to what people say AND make an effort to study the manual yourself.
jdub said:
Thanks J, I do need to look at some of that although after reading it I think I know my problem. I do have a hose plugged off that goes to the BVSV, and also, when we timed it, the E and T1 spots were not connected by a paperclip or at all. I forgot about those but I did have the idle at 750 when it was set at 10*. Ill figure it out, thanks guys.
Also, the tick went away 99.9%, after I change my oil again tomorrow, Ill look into it again and see if it comes back, if it does, Ill have someone I know come check it out.
bigaaron said:
Lol, probably, Almost there guys, I can feel it. It did feel great when I drove it around my neighborhood, felt great.