jeez...that sucks dude... IIRC, won't the turbo glow, and you will backfire if the car is running really rich? Would that explain the code 21?
I have a GTE RIDDLE for you pros
- Thread starter ericshere03
- Start date
IJ. said:
I did that with the belt installed, my car doesnt have the belt cover so it was easy, but the teeth liik fine however the belt looks warn and feels kinda gummy, infact there is a gummy residue on my pullies. Which makes me think if this damn belt is deteriorating why cant is streach... does that sound logical?
Would tapping into my o2 sensor with an AF guage wouk well enough to diagnose a lean or rich condition? i was going to save for a widband, but i need answers now...lol.
N
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IJ. said:
FnA... i was so happy when i found something wrong, thats why may favorite car, and longest lasting car had carbs.
Ill keep pondering and digging, eventually something will show up... BTW if i have good compression, ignition and valve timing are correct, and fuel preassure is adequate, anyother problem would be electrical right (ecu, injectors, sensors, ect), i want to eliminate all mechanical possibilities, and presure heavly into the electrical aspect. I am trying to find data on this damn ecu, i can use my multimeter and from the ECU chech all of the input and output signals, ive done this on my 280zx-t, it was fairly easy and worked. the TSRM really isnt that detailed it focuses more on the self diagnostic, and the manual testing is more ballpark, as opposed the the datsun service manual had graphs as to what each sensor will read at a specific temp or whatever. anyways.
Thanks everyone for your input, everyone has contributed in my brainstorming and diagnostics.
ericshere03 said:
My 87 TT did the same thing - I turned out the AFM was bad and the fuel
filter was cloged causeing a very lean condition. After a very short drive the
turbo was glowing red--
johnathan1 said:
Like Wayne said, it's a lean condition. The exhaust is way, way too hot. If the engine were running pig rich, the exhaust probably wouldn't be hot enough to make the mani/turbo glow.
About the turbo glowing red...I thought I had heard somewhere before that if the engine was running excessively rich, it would cause the exhaust gas temps to raise to point of the turbo glowing red, I guess i misunderstood. Lean does make more sense.
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NDBoost
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excessively rich=cooler egt. the fuel cools the exhaust. If its really rich what makes you think that it will ignite in the turbine? theres no extra air in there to make it ignite. The fuel will not ignite without oxygen. When you run rich, you burn all the air that comes in. When you run lean, theres alot of air left over
this is the principle that your 02 sensor works on. it takes the difference of potentials between ambient air and the air that collects around your sensor from the exhaust and creates a voltage ( or resistance depending on type of sensor)
So if the exhaust elbow is red hot, id point towards running more lean than rich. its likely that theres a restriction in the exhaust as well. Why not fix the problem with that exhaust leak before doing any further diagnosis.
this is the principle that your 02 sensor works on. it takes the difference of potentials between ambient air and the air that collects around your sensor from the exhaust and creates a voltage ( or resistance depending on type of sensor)
So if the exhaust elbow is red hot, id point towards running more lean than rich. its likely that theres a restriction in the exhaust as well. Why not fix the problem with that exhaust leak before doing any further diagnosis.
What id i was running a generic GM o2 sensor, coud there be an incombatibility? i was reading somewhere that there are 2 terminals on the DIAGNOSTIC box that will read the o2 signals, and spit out the ecu fuel compensation so you can see if the car is leaning for no reason or whatever.
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NDBoost
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you werent using a GM o2 sensor eric. You were using a OEM DENSO o2 sensor w/ a GM weatherpack connector that was spliced into it because the harness connector broke requiring a rewire and new connector.
that o2 sensor was for a supra.
that o2 sensor was for a supra.
Can't say I have ever seen damage with a 1/4 drive extension, but the hose might bend without coming out.IJ. said:ND: Much less risk of damage with a hose
Nick: Ideal situation is a longshaft dial indicator on a Mag base.
Hose is rough and ready (you're just using it to verify the notch on the damper hasn't slipped) and as I said less chance of damage, using an extension is fine but what happens if you get the fumbles and drop it back onto the piston crown as you're finishing up?
(falls into the "shit happens" category)
Hose is rough and ready (you're just using it to verify the notch on the damper hasn't slipped) and as I said less chance of damage, using an extension is fine but what happens if you get the fumbles and drop it back onto the piston crown as you're finishing up?
(falls into the "shit happens" category)
Yes, dial gauge, with the head off even better. But he isn't in that position. If it is plastic hose and not rubber, I suppose it can work.
That has to be one heavy 1/4 drive extension to do damage from a 2 inch fall. As long as it works, and nothing is f-ed up.
That has to be one heavy 1/4 drive extension to do damage from a 2 inch fall. As long as it works, and nothing is f-ed up.
Nick: The coatings I use on the crowns are easily damaged so I guess I'm a little paranoid
the rubber hose won't bend as you're only dropping 1>2" onto the crown then bring #1 to TDC (no need for a full rotation)
the rubber hose won't bend as you're only dropping 1>2" onto the crown then bring #1 to TDC (no need for a full rotation)