I have a GTE RIDDLE for you pros

ericshere03

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
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What could cause your turbo and manifold to glow red after an easy drive (hard drive dosent make a difference)?

Hints:
3in full exhaust using crappy elbow

Apexi Power intake

ran like a dog..smooth but no power, a new TPS fixed that.

AFM was taken from a friends car that used to run (RK)

idels at 600-700 and about 900 with AC on

low end power sucks (but its a supra im told)

With ac launching from 2-2.5k necessary

power and response is great from 3+k rpm

engine temp is great

new intake gaskets on the entire side BUT......

Only pulling 10-12 negative on my autometer guage

if i plug ISC car chokes and dies, i dont know anout supras but i thought the throttle body is adjusted for a certian idle and ISC jus finly tunes it...IDK

small exhaust leak, farts alittle between turbo and manifold (will fix later)

get around 16MPG city using AC occasionally

when decelerating it gurgles under 1500RPM to idle

if decelerating from higher RPM usually backfires, sometimes just random

Timing WITH diagnostic block jumpered is at ~10

According to the timing marks at TDC the cams both point up at the mark

all boost leaks were fixed

idels smooth

when driving around and in a low gear i hear a bit of gurgeling in the exhaust around 2k RPM

car is all stock minus intake and exhaust.

Car holds 40PSI fuel and nothing leaks, takes maybe 1hr to relieve all of the preassure

OH! and throws code 21, driving with no O2 sensor maked the same reasults, but im going to fix the code 21 tomorrow, and will report reasults

Id really like to figure this car out, it drives fine minus occasional backfiring and sligish below 1500RPM, i just dont want to melt my head, burn valves, detonate, or melt a piston. i would thing this is related to fuel delivery, i cant see anything else doing this. Maybe the Vac levels have something to do with it, like i said i pull 10-12 fluctuates sometimes lower never higher that 12 unless decellerating. Im going to block off all the vac connections to the manifold and onlt install a vac?boost guage under the hood and see if that helps.

I know its long, but if any of you guys get a chance LMK, im out of ideas
 

ericshere03

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
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Phoenix, AZ
IJ. said:
Blocked Cat

Retarded timing from a false TDC caused by a slipped balancer

burnt/tight valves

First off Yellow 13, im new and know what you mean...lol

IJ Thanks, I never thought if the idea of the pully slipping, i need to do the belt anyway, that i will check. but if its off wont i see crappy idle? One think now that i think of it, it seems like my idle gets better the more retard i go (ignition timing), is this normal, if i remember correctly i was around 20 and my idle was higher and smother, then agian that was after a ECU reset. Is it common for the pully to slip? also the motor has around 90k miles on it so i doubt the valves are tight, in fact they make little cliticky sounds so i dont think their being held open but a little worn, but i will definatly run a compression check. also i dont have a cat, i borrowed a friends turbo too, mine felt a little tight his was had less resistance, and drives better too, but turbo is still red.

UHH so many things to do :)
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Eric: Grab a piece of vacc hose about 10" long pull #1 plug put the hose in the plug hole then turn the crank and watch the hose when it stops coming up is the real TDC, once there have a look at the timing mark to confirm if it's correct.
 

ericshere03

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
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suprahero said:
^^He's so freaking smart. I wouldn't be able to live with myself.............lol

I almost did when i figured id have to remove the pully and check that way...see you saved 2 lives and maybe a supra.
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
that hose idea is pure genious. You could probably use a long pole or screw driver as well.


Eric,
ill help you fix it if the works done at my house lol.. i dont like your garage setup, theres no good light and less tools @ your place lol
 

hawk

save me from my camry!
Jul 19, 2005
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IJ. said:
ND: Much less risk of damage with a hose ;)

i concour, any hard itemthat might cause a surface irregularity can create hot spots on the surface of the piston, thus creating detonation. and we all know detonation=bad
 

ericshere03

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
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Phoenix, AZ
IJ. said:
ND: Much less risk of damage with a hose ;)

Now you tell me!!! i used a 1/4 drive 6in extension.JK :icon_conf

Anyway I found out my belt somehow slipped a tooth, so i guess the valves are opening a bit early and allowing the fiery hell of the 7m to escape into my manifold and turbo....Time to drive 'Ol faithful...The DATSUN 240z. I ordered a new tensio and a greddy belt, in the meant time ill swap the belt back and see what happens. WISH ME LUCK PEOPLE!!!! :1zhelp:
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
hate to be all anti happyness but.. $5 says soemthing else is wrong with the car thats helping cause it to run like shite... just a hunch
 

supra90turbo

shaeff is FTMFW!
Mar 30, 2005
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^ atta boy. Let's not only deny the fact that that's the problem, but put e-money on it. bravo....

You don't think the timing being off a tooth is the problem?
 
N

NDBoost

Guest
no i just think there is something else besides that thats causing issues as well.
Would his timing off explain the 10psi vac @ idle? Hes taken the car to a dealer and they have told him his TPS is blown. Got a nwe one of those, come to find out after the turbo is blown, come to find out after that hes got a boost leak (fixed, still 10psi vac), and now its his timing belt.

I hope its just the timing belt, its about damn time this car runs right. Hasn't since he bought it.
 

ericshere03

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
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Phoenix, AZ
NDBoost said:
no i just think there is something else besides that thats causing issues as well.
Would his timing off explain the 10psi vac @ idle? Hes taken the car to a dealer and they have told him his TPS is blown. Got a nwe one of those, come to find out after the turbo is blown, come to find out after that hes got a boost leak (fixed, still 10psi vac), and now its his timing belt.

I hope its just the timing belt, its about damn time this car runs right. Hasn't since he bought it.

YES, my valves are closing too early and open too early. so the engine isnt sucking in all of the air is it supposed to, also the exhaust is evacuating early, which means the gas may not be fully burned before it hits my manifold, which explains the redness. nut there is definatly an issue that most definatly needs to be fixed asap, in fact today ill adjust the crap belt i have, i ordered a new pully and greddy belt.

I was very excited seeing this because so far there has been NOTHING wrong with this car, execpt the damn TPS and still ran about the same, thoes are the issues that are really hard to diagnose, only wierd thing is i checked the pullys when i first bought it and didnt notice it being off 1 tooth but it was slightly off, i guess i was really off cuz i dont think i can be 1 tooth off...CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG
 

ericshere03

New Member
Apr 17, 2006
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Phoenix, AZ
Well i go to fix the car today and line crank to TDC and looks like the cms line up....WTF....i coulda swarn that yesterday it was 1 tooth off, now i pissed agian because im back to not know what the hell is going on. I feel like pulling the motor rebuilding buying a new harnedd a new or refurb ECU and all new sensors and call it a new car., that is if i had the dough, kinda sucks cuz i bought a greddy belt and new tensioner. if you have any ideas, keep feeding me, i WILL TRY THEM