I feel like an idiot for asking this...

[Koenigturbo]

I feel like an idiot for asking but, Is it possible to change the oil in the clutch fan?

 

[Keros]

For the Diff I'm planning on Redline once again, but which viscosity would be what I'm looking for? 75W-90 GL5? I've also got the stock Torsen LSD, would a friction modifier need to be added? If so, how much?

Torsen differentials don't function using friction, they use gears. No friction modifier required, as far as I know.

On the topic of oil, have you ever tried to top up 5w-30 at -25C? It's like molassass. I bet 10w wouldn't even leave the bottle... just hang there in it's frozen, thick oozeiness.

Not a big deal if you don't winter drive it.

 

[hvyman]

Correct, it is labeled in North America as Castrol Syntec 0W30 european formula, and it will say made in germany on the back. The oil itself will be either green (older) or red (newer) color. They are both good and it is ok to mix the two.

never seen the red stuff just the gold and green.

 

[GrimJack]

The stuff at Canadian tire is German Castrol. Or at least it is on the west coast, I've bought a fair amount from them.

It is possible to change the oil in the fan clutch. I've never done it myself, however I recall it being mentioned several times either here or on the old SOGI list.

 

[lewis15498]

never seen the red stuff just the gold and green.

Your right, its green and gold, IDK what I was thinking about when I posted.

 

[jdub]

I feel like an idiot for asking but, Is it possible to change the oil in the clutch fan?

Yes and it costs under $10.

1) Remove clutch and inspect the bearing. If it's shot you can't go any further. Shaft/flange wobble means a new clutch because the bearing is not easily serviceable. Fwiw a bad clutch bearing can quickly kill a water pump and vice versa. It's why they're usually replaced together.

2) Remove screws holding clutch halves together. They can be tight. Separate the halves being careful not to damage the O ring. There aren't any springs or small parts that'll come flying out so don't worry about it.

3) Drain what remains of the old fluid and clean. There aren't many solvents that cut silicone oil well but do what you can.

4) Inspect the control valve. It's a metal strip that uncovers two ports as the thermostatic coil twists the shaft it's on. A simply device really. If you want to test it place the half with the coil down in a pan of water with the water just covering the coil but keep the coil off the bottom of the pan. Heat the water while measuring it's temp. The ports should begin to uncover around 160 F and be fully uncovered by 200 F. A little "sticktion" in the mechanism is normal. If the thing needs calibration the holes are elongated. You'll see what I mean when you're in there. You can also heat the coil with a hair dryer just to see if it's working.

5) You'll need 3000 centistoke silicone oil. Get it on ebay or a hobby shop, it's used for RC cars. I like the Mugen brand but any 3000 cst silicone will do. It comes in 50 ml bottles (which is exactly the amount needed) for around 6 bux. Btw don't buy an oil that's sold by "weight", only buy one sold by centistokes. All Japanese RC oil is sold by centistokes, Mugen included. If they don't have 3000 cst buy what thay have and use a viscosity calculator to mix 3000 up. GE Silicones has a nice one on their site but damned if I can find it at the moment. You plug in the centistokes of what you have and what you want and it coughs up the percentages to mix. I'll keep looking for it and edit later.

6) Pour the 50 ml of 3000 cst into the half where reservoir is. Iirc that'll be down behind the coil but it really doesn't matter where it goes as long as you get it all in. Clean then swipe the O ring with a bit of oil and put the thing back together. Torque the screws good. I recommend threadlocker. Inspect and clean fan. Install fan to clutch and install the assembly back onto engine. Be happy.

A few other comments: The clutch is designed to run the fan at about 40% clutch speed at idle to provide cooling at slow speed. It'll drop off as rpm increases and only speed up again as the coil heats up. When in doubt the clutch can be tested on the car as I mentioned earlier.

For the curious some info and specs from Hayden about clutches: http://tinyurl.com/2cceed

Edit: Forgot to mention. The old oil had to get out somewhere right? It's usually through the shaft seal. Some people add a capful of seal sweller to the oil during a refill. Lacquer thinner works. I've used power steering or transmission seal sweller but any similar product will do. Than again I've done clutches without adding anything and they lasted for years so don't fret over it.

Torsen differentials don't function using friction, they use gears. No friction modifier required, as far as I know.

You would be correct...75W or 80W-90, GL-4 or GL-5 will work fine. For a Torsen LSD, I would consider Red Line Heavy ShockProof.

 

[steve1479]

I was waiting for jdub to chime in :biglaugh:.

Just to dispell any rumors, the Castrol Syntec they sell at Canadian Tire is normal Castrol Syntec, HOWEVER, the 0W-30 Castrol Syntec is German Castrol (says Made In Germany right on the back as opposed to the others that say Made In America) The front of the bottle looks identical to the other except where it says 0W-30, it's written in red instead of green. It's also priced at $9.99 a litre :icon_bigg.

I'll be putting it into a 1JZ-GTE that's only run in the summer time so I hope it's not too thin for the motor (considering typicsl temperature / humidity up here I think it will be ok). I also use the NAPA Gold filters because I cannot find WIX or PureOne up here.

Sadly I've found out that very few performance shops up here carry RedLine, only Royal Purple. BUT! My good friends at HPF are able to obtain any fluids I need and ship them over :icon_surp

Thanks again for your guys input and assistance, it's definitely cleared up alot of things for me.

 

[jdub]

I can tell you with 100% certainty that GC is not "thin" at ops temp by any stretch...it's viscosity is higher than just about every other 0W, 5W or 10W-30 on the shelf. I run it in Phoenix AZ...there's not a snowball's chance in hell the summer in Toronto is anywhere near as extreme for the extended periods of time as it is here

Good choice...GC is priced very reasonable for what it is and it's quality.

BTW - A NAPA Gold is a Wix.

 

[steve1479]

I can tell you with 100% certainty that GC is not "thin" at ops temp by any stretch...it's viscosity is higher than just about every other 0W, 5W or 10W-30 on the shelf. I run it in Phoenix AZ...there's not a snowball's chance in hell the summer in Toronto is anywhere near as extreme for the extended periods of time as it is here

Good choice...GC is priced very reasonable for what it is and it's quality.

BTW - A NAPA Gold is a Wix.

Thank you for the vote of confidence jdub, I can't wait to run my baby with this stuff come spring time. I had heard that the Napa Gold, Wix & PureOne filters were essentially the same thing but I wasn't sure so.

Remember though, in Arizona you guys don't have the insane humidity like we do up here, I'd love to live down there where it's hot but not sticky.

 

[Koenigturbo]

J dub,

Thanks for the info on changing the oil for the clutch fan, I honestly didn't think I could do that.
I've learned a lot since I've joined S.M.
Thanks again, sorry thanks as always!!

"K" turbo:icon_bigg

 

[Rajunz]

Steve, you should never feel like an idiot for asking an intelligent question. Props for properly maintaining your MKIII, I'm just saying...............too many just run them into the ground.

 

[steve1479]

Thanks Rajunz, I'm new to the whole 1JZ Supra thing so I'm just trying to see what everyone out there is using and get some input from people who've tried and testing different fluids and who have a "set in stone" fluid for every catagory of their car.